andy-gts

damn......

x98boardwell

Polecat, I have every intention to remove and send to Greg. Further up this thread we thought maybe an inspection of the valve body would be a good first start.

Now that I've uncovered this I will be pulling for sure unless Greg tells me otherwise. I've seen Dean's video and I already made a rolling table that I can move under the lift to allow the trans and other items to rest on during removal so shouldn't be too bad.

Cheers,
Bryan

polecat702

Bryan, cause I have a lift, didn't have to pull the torque tube. Just did every thing Dean described except the torque tube. I have a 3 stage tranny jack and made a copy of the factory trans support plate. Dropped the suspension onto my wheel jacks, raised the car, moved the suspension and axel assembly out of the way and swapped transmissions/ trans axels. I did the entire job by myself. Having a lift makes all the difference. Don't work hard, work smart.

x98boardwell

That's a great idea. I have the rolling wheel dollies that I could rest the wheels on to roll out the assembly so that could be another option. I was thinking of lowering it onto the table, then unbolting and raising car slowly after but I will have to decide which option is best. Thanks for the thoughts.

I already removed the exhaust from the manifolds this evening along with under tray and O2 sensor. I will have to wait to take the entire thing off when I have some help so for now it's resting on a threaded hoist jack stand under the car.

polecat702

Bryan, now is the time, the weather is perfect for working on cars. It hasn't hit the century mark here in Vegas. The wheel dollies make getting the shocks back in place easy, and you can raise and power the car as you please. Those dollies are a God send. I'm an old man, 76 last December, and I hate laying on my back at my age. Getting down is easy, getting back up is a bitch! 76 years of abusing my body comes back real fast.

A professional transmission jack is a must tool! Makes this job a breeze!!!!!

x98boardwell

I was going to drive the car to vegas in 3 weeks, now it will be the 993. We are headed there with 25 exotic cars and staying at the Palms. Should be fun!!

Hope to tackle removal of trans this weekend, still waiting to hear from Greg on when he can take it.

GregBBRD

I've got a GT mini stroker to finish up...heads are on and cams are installed....need to do cam timing and entire top. Then I must assemble Tuomo's long awaited transmission (thanks for being so patient), then a stock GTS engine to assemble (all machine work done and ready, then a stock '86.5 engine to assemble (also ready). And then another GTS stroker. I've got a supercharged cluster of a 5.0 to figure out, but the machine work isn't done.

3 weeks.

x98boardwell

Greg, once it's out I'm assuming I can just drop off whenever to get in line?

Everyone, Should I remove/detach the PSD line where the fitting and bracket is on the drivers side (US) of the trans or try and remove the slave cylinder or similar item that terminates at the top of the trans? Seems like detaching/loosening the line at that fitting makes the most sense and just fill and bleed upon reinstall...?

Also, as polecat mentioned above I can take the trans out without the torque tube. My only issue or fear is getting to the rear top bolts of the torque tube while trying to limit how much I lower the trans as not to bend anything before moving it back and off the shaft. Is this a fairly common thing or is removing entire torque tube the best and most wise option? Its seems like those top bolts may be difficult..

Thanks for any help on this!!!
Bryan

polecat702

Bryan, I followed Dean Fuller's tutorial to the letter, except for removing the torque tube. After you drop the suspension the trans will be held by the ratchet strap, till you position the trans jack under the tranny. The trans will lower enough to easily get a socket and universal on the bolt or a gear wrench. Mine just slid off the shaft. I used a block of wood cut to keep the torque in that position so replacing the trans was easy. Another thing, my motor mounts were collapsed, so that prolly gave me some more working room. I replaced them right after we installed the supercharger.

I think most people replace the torque tube bearings as a while you've got the trans out do the bearings in the torque tube also. I didn't do the bearings, cause I was going to wait till Greg rebuilt my original transmission, get one of Greg's drive shafts, and new bearings then.

GregBBRD

Certainly, it can sit here.

I remove the entire PSD slave off of the transmission, with the line attached, remove the steel line with the brackets attached, and leave the entire assembly hanging on the car.
I dislike things that "drool", when they are apart....

x98boardwell

Greg, sounds good. I will go that route, no need to drip... I agree!

Polecat, I have brand new volvo mounts so may not pivot as easy but who knows. Easy to do full torque tube removal as well so I guess I will assess as I go and decide which option I will attempt. Thx for the advice.

x98boardwell

Trans is out and ready for the trip down to Greg.

My PSD actuator looks terrible. Clearly this has never been bleed before. Any others with this experience? Once it's cleaned up would it be okay to use again or buy new before reinstalling into rear diff? Also, when I removed it from the diff it appears to be encased in a rubber boot of some kind. Is there any special attachment for the piston or is just pushed in and that's it...? Thanks for helping.

I removed the trans w/o torque tube but after removed the torque tube as well. IMO after now doing this removal with the torque tube would be much easier and will be the way I reinstall as one unit.

Thanks to all who helped me get to this point, wishing it wasn't the issue after someone rebuilding the trans but clearly they didn't know what they were doing or didn't catch an error during the rebuild. Greg will tell me what happened and what needs to be replaced.

Thanks,
Bryan

x98boardwell

Well, we found out what was wrong. The B1 only has one job... and that's 2nd gear. You will see in the photo that the teflon ring that is a hard (white in color) seal for this was mangled during insertion. This has a special lip on it as well to sit in it's home so should've stayed on but clearly didn't.

Greg mentioned that this can be difficult to install and as you can see by the special tool they used to remove it that's its under quite a bit of force.... so in a shop without this tool or someone that isn't skilled they may not know it was damaged when they built it.

The problem that it caused was for the clutch discs to slip (due to lack of pressure) so all of the clutches and metal rings in that housing for B1 clutch were damaged prematurely and will need to be replaced. Most other items all look good.

I want to thank Greg and his son for taking a few minutes to strip it down so I could see but also to clear his mind as to what could be the cause of my symptoms as mentioned in this thread.

She'll be good as new upon return and also the torque tube and PSD/rear end will be gone through to ensure everything is in good shape.

Cheers,
Bryan

Bertrand Daoust

Thanks for the follow up.

Your transmission is in good hands for sure.

Schocki

Your PSD slave must have been leaking for a long time. The only thing that prevented mixing of brake fluid and diff oil was that extra rubber boot pressed into the diff housing.
I would recommend to replace the complete cylinder. With that amount of gunk in your picture, a simple sealing kit won't do IMHO.

Greg will surely replace the rubber boot in the diff housing after seeing your pictures.