C531XHO

Ok so latest on the S2, I have removed the rear suspension to overhaul but couldn't undo the driveshaft even with max breaker bar and a tube extension. Are air tools the only way to get these suckers off?

FredR

Were you using 3/4 inch square drive socket kit? I assume you are talking about the nut that holds the stub axle in place. My socket set has a hefty steel extensions that worked well- the breaker bar you see in the foreground, although 3/4 inch drive flexed too much for my liking but not so the kit you see mounted. The other factor is to have the car on its wheels, chocked and locked.

SwayBar

Jack the wheel up off the ground.
Attach wrench/breaker bar at 9 or 3 o'clock.
Place jack-stand under breaker bar.
Slowly lower wheel to the ground.

andy-gts

great idea sway bar !!! outside the box thinking

andy-gts

is right and left side different threads ( clockwise vs counter )??

76FJ55

Both side are standard right hand thread. the shafts and huts are interchangeable side to side.

Wisconsin Joe

You might edit your thread title. That's not the drive shaft. Technically, the 928 doesn't even have a drive shaft.

That's an axle or half shaft.

Ok, enough 'get off my lawn' old guy rant.

To answer your specific question:

I did this a couple weeks ago.

Breaker bar on socket on nut. 4 foot pipe on breaker bar. Putting most of my 165# on the pipe just bent the breaker bar enough to scare me.
Sliding the pipe all the way up the breaker bar didn't do anything but torque the joint on the breaker bar. Also scary.

I took a step back and thought about it.
Reset everything so that the socket was properly on the nut.

Got back on the end of the pipe and had a helper hit the socket with a hammer while applying pressure.
Not 'super hard'. I used 'hit the socket like you were hammering a mid-sized nail' to describe what I wanted. It was a 'normal sized' ball peen hammer. Not a big one.

The shock and vibration did the trick. Maybe 10 or 15 hits and it came loose.

Hope this helps.

Edit to add:

I was using a deep well impact socket, and had the wheel off, so the nut was well exposed.
I'm not sure I would try this with a normal socket, and I"m not sure you have a 'good shot' at it with the wheel on.

SteveG

Joe: +1 on the use of correct terms. Helps to have stuff named correctly in general and for future reference. The search engine here is weak at best, you have start with clean material to get anything out of it.

hacker-pschorr

Title updated.

I have one of these, will make short work of that nut, 1,200ft-lbs of breakway torque:
https://www.dewalt.com/products/powe...l-bare/dcf899b

FredR

That will be about 2500 ft lbs of torque

76FJ55

Good idea, but probably easier to just leave the car on the ground and place the jack under the end of the breaker bar.

dr bob

Challenge when lowering the car with a breaker bar on the nut may be... Something to keep the wheel from turning. Maybe a trusted assistant with a foot on the brake will do it.

Use a Large Tool for this. 1/2"-drive pieces are not adequate for the torque required for breakaway. As Fred shows, a 3/4'-drive with a long bar is the right way. I have had a 1/2"-drive bar that's bent an extra 90 degrees, another where the square-drive end has twisted off. Both where I though that a piece of pipe over the handle would add just that little extra leverage needed to get a nut loose on something.

KenRudd

Next, you get to figure out how to torque it back on to specs...339 ft/lbs

FredR

Before releasing humongous amounts of torque on something one really needs to consider what might be bent if for some reason the targetted fastener refuses to let go due to corrosion or whatever. Given that the stock motor turns out around 300 ft lbs of peak torque one has to wonder what 2500 ft lb could do if the stub axle nut did no let go- it probably will but...?

Personally I prefer to know that I am going to bend my tools before I rip the locking dogs out of my auto gearbox. For what it is worth I reckon that it took close to 500 ft lbs to break the nuts free compared to the 330 ft lbs to torque them correctly. I tried to undo with my "big" torque wrench at 330 ft lbs- no joy- I then tried it at the max setting of 360 ft lb- no joy. In my case I had the gearbox in P, the hand brake on, the weight on the rubber and the wooden chock hammered into the rubber for good measure. I also placed a lump of wood on a jack under the socket extension to support the reaction from the big lever arm.

Adamant1971

Torque Multiplier