81 928 Injector question
#16
Pro
While it is a good idea to have it in place to keep all the debris out of the engine, you can run an engine without the filter when testing.
This ignores the fact that the engine does run differently with the filter housing and filter in place, but at low RPM testing, it should not make a difference.
Personally, I only ran mine without the filter while working on the injection system, getting the fuel lines purged. On a CIS equipped engine, it has to be out of the way to allow access to all the hard fuel pipes, and to push the metering plate to let the fuel flow.
This ignores the fact that the engine does run differently with the filter housing and filter in place, but at low RPM testing, it should not make a difference.
Personally, I only ran mine without the filter while working on the injection system, getting the fuel lines purged. On a CIS equipped engine, it has to be out of the way to allow access to all the hard fuel pipes, and to push the metering plate to let the fuel flow.
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Well that could be another problem I am possibly facing. I did pull the complete intake system off and replaced all of the intake gaskets so obviously had to pull the fuel rails. Another thing might be pointing towards a timing issue is although the coolant temp was fine, the exhaust heat was pretty damn hot. It was so hot that I did not notice that the exhaust tip was touching the body and started burning it. That would be a good indicator that the timing is off as well.
#18
Racer
I would be concerned that the car is running way too rich. If you have cats, beware that they can catch fire in a very over-rich condition. I saw a Mercedes 500 SL catch fire that way.
#19
I had the same problem. Not sure which one exactly fixed it but I checked cam timing, cleaned the afm, replaced the ignition rotor, confirmed plug wires were right, replaced spark plugs, and fixed a few vacuum leaks. I had an open vacuum line by the brake booster which was the big one, but a few of the runners on the intake manifold were leaking. Just reseated all the spider legs and made sure the clamps were tight.
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I want to thank all for the replies. I do want to learn everything I can about this awesome car. AFM is good, checked the cap and rotor......very little wear and looks good, plugs and wires are new, all vacuum lines are new and connected, checked by the brake booster and all looks good, intake manifold gaskets are new along with the upper boots. In regards to checking cam timing, is it as easy as putting it on TDC, making sure on number one, and making sure the drivers side cam gear little notch is lined up with the timing indicator? The problem still persists and I just can't seem to peg this. Again, thanks for all of the help. Steve
#21
Nordschleife Master
Pretty much. You can verify #1 TDC by pulling the dizzie cap and seeing that the rotor is pointed at #1.
I know I can't get my TB covers all the way off without pulling the radiator hoses, but I can unbolt them and get them far enough forward to see the belt & gears.
I know I can't get my TB covers all the way off without pulling the radiator hoses, but I can unbolt them and get them far enough forward to see the belt & gears.
#22
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I was able to check the drivers side cam gear but still need to check the passenger side. Along with the rough idle and popping through the intake, the throttle seems to stick at times as well. Thanks again for all of the feedback ya'll. Steve