Steering Rack removal - almost done but...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Steering Rack removal - almost done but...
I am in the process of removing Steering rack (due to leaks) in my 1988 928 S4.
I am about to unscrew the Tie rod from the Rack. Can I unscrew the Tie rod from the Rack while the opposite end of the tie rod (with ball joint) is still intact with suspension stuff?
I wish not to remove the ball joint end as it can be laborious.
Thanks All
I am about to unscrew the Tie rod from the Rack. Can I unscrew the Tie rod from the Rack while the opposite end of the tie rod (with ball joint) is still intact with suspension stuff?
I wish not to remove the ball joint end as it can be laborious.
Thanks All
#3
Rennlist Member
If you are competent enough to remove the rack then disconnecting the ball joint is a walk in the park by comparison assuming you have the correct tool and that is cheap enough. If the inner and outer ball joints are known to be good then by all means reuse them, same for the rubber boots/gaiters but if there is any doubt just replace the job lot while you are in there.
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
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By my casual estimates, the max service life for "new" performance in the steering bits is about 75k. Any services after 75k for sure deserve tie rods and ends replacement. By about 100k, you should be replacing them anyway.
A 54k car with the rack coming out anyway would normally get new pieces, as you only have 1.5 statistical normal-driving years before they would be ready for renewal. Meanwhile, such a low-mile car that's not driven much at all should be able to "get by" with what's in there for another decade, assuming nothing is damaged.
To your project: Loosen the locknut where the tie rod end is adjusted for alignment, and unscrew the tie rod from the end in place. --Count the turn (1 only) that you loosen each locknut, match-mark with a paint pen, and tape the nut in that exact position with some Gorilla Tape.-- On assembly you'll screw the end back into the tie rod until it bottoms on the nut, then out the same one turn before tightening the locknut. You'll end up pretty close on your initial toe adjustment.
That will leave you with the rack, and the two tie rods still screwed in. When you drop the rack, those will come out with it to the bench. Plan on removing them with the rack clamped to your worktable where there is much better/easier access. You'll have a better chance at assessing the tie rod condition before you unscrew them too.
Plan on installing new boots as part of your project. They are inexpensive, and there will never be an easier time to install them. The originals are close to forty years old, and after the leakage they are weakened even more by the steering fluid.
Replacement racks arrive with the pinion clocked randomly with the rack. The pre-airbag car allows you to remove and reinstall the steering wheel to recenter it. For airbag cars, you'll want to re-index the pinion on your replacement rack so that it matches your factory rack before installing the rack in the car. Greg Brown offered some guidance on this.
A 54k car with the rack coming out anyway would normally get new pieces, as you only have 1.5 statistical normal-driving years before they would be ready for renewal. Meanwhile, such a low-mile car that's not driven much at all should be able to "get by" with what's in there for another decade, assuming nothing is damaged.
To your project: Loosen the locknut where the tie rod end is adjusted for alignment, and unscrew the tie rod from the end in place. --Count the turn (1 only) that you loosen each locknut, match-mark with a paint pen, and tape the nut in that exact position with some Gorilla Tape.-- On assembly you'll screw the end back into the tie rod until it bottoms on the nut, then out the same one turn before tightening the locknut. You'll end up pretty close on your initial toe adjustment.
That will leave you with the rack, and the two tie rods still screwed in. When you drop the rack, those will come out with it to the bench. Plan on removing them with the rack clamped to your worktable where there is much better/easier access. You'll have a better chance at assessing the tie rod condition before you unscrew them too.
Plan on installing new boots as part of your project. They are inexpensive, and there will never be an easier time to install them. The originals are close to forty years old, and after the leakage they are weakened even more by the steering fluid.
Replacement racks arrive with the pinion clocked randomly with the rack. The pre-airbag car allows you to remove and reinstall the steering wheel to recenter it. For airbag cars, you'll want to re-index the pinion on your replacement rack so that it matches your factory rack before installing the rack in the car. Greg Brown offered some guidance on this.
#6
Rennlist Member