Window Regulator Mounting Points
 

I need to remove my passenger door window regulator to replace the motor & gearbox (jammed) and also do some general R&R to address window rattling. Problem is my door is covered in Second Skin DAmplifier MLV sound treatment and without a good reference it will be difficult to find the required bolts.
Don't want to have to remove it all.. Ideally a picture of the bare passenger door with bolt locations ID'd - but drivers door would be almost as good.

Alan

check this out Alan

Thanks - Stan that helps generally, anyone with a wider picture of the door for more context (esp the other door!) . (maybe Rob...?)

Alan

The passenger door panel just happens to be off my 80.

Snapped these, let me know if you need any more information:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...986ae8fec3.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d75c9aa277.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8882939dd4.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1fd3ae6457.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...020ee9875f.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...01af3277f4.jpg

Erik- thanks - Perfect!! :burnout:

Alan

Erik - those pictures & measurements helped immensely - located all 4 bolts pretty easily without needing to remove all the dAmplifier panels.

Replaced the gearbox - motor worm gear had broken off a tooth on the Nylon sprocket & jammed, took out all the window alignment guts and replaced the upper & lower guides, the felt pads the bottom grommet and cleaned the alignment bar .

All good now and super smooth & quick - thanks to Erik & Stan

First time I had done this - a bit fiddly but not so bad.

Alan

Alan FWIW one part that might get overlooked for creating drag is the round nylon button on the lift arm housing.
What happens is that the button has a spring washer under it and its made of spring steel that easily corrodes.
once this happens then the washer thickness increases from the corrosion.
This then pushes the round button harder against the lift arm this creates more drag and thus slows the window down.
The fix.
Pull the button straight out, its on a pin , dont twist it you can shear the pin off.

Get the spring washer and sand it with some 400 grit then put the some DC111 on the washer then put the button and washer back into place.
The DC111 will prevent water ingress and prevent corrosion of the washer

Oh the other thing to look out for are the arm stops you might find that yours are crumbling.
You can make new stops from a car tire side wall or a mud flap cut it with tin snips, the housing will clamp it into place.

If your taking the motors apart then installing a new brush assembly is the best money spent,
they are about 12 bux for a new Bosch brush block with the overheat breaker attached ,
its a plug and play deal, find them on Ebay

Stan,
I did also get parts for the lift arm roller - but it was actually in perfect condition, including the retainer ring - I just greased it and the track. The stops were fine and the motor is actually only 1 year old with very little use (esp since the window was jammed in place for the 6 weeks), in the hot months (April - Sep) I rarely open the windows - its almost always too hot outside.

Alan

Ahh for a car thats kept in a very dry climate then the window motor wont be subject to many moisture cycles