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Made some more progress today, but not as much as I would have liked, because I started cleaning things up a little as I was removing them - wiping down wiring of oil and grease, etc.
Removed A/C Compressor and tied it off to the side.
Removed Clutch bottom housing cover and noticed that the clutch assembly (looks like maybe the flywheel teeth from the 1st picture below) had been coming in contact with it to some degree - this may have happened a while ago when the first intermediate plate cracked, but the grooves in the cover aren't covered with the same black friction disc dust, so seems more recent, but I would guess that would make a god-awful noise that I don't recall hearing.
so I machined it down below the level of the grooves that existed so it won't contact there in the future. I couldn't figure out how it could be adjusted since the throwout bearing plate is held in a specific position by the two small bolts.
Also, should this T fastener be in the groove that it looks like it should be in?
I loosened both pinch bolts from the torque tube coupler, slid it back, and removed the 2 small fasteners from the throwout bearing plate.
I looked in the WSM and did an online search, but can't find definitive instructions on how the clutch pack is now removed at this point. I've read something about shims that need to be installed before taking the circumferential bolts loose
Also, do I need to not go any further with this part until I can put the flywheel lock on in order to break the crankshaft nut loose? I also have a hardware kit from Carl that has 3 U-shaped clips, 3 red head painted bolts, and 6 hardened bolts that is supposed to come in handy for this job as I'm changing my friction discs from the current SPEC ones back to OEM versions in order to smooth out the clutch engagement and make the car much more drivable in traffic and on hill starts. Currently the clutch is very grabby and you can't spin it against the flywheel at all without it creating driveline shudder - you either have to let it out very slowly with no throttle until it just starts to engage and then let it the rest of the way out very quickly, or you have to rev it up and dump it, but there's no middle ground, which I don't like, so fixing that as part of this project.
Other progress pics from today...
A/C Compressor removed and tied-off
Starter Wires Cleaned up
Y-Pipe and Heat Shield Removed
Also, my adapter flange from Dave Lomas at Motorsports SLC arrived today and the holes between the two flanges are clocked by about 1/3 hole. Is this what's needed for everything to properly line-up on the passenger side when installing the '85/'86 round tube SS headers onto a 16v engine or should the bolt holes be aligned? I'm going to clean-up the welds a little bit too before installing.
Planning to tackle the mess that is the power steering pump tomorrow. I have a spare that came with the car I'll be installing when it goes back together. Going to fire up the ultrasonic parts washer tomorrow if I have time to start degreasing some of these nasty brackets (power steering pump bracket, clutch housing cover, A/C bracket, exhaust heat shield. etc.)
Clutch removal is simple. The shims are the "U shaped clips". They go under the rivets to hold them out a bit when you unbolt the pressure plate pack (PP Pack). The 'T shaped fastener' is supposed to be a round head rivet. And yes, it's supposed to be up a bit.
6 bolts hold the PP pack to the fly wheel. You have to rotate the motor to get to them, so don't lock it into place just yet.. Carl may have sent you new bolts, some folks don't like to reuse them. Not sure.
Once the bolts are out, just pull the short shaft back, out of the pilot bearing in the back of the crank. The PP pack will fall freely down. Don't drop it on your head.
The short shaft should pull out easily. If not, there's a problem. I had to deal with it and can walk you through it.
that is a funny looking adapter,
the holes look like they wont line up but,
they make these flanges on a special jig so they do line up perfectly,
weld cleanup is another story
Next question. How the heck do you get the pulley off the power steering pump once the lock nut is removed. Are the threads backwards or should counter clockwise rotation remove it.
I have a spare PS pump I'm going to install but it has a bent pulley so I need to swap the pulley from my messy one over to it.
Hi Pete,
From your picture, there is a keyway on the pulley. I bet that using a puller will extract the pulley. BTW it looks like right-hand threads on the end of the shaft. I wish you the best of luck with your project.
Dave
Hi Pete,
From your picture, there is a keyway on the pulley. I bet that using a puller will extract the pulley. BTW it looks like right-hand threads on the end of the shaft. I wish you the best of luck with your project.
Dave
Yep, used a puller on it and after some coaxing, it released with a pop - was really on there. Did the other one too so should be able to put together one good power steering pump and one good pulley, although my spare PS pump was also pretty dirty. I'm wondering if there's a washers and seals kit to rebuild these so I'm sure they don't leak once I install one of them. If so, what is in that kit. Looks like they tend to leak from the large banjo fitting that has crush washers on both sides. Anywhere else?
Today, the new motor arrived and looks to be in good shape, though I haven't spun it upside down yet. BC did a very nice sealing and packaging job to keep the open ports sealed off.
I was able to lift the engine on the skid out of the bed of the pickup with the HF 2-Ton Hoist and pneumatic ram quite easily
Used Kevin's mounting bracket setup for the water-pump - worked great. (THANKS Kevin !)
On the backside, I do not have the large studs or bolt holes for his other bracket, just some M6 ones that hold the K-Jet setup in place, and didn't think they would be strong enough, so just used his eye-bolt through this hole instead (OK to do it this way, or not for the next lift?)
Then used the leveler to get the engine horizontal to connect it up to the Sunex Engine Stand - worked like a charm. I had to pick it up with with very uneven chain lengths the way it was sitting on the pallet and why I had to run the leveler all the way over to the side to level it out, but it all worked. I'll pick it up from the stand evenly and use the leveler to angle it for installation into the car for the next part.
I followed some advice I found on here about mounting it on the stand lower than aligning the crank with the rotational access of the stand, which should keep the center of gravity lower when it rolls over the top.
Going to try and finish the work under the car with the old motor tonight, then leave it there until this one is ready to go in so I don't lose more garage space. I plan to do some work on this new motor before installation, like installing a new oil pan gasket and stud kit, powdercoating the cam tower covers and some other parts, etc.
OK, I am super glad it is there in one piece. I had some dreams about the straps coming off....
I would strongly recommend redoing the pan gasket, as they always need to be redone. With the sitting, I would just assume. Free flywheel! lol. Take that off, so you can get to the starter bracket, and get that off, I would also say.
I put several squirts of fresh oil in the spark plug holes, so when you turn it upside down, it will leak out.
To remove these cam covers or valve covers for cleanup and powdercoat, do I just remove the 6 top caps so I can access the bolts under them and also the 9 lower socket cap bolts and then lift off (or tap off) the covers?
What surprises await me under there and if it's going to be a couple weeks before they go back on, do I just cover what's underneath them with plastic bags?
When you remove the bolts for the cam towers be aware that the cam followers can slide out of their bores and fall on the ground
Stan, well that sounds fun....
So how do you prevent that from happening, or is in not really preventable, and what's the best thing to do after? Do you put them back in and then use some blue tape across the tops to hold them in place, should you just remove them, and put them into individual baggies labelled for each cylinder, or something else.
I see some evidence of wetness on these valve covers on the new motor and have new gaskets from Roger already on hand. With this motor, I want to resolve all the oil leaks before it goes in so I don't have to deal with the mess I have with the current motor whenever I need to work on it.
Locked the flywheel and broke the crankshaft bolt loose. Now I'll be able to remove the clutch and bell housing to separate that from the motor (probably tomorrow)
Finished removing the power steering hoses as new versions of them are going in when the car goes back together
Removed the plastic timing belt covers - all but one is cracked, so probably going to replace them as well. Belt and pulleys are pretty nasty from the oil leaks
4.7 Liter on the Sunex stand with drip tray underneath. More parts to wash tomorrow.
Flywheel Lock Tool in use...
...to break the crankshaft bolt loose
Timing Belt covers removed - pretty messy in there
04-07-2019, 01:40 AM
