I unbolt hood hinges and all.

Thanks guys. Keep the tips coming.

My car has the Z06 6-speed if that effects any of this, like the bell housing suggestion.

What spec (size, length, thread pitch, and grade) mounting bolts will I need to put the engine on a Sunex 8300 engine stand once I've pulled it?

Umm disconnect the bell housing from the engine, remove the rear trans mounts to cross member
and slide it back an inch or so,
Put a small block of wood under the TT at the small chassis cross memeber the TT will rest on it.
Then pull the engine up about 4 inches then slide it forward while lifting.
The bell housing will hit the chassis if its not removed from the engine .
NOTE if you have a clutch then also remove the clutch

Sure, you can do it this way.

But we've removed/installed many engines bellhousing on, and it's far easier working on and setting up the clutch, and unistalling/installing the clutch-fork with the engine out.

The tricky part is removing/installing the torque tube bolts, but even that is easy enough, just need to be patient.

Are there threads you can refer me to here with pictures? Just curious.

I don't know if there are any threads on it.

And along those lines, there is no need to drop the exhaust system. Simply zip-tie it in-place, and only remove the 'collector' bolts.

Engine will come right out with exhaust in place, and one less thing to hook-up afterwards.

I've always found it easier to do it like Stan does. Unbolt the housing from the engine and leave it connected to the torque tube.

That is only way I've done.

OK, I'll do it that way and leave the bell-housing on the torque tube.

I'll be pulling the clutch pack anyway as I'm going to replace my spec friction discs with OEM ones to finally eliminate the grabbiness of the engagement that has bothered me since the beginning. My car does have the upgraded 80-83 dual disc clutch with intermediate plate and all that was new during the build, so just doing the friction discs which I already have on-hand.

Thanks.

By all means do what you think is best.

My comments are for 5-speeds only. I got sick and tired with wrestling with the clutch-fork and ball-cup bushing after dropping the engine back in. I had to use a crow-bar and large screwdriver to get the fork over the bushing.

Perhaps autos are easier.

Mine's not an auto or a 5-speed (6-speed) so guess I'll pull the clutch pack and then see what looks easier. My plan is to get a Cherry picker with a balancer assembly so I can angle the motor as needed coming out, then level it off. I still need to search for the engine hoist attachment points to see how all of that is done once I get everything off and disconnected.

I sure am going to learn a lot about my 928 if nothing else - maybe even enough to get my son one when he's old enough, because after this whole process, I might have a spare motor if my current one is OK.

Hi Pete,
There are a couple of things to do while the engine is out, that are difficult otherwise. One is the A/C line along the right fender. I'm sure there are others, and you should look around for them to save yourself grief.
Good luck,
Dave

the infamous blue hose from the brake booster.