And now the window motor....
02-16-2019, 05:07 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
And now the window motor....
If it's not one thing it's another: Finally took the passenger door apart to fix the handle, got the security plate out of the way (hint: It's a 13mm bolt at the bottom. Loosen a lot, don't take it out), reset the length of the drop link, and the door now works fine.
While I was in there I propped the window and took apart the window lift/motor. Problem was the motor was moving *very* slowly. Took the motor off the lift and sure enough the armature was stuck in the housing. Finally got the armature off and the bearing came with it. *UG*, the bearing was basically spun.
Can't fix that (the bearing keeper is a one way part that I can't remove or fix) so now I need a new window motor. And I have to leave the car un-driveable because the passenger door glass will fall down if the locking pliers come loose.
*AARRGGHH!!!*
Just wanted to share that.
While I was in there I propped the window and took apart the window lift/motor. Problem was the motor was moving *very* slowly. Took the motor off the lift and sure enough the armature was stuck in the housing. Finally got the armature off and the bearing came with it. *UG*, the bearing was basically spun.
Can't fix that (the bearing keeper is a one way part that I can't remove or fix) so now I need a new window motor. And I have to leave the car un-driveable because the passenger door glass will fall down if the locking pliers come loose.
*AARRGGHH!!!*
Just wanted to share that.
02-16-2019, 07:06 PM
#2
Team Owner
Part of the drag on the window is the arm pivot,
with the motor off the lift frame, the arm should spring back.
PB blaster on the pivot will free it, then add some oil to the pivot.
Next the small button that rubs on the gear pull it straight out ,
under this nylon button is a steel wave washer that will be rusted, sand this down,
then add some DC 111 to the washer so it won’t rust put it back into the frame.
with the motor off the lift frame, the arm should spring back.
PB blaster on the pivot will free it, then add some oil to the pivot.
Next the small button that rubs on the gear pull it straight out ,
under this nylon button is a steel wave washer that will be rusted, sand this down,
then add some DC 111 to the washer so it won’t rust put it back into the frame.
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 02-16-2019 at 11:02 PM.
02-16-2019, 07:48 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The pivots are surprisingly in ok shape grease wise. They move without much issue, the problem was the motor would barely move even off the rack. Because the drag is inside the motor.
With a bit of hammering I was able to get the copper bearing back into the motor and it together. Runs rather well however I ran out of light. Then I went to get my hair cut, walked over to open the passenger side door.
*CRACK*
The passenger door handle is now slightly askew. I'm guessing one of the pivots on *that* is now broken, is it possible that is why the door would not open previously (cracked) and my boosting the length of the link broke it? Or is there yet another alignment somewhere in there to get the handle to engage the door release.
If you give a mouse a cookie.... Maybe I should buy a new door and bolt it on..... At this rate I am NOT going to make tech for the track racing season start on March 15th. Still have to fix the passenger's emergency brake cable; the end of it got wrecked when the springs broke in the drum and I need to re-run the whole cable. Hopefully I don't have to take both sides apart in order to do this...
If you give a mouse a cookie....
With a bit of hammering I was able to get the copper bearing back into the motor and it together. Runs rather well however I ran out of light. Then I went to get my hair cut, walked over to open the passenger side door.
*CRACK*
The passenger door handle is now slightly askew. I'm guessing one of the pivots on *that* is now broken, is it possible that is why the door would not open previously (cracked) and my boosting the length of the link broke it? Or is there yet another alignment somewhere in there to get the handle to engage the door release.
If you give a mouse a cookie.... Maybe I should buy a new door and bolt it on..... At this rate I am NOT going to make tech for the track racing season start on March 15th. Still have to fix the passenger's emergency brake cable; the end of it got wrecked when the springs broke in the drum and I need to re-run the whole cable. Hopefully I don't have to take both sides apart in order to do this...
If you give a mouse a cookie....
02-17-2019, 04:27 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
In the meantime I took the motor apart again and managed to somewhat center the bearing. However several of the keepers bent, meaning that it moves slightly off center. So with the motor together and lubricated liberally the armature is scraping a bit against the magnets. *ug*.
By not tightening one of the two motor screws completely I've been able to adjust it slightly so the motor goes down with some noise and up smoothly. Window moves *fast* with a lubricated motor and turned commutator bars. Given that the grinding is happening on the down side I'm hoping wear will be minimal until I can get a new motor from my favorite 928 parts vendor :-) More importantly it means the window is up and I can get it down for racing.
On to the door latch: Took off the security plate and took a look at the hinge. Sure enough it's broken on one side, so I'll replace that next weekend. Question though: How critical is the alignment of the handle, as I could probably get 3/4 of the bolts out easily then take the handle out of the door, remove its' bolt, and move on. That much of a pain to re-align?
C
By not tightening one of the two motor screws completely I've been able to adjust it slightly so the motor goes down with some noise and up smoothly. Window moves *fast* with a lubricated motor and turned commutator bars. Given that the grinding is happening on the down side I'm hoping wear will be minimal until I can get a new motor from my favorite 928 parts vendor :-) More importantly it means the window is up and I can get it down for racing.
On to the door latch: Took off the security plate and took a look at the hinge. Sure enough it's broken on one side, so I'll replace that next weekend. Question though: How critical is the alignment of the handle, as I could probably get 3/4 of the bolts out easily then take the handle out of the door, remove its' bolt, and move on. That much of a pain to re-align?
C