'86 Power Steering Full of Air
#1
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Thread Starter
'86 Power Steering Full of Air
Finished timing belt service and replaced the power steering short feed hose (the double angled one) to the pump from the reservoir. I have tried all bleeding techniques (turning lock to lock 10-15 times with engine running and without the engine running) and letting it sit over night several days. When I started this morning still a groaning and whining and the fluid is foaming without turning the wheel. The steering wheel is hard to turn while on the ground and whining is severe and not as severe when lifted. I have checked the lines for any kinks and all seems to be good. What should I look for next? My thought was to remove the new line and make sure there is no restriction? Filter in reservoir clogged?
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Gravity will inevitably allow air in the lines to find its way to the reservoir. Cycling the steering lock to lock with engine running will circulate bubbles in the fluid into the reservoir.
That's the official method.
----
Meanwhile, look for air leaks in the low-pressure section. The "filter" in the reservoir is a fine screen intended to catch debris before the pump. That would normally be limited to particles of pump vanes that wear off, and there should be virtually none of that in a system that's maintained.
If you had the reservoir completely removed, verify that you didn't get the hoses swapped underneath. The pump suction line must be connected to the port under the screen, with the return from the fuel cooler coming back into the outer shell.
From some Ford guidance a couple decades ago: Apply vacuum to the system to de-gas the fluid. The casual method I came up with for doing that included a home-made metal plate with a gasket underneath and a port for vacuum. Vacuum will hold it to the top of the reservoir once you get going. A brake-fluid trap (from your Miti-Vac kit...) goes between the adapter and a source of engine intake manifold vacuum. I'd use a hemostat or hose-pincher to pinch the vacuum hose and manage velocity through the trap. Start the engine, and slowly release the pinch on the hose until you start seeing fluid carryover into the trap, then slow the flow enough to stop the carryover.. Cycle the steering, and the vacuum will expand any air bubbles in the fluid, encouraging them to stay at the high spot in the system.
If you still have foam and groaning in the system after that, you need to get more serious about finding the air leak in the suction between reservoir and pump.
That's the official method.
----
Meanwhile, look for air leaks in the low-pressure section. The "filter" in the reservoir is a fine screen intended to catch debris before the pump. That would normally be limited to particles of pump vanes that wear off, and there should be virtually none of that in a system that's maintained.
If you had the reservoir completely removed, verify that you didn't get the hoses swapped underneath. The pump suction line must be connected to the port under the screen, with the return from the fuel cooler coming back into the outer shell.
From some Ford guidance a couple decades ago: Apply vacuum to the system to de-gas the fluid. The casual method I came up with for doing that included a home-made metal plate with a gasket underneath and a port for vacuum. Vacuum will hold it to the top of the reservoir once you get going. A brake-fluid trap (from your Miti-Vac kit...) goes between the adapter and a source of engine intake manifold vacuum. I'd use a hemostat or hose-pincher to pinch the vacuum hose and manage velocity through the trap. Start the engine, and slowly release the pinch on the hose until you start seeing fluid carryover into the trap, then slow the flow enough to stop the carryover.. Cycle the steering, and the vacuum will expand any air bubbles in the fluid, encouraging them to stay at the high spot in the system.
If you still have foam and groaning in the system after that, you need to get more serious about finding the air leak in the suction between reservoir and pump.
#4
Rennlist Member
Given the steering effort is hard it would seem evident that the PS pump is not generating any head. That it is making groaning noises suggests cavitation and the logical cause for that is power steering fluid not getting through to the pump. Presumably you have checked to ensure there is still the correct level of PS fluid in the reservoir?
I would suggest that in the first instance you confirm the situation Dr Bob suggested about making sure the reservoir hoses are connected the right way round. I am not sure of how the return port is configured but it is quite conceivable that if connected to the suction of the pump it will drain down and then suck air and that may well explain your symptoms.
If the hoses are connected correctly and the correct level is in the reservoir you could try undoing the suction hose at the PS pump to see if the fluid drains out freely. Also check inside the PS reservoir to ensure noting silly like a piece of plastic bag got in there and is blocking the inlet to the strainer.
I would suggest that in the first instance you confirm the situation Dr Bob suggested about making sure the reservoir hoses are connected the right way round. I am not sure of how the return port is configured but it is quite conceivable that if connected to the suction of the pump it will drain down and then suck air and that may well explain your symptoms.
If the hoses are connected correctly and the correct level is in the reservoir you could try undoing the suction hose at the PS pump to see if the fluid drains out freely. Also check inside the PS reservoir to ensure noting silly like a piece of plastic bag got in there and is blocking the inlet to the strainer.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The new hose was replaced without removal of the reservoir. I assume that the suction is the one I replaced. No fluid leaks what so ever.
Did not remove banjo fittings.
Did not remove banjo fittings.
Last edited by buccicone; 02-12-2019 at 03:12 PM.
#6
Team Owner
did you fit a new reservoir or is it original?
if original then replace it.
While the parts on order,
get a 13 mm wrench and tighten the bolts that hold the pump together
if original then replace it.
While the parts on order,
get a 13 mm wrench and tighten the bolts that hold the pump together
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#8
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Reading again -- a kink or twist in the line between reservoir and pump suction will present the symptoms you report.
#9
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Thread Starter
dr. bob,
I'm going to pull down the alternator to get a view of that line since that was the only change in the system that happened. As we say "what did you do last?"
I'm going to pull down the alternator to get a view of that line since that was the only change in the system that happened. As we say "what did you do last?"
#10
Drifting
There’s a little wire yoke held onto pump by one of the case screws. The supply line should be clipped into this to route it at correct radius to the pump inlet. You have to insert it more by feel than seeing it, but it takes very little effort to pop it into the clip. Did you do this on install?
#11
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Thread Starter
There’s a little wire yoke held onto pump by one of the case screws. The supply line should be clipped into this to route it at correct radius to the pump inlet. You have to insert it more by feel than seeing it, but it takes very little effort to pop it into the clip. Did you do this on install?
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Problem solved. The top P/S case bolt was finger tight and a slight amount of fluid was seen. Tightened up. Don't know how it loosened. Maybe accidentally when removing for the timing belt job. No bubbles no noise. I also changed the reservoir. Stan, your the man. Thanks for the suggestions, guys.
#13
Team Owner
Keep em Flying Mike!