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85 Euro "aesthetic resuscitation" by Austin aka KilnRed

 
Old 05-19-2019, 11:56 AM
  #31  
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Professionals at work. Awesome. Much respect!
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:20 PM
  #32  
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This car is on the rougher end of those that I have done complete resprays on in the past. We're embarking on the dawn of a new era in the 928 community, in my opinion. The scope is widening and acceptable starting points are getting pushed further and further back for all "resuscitation" endeavors. I am enjoying and learning a lot with Brad's car as my guinea pig. It is becoming clearer to me where and how some of the normally kept cars will deteriorate over the next 10 years. Particularly for those that are in more moist climates. Our beloved 928s are about to have to go on a stricter schedule of cavity wax and other such corrosion prevention measures.

Brad's Euro has also challenged me to expand my knowledge on a number of levels, but in no way more so than on the matter of the chemicals themselves. We are using R-M, BASF's brother brand to Glasurit, for all products up to the clear coat application. We are using Glasurit 923-255 for the clear coat. Because R-M Diamont basecoat is polyester-based just like Glasurit 55-line, there is no compatibility concern with 923 series clear coats. Additionally, 923 series clear coats will actually achieve as good or better adhesion than R-M's offerings.

Using R-M's undercoats is forcing me out of my comfort zone for what I have always known to be acceptable practice for painting 928s. This Prussian Blue Euro (33X) gave my jobber and I fits while trying to crossover the original Glasurit formula to an R-M Diamont mix because of a discontinued toner for the exact original mix. While the jobber and the Germans were working to figure that out, I was looking exploring my options for primers and sealers. Then I recalled using a urethane primer from the R-M lineup that boasted excellent adhesion to aluminum, and I remembered having good luck with it on other aluminum panels. My experience tells me that 928 aluminum is a beast of its own, so adhesion would need to be verified for exactly our application before pushing my chips all in on the urethane primer. It works! It's hard to discern what the long-term results will be because urethane's biggest performance issue over aluminum is that it won't ever match the elasticity of epoxy products, no matter the first issue of adhesion. However, this option is now in play for more than 75% of my customers, as their cars rarely will see extreme heat or cold. It amounts to a massive savings of money in the case of this Prussian Blue Euro because I now have one undercoat in use to serve the needs of all surfaces. These include galvanized, electrostatic, sealer, aluminum, polyurethane, and polyester body filler surfaces. There will only be epoxy on the underside of the hood and at the exposed silicon bronze joints.

This is the RMP series primer offered by R-M, and it is offered in 3 shades (RMP25, RMP26, and RMP27). We're using RMP27 (black), but it can be mixed with the others for a desired shade. It is of great importance to make note that not all direct-to-metal primers may be used over body filler.

Originally Posted by Landseer View Post
Professionals at work. Awesome. Much respect!
Good to see that you're still active here, Chris. Hope all is well with you!

Last edited by Kiln_Red; 05-31-2019 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 05-21-2019, 12:32 PM
  #33  
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This is the place that can reproduce any sticker:

https://car-bone.pl/tags/porsche-stickers/
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Old 05-21-2019, 12:50 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by worf928 View Post
This is the place that can reproduce any sticker:

https://car-bone.pl/tags/porsche-stickers/
Thank you very much!!
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Old 05-21-2019, 01:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red View Post
Thank you very much!!
Get up Donít thank me yet. If they donít have a sticker already they can recreate one from a picture. But if you donít have one to photograph...

In any case, Thank You, for the education.
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Old 05-21-2019, 01:10 PM
  #36  
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You need a paint code sticker. They can do that, but you’ll need to give them the text if they don’t have Prussian Blue (small chance.)
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:07 PM
  #37  
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This one is from Car-bone. Feels high quality.

/Mattias
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Old 05-24-2019, 01:23 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by M. Requin View Post
Thanks for the tip on that area and the POR15 recommendation.
I'm a big fan of POR15. Austin is the first pro I've ever "heard" recommend it. Many "experts" in restoration forums hate POR15 and give all kinds of suspect reasons not to use it (Expensive being one). I have had great success with it on Unimogs and an old Volvo. Use the POR prep and priming products. Follow directions carefully. Don't buy big cans of it. Buy the small 6 packs. POR15 cures when exposed to humidity. Big cans will cure in the can before you use it up. A muggy summer day is great because it allows for about 30 minutes between coats (slight finger drag...not wet, not dry...apply second coat). It flows incredibly well. No brush marks. You can't sand it after it cures. It's amazingly TOUGH after curing. Another interesting thing - it does not chemically bond with the metal. It needs "tooth" to physically hold on to the surface. This is why painting over the rust, with minimal rust removal by wire brush, is the preferred method. POR Paste is great for fixing drip rails and rusted channels under rubber trunk seals. It's just a thicker version of POR15...it's about the consistency of tooth paste. Prime with POR primer as soon as the final coat has slight finger drag (slightly tacky feeling). Don't let the POR cure before priming and top coating. It is like a porcelain finish after curing and nothing can bond to after curing. It can't be sanded after it cures.

One more thing...wear nitrile gloves and old long sleeve shirt held tight around wrists. If you get POR on your skin the only way to get it off is to wait for your skin to shed. It takes about a week.
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Old 05-24-2019, 02:02 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Captain_Slow View Post
I'm a big fan of POR15. Austin is the first pro I've ever "heard" recommend it. Many "experts" in restoration forums hate POR15 and give all kinds of suspect reasons not to use it (Expensive being one). I have had great success with it on Unimogs and an old Volvo. Use the POR prep and priming products. Follow directions carefully. Don't buy big cans of it. Buy the small 6 packs. POR15 cures when exposed to humidity. Big cans will cure in the can before you use it up. A muggy summer day is great because it allows for about 30 minutes between coats (slight finger drag...not wet, not dry...apply second coat). It flows incredibly well. No brush marks. You can't sand it after it cures. It's amazingly TOUGH after curing. Another interesting thing - it does not chemically bond with the metal. It needs "tooth" to physically hold on to the surface. This is why painting over the rust, with minimal rust removal by wire brush, is the preferred method. POR Paste is great for fixing drip rails and rusted channels under rubber trunk seals. It's just a thicker version of POR15...it's about the consistency of tooth paste. Prime with POR primer as soon as the final coat has slight finger drag (slightly tacky feeling). Don't let the POR cure before priming and top coating. It is like a porcelain finish after curing and nothing can bond to after curing. It can't be sanded after it cures.

One more thing...wear nitrile gloves and old long sleeve shirt held tight around wrists. If you get POR on your skin the only way to get it off is to wait for your skin to shed. It takes about a week.
Excellent suggestions! Another suggestion worth adding is to not pour your product from the supplied can without masking off or otherwise preventing it from pooling where the lid will be seated if re-use is desired. You will most likely never be able to properly open the can again once cured.
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:20 AM
  #40  
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Yup. POR-15 rocks!

It’s great for any of the ‘black’ parts when/if/once they get scuffed and start to rust (e.g. engine carrier, a-arm guards, etc.)
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:54 PM
  #41  
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Teaser pics!!! More to come..

I think I have grossly underestimated the beauty of this color (Prussian Blue - 33X) when it is as it should be.. Guarded by a deep, crystal clear film of Glasuirt clearcoat.







So what is the preferred vehicle for media file sharing these days? I don't like the logos. More than that, I don't like when old photos turn up missing!
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:59 PM
  #42  
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Stunning!!!
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Old 06-27-2019, 02:18 PM
  #43  
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^^hubba-hubba^^ T

"Austin: So what is the preferred vehicle for media file sharing these days? I don't like the logos. More than that, I don't like when old photos turn up missing!"

https://www.google.com/search?source...kIAw#kpvalbx=1

Then transfer from computer to this thread by clicking onto "Edit", "Go Advanced", drag n drop from desktop or wherever you have the pics stored on your computer, then click "upload", then "Save" Store (and name) a file on your computer when finished.

Last edited by 77tony; 06-28-2019 at 02:37 AM.
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Old 06-27-2019, 04:11 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 77tony View Post
^^hubba-hubba^^ T

"Austin: So what is the preferred vehicle for media file sharing these days? I don't like the logos. More than that, I don't like when old photos turn up missing!"

https://www.google.com/search?source...kIAw#kpvalbx=1

Then transfer from computer to this thread by clicking onto "Edit", "Go Advanced", drag n drop from desktop or wherever you have the pics stored on your computer, then clikck "upload", then "Save" Store (and name) a file on your computer when finished.
A service to us all. Bad enough to see all the blank space where interesting photos once where in the "Random Picture Thread...", but much worse when it is a post full of illustrated technical info.
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Old 07-11-2019, 12:48 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red View Post








Be back with more pics soon!
928 Roofs always seem to be prone to refinish problems.. what is the best way to seal up a preparation like the one pictured? you've got bare steel, edges of galvanization, factory sealer and primer all exposed here. how do you prevent it from blowing up in 5 years?
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