Correct procedure for fitting hatch seal
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Correct procedure for fitting hatch seal
I purchased a new rear hatch seal from Porsche who also sold me some sealant with it. Can anyone advise on the correct process for fitting this and where/when the sealant is applied?
Thanks in advance
Marti
Thanks in advance
Marti
#2
Team Owner
before i offer suggestions please show a sample/picture of the sealant that you have been given
#3
Rennlist Member
As for the seal itself, install it with the seam at the bottom centered by the latch/lock. Dont stretch it and cut it to butt tight after coming all the way around to the bottom. If I remember correctly, the longer flange goes to the exterior side of the hatch. Cant speak on the sealant, as I installed mine without any due to it being such a tight fit.
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sealant?
I don’t think you need any on the hatch seal.
I replaced the hatch seal on the 79 over 10 years ago. (No leaks, has not come off, still good to go) I did have to remove the panel that has the rear visors to gain access and install.
Seal should press fit around the body.
Line up the seal (roughly) with the part that comes together towards the rear of the car. Start on the edge towards the roof and press fit over the “flange”
(I guess that’s what you’d call it) to begin, and keep press fitting it on that edge, working down both sides toward the rear of the car.
As you finally get to the rear, the seal should be a little longer than needed. If I remember correctly, there’s a “finger” on one side that protrudes out and inserts into the opposite end of the seal. You may have to cut off a little on the side that accepts the “finger”. Once it’s correct length, slip the finger into the other end of the seal. (Sounds a little funny....)
The new hatch seal (along w new teflon patches) should cure all leaks and hatch rattles. You’ll almost have to “slam” the hatch down as the brand new seal has some height to it vs the old one that’s probably like a piece of plastic by now.
Good luck with it, pretty easy and should only take a few minutes to install.
I don’t think you need any on the hatch seal.
I replaced the hatch seal on the 79 over 10 years ago. (No leaks, has not come off, still good to go) I did have to remove the panel that has the rear visors to gain access and install.
Seal should press fit around the body.
Line up the seal (roughly) with the part that comes together towards the rear of the car. Start on the edge towards the roof and press fit over the “flange”
(I guess that’s what you’d call it) to begin, and keep press fitting it on that edge, working down both sides toward the rear of the car.
As you finally get to the rear, the seal should be a little longer than needed. If I remember correctly, there’s a “finger” on one side that protrudes out and inserts into the opposite end of the seal. You may have to cut off a little on the side that accepts the “finger”. Once it’s correct length, slip the finger into the other end of the seal. (Sounds a little funny....)
The new hatch seal (along w new teflon patches) should cure all leaks and hatch rattles. You’ll almost have to “slam” the hatch down as the brand new seal has some height to it vs the old one that’s probably like a piece of plastic by now.
Good luck with it, pretty easy and should only take a few minutes to install.
#5
Team Owner
FWIW a new hatch seal will come with a white sealant already injected into the ridge groove.
A new factory seal should not need to be cut, and the ends will be at the hatch latch
A new factory seal should not need to be cut, and the ends will be at the hatch latch
#6
Rennlist Member
Subscribed.
Just remembered that this is winter project I have to get to also. Thanks
Just remembered that this is winter project I have to get to also. Thanks