I have some leaks
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I have some leaks
Of course, I have a lot of leaks. The '83 model I have is leaking everything but brake fluid. I just wanted to discuss a few and ask for some thoughts.
The no.1 issue I need to solve is this fuel leak above the #5 injector. The injectors are attached with short hoses with hose clamps around... I don't think this is normal for an L-Jet system, as every other thread I've seen about L-Jet shows it completely differently (and apparently they are a PITA). I've had the car 8 months now and I've only known about this leak as of 1 month ago, because it only seems to leak when the temperature is less than 0C. I feel a difference in the performance too, as it seems to have a consistent misfire for a while when I start it up on cold mornings.
Sorry about the blurry image, my phone's camera has ADD
Issue no.2: Water leaking into the car. I've seen a few threads about the blower box leaking water,
but I don't think this is the blower box. Right in the center console. It has been a problem for a while, I kept getting a small pool of water behind the passenger seat whenever we got enough rain, I just recently found this. Afterwards, I also found leaking in the rear, and I believe it's coming in from the wiper arm attachment point (but maybe also from the hatch lock). A while ago I noticed the area under the rear passenger seat was getting wet and I thought it was originally from when water was coming in from the sunroof (which is fixed now).
No.3 issue is, of course, oil leaks. Most notably, I see it pooling under the air intake area (is it called a valley?), I also noticed a bunch inside the intake. The PCV hose at the intake spider is constantly wet with oil. Along with many other places I probably can't see under all the mess coming from up top. Where should I start with all this?
I look forward to your responses. Thanks in advance.
The no.1 issue I need to solve is this fuel leak above the #5 injector. The injectors are attached with short hoses with hose clamps around... I don't think this is normal for an L-Jet system, as every other thread I've seen about L-Jet shows it completely differently (and apparently they are a PITA). I've had the car 8 months now and I've only known about this leak as of 1 month ago, because it only seems to leak when the temperature is less than 0C. I feel a difference in the performance too, as it seems to have a consistent misfire for a while when I start it up on cold mornings.
Sorry about the blurry image, my phone's camera has ADD
Issue no.2: Water leaking into the car. I've seen a few threads about the blower box leaking water,
but I don't think this is the blower box. Right in the center console. It has been a problem for a while, I kept getting a small pool of water behind the passenger seat whenever we got enough rain, I just recently found this. Afterwards, I also found leaking in the rear, and I believe it's coming in from the wiper arm attachment point (but maybe also from the hatch lock). A while ago I noticed the area under the rear passenger seat was getting wet and I thought it was originally from when water was coming in from the sunroof (which is fixed now).
No.3 issue is, of course, oil leaks. Most notably, I see it pooling under the air intake area (is it called a valley?), I also noticed a bunch inside the intake. The PCV hose at the intake spider is constantly wet with oil. Along with many other places I probably can't see under all the mess coming from up top. Where should I start with all this?
I look forward to your responses. Thanks in advance.
#2
Team Owner
glad you posted pictures it makes diagnosis more accuarte.
First you should not run the engine with any leaking fuel as an errant spark from one of the ignition wires will light it .
That said the hose clamp might need to be tightened a bit or better yet ,
replace all 8 of these short hoses with fresh FI hose and replace the clamps with FI clamps.
NOTE the hose inner wall could also have been damage by over tightening it. as its fitted on barbs.
For the heater box leak I would suggest that if you dont plan on removing the dash to remove the heater box you do this instead.
Remove the lower cowl cover that runs along the lower edge of the windshield, take off the two edge trims and then wipers.
clean off the dirt from the rubber seal where it touches the glass,
then get some DC111 and put some on the glass and rubber of the cowl seal and refit it.
this will prevent water from running down to your heater box.
Next get a Jerry Feather inner cowl cover and fit it this will also assist with keeping water out of the heater box.
Consider removing the blower box and resealing it with fresh 3M strip caulk.
The rear leaks are probably from the hatch seal the quarter windows and the hatch lock collar and wiper grommets.
Most of these can be repaired with a syringe filled with DC111.
Quarter windows,
inject a bead along the outer edge of the rubber seal this will prevent water from migrating past the seal.
Hatch lock,
remove the lock unit from the rubber,
remove the rubber and clean it,
then put a bead of DC111 on the outer edge of the rubber and install it,
then put some on the outer surface of the lock this will stop water migration.
Wiper pivots , add the DC111 to them after you have removed the shafts.
Hatch seal,
its best of you buy a new hatch seal,
put a smear on the outer edge of the seal
Note clean the hatch sealing surface first
NOTE you will have to remove the 2 sun visors and the upper hatch cover and lamp to properly seat the hatch seal
NOTE disconnect the battery first so you dont short our the hatch lamps
The oil leak is probably coming from the oil fill housing base and might just need the two bolts that hold it to the block to be snugged,
otherwise removal and gasket replacement and use Drei Bond 1209 to seal the gasket.
First you should not run the engine with any leaking fuel as an errant spark from one of the ignition wires will light it .
That said the hose clamp might need to be tightened a bit or better yet ,
replace all 8 of these short hoses with fresh FI hose and replace the clamps with FI clamps.
NOTE the hose inner wall could also have been damage by over tightening it. as its fitted on barbs.
For the heater box leak I would suggest that if you dont plan on removing the dash to remove the heater box you do this instead.
Remove the lower cowl cover that runs along the lower edge of the windshield, take off the two edge trims and then wipers.
clean off the dirt from the rubber seal where it touches the glass,
then get some DC111 and put some on the glass and rubber of the cowl seal and refit it.
this will prevent water from running down to your heater box.
Next get a Jerry Feather inner cowl cover and fit it this will also assist with keeping water out of the heater box.
Consider removing the blower box and resealing it with fresh 3M strip caulk.
The rear leaks are probably from the hatch seal the quarter windows and the hatch lock collar and wiper grommets.
Most of these can be repaired with a syringe filled with DC111.
Quarter windows,
inject a bead along the outer edge of the rubber seal this will prevent water from migrating past the seal.
Hatch lock,
remove the lock unit from the rubber,
remove the rubber and clean it,
then put a bead of DC111 on the outer edge of the rubber and install it,
then put some on the outer surface of the lock this will stop water migration.
Wiper pivots , add the DC111 to them after you have removed the shafts.
Hatch seal,
its best of you buy a new hatch seal,
put a smear on the outer edge of the seal
Note clean the hatch sealing surface first
NOTE you will have to remove the 2 sun visors and the upper hatch cover and lamp to properly seat the hatch seal
NOTE disconnect the battery first so you dont short our the hatch lamps
The oil leak is probably coming from the oil fill housing base and might just need the two bolts that hold it to the block to be snugged,
otherwise removal and gasket replacement and use Drei Bond 1209 to seal the gasket.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I'm getting a much closer look now at this stuff next to the oil fill. It seems there is a lot of oil running through the PCV hoses? I've also noticed oil seepage on the hose going into the side of the intake on top, and when I had my AFM off there was a small pool of oil inside the throttle area.
One other leak I found was where the oil pressure sender goes into [the block?]. I tried tightening it, haven't really looked at it since. The plugs above the sender also looked like they were leaking.
Is the gasket for the oil fill made of rubber? From the PET it looked like it was flat.
Would replacing all these hoses provide much help with the leaking situation, or should I look somewhere else for a bigger leak?
How much time should I set aside for replacing the rear crank seal? I believe that is also leaking pretty bad.
#4
Burning Brakes
I also have an ‘83. See this thread to see some pics on the injector hose change (and a bunch of OTHER leak fixes and preventative maintenance). When you have the injectors out, send them off for professional cleaning and also replace the two rubber rings on each injector (and new connector hoses too), all available from Roger. Oh, consider replacing ALL flexible fuel hoses underhood. More info here. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...oses-83-a.html
#5
Rennlist Member
There is also a drain for the heater air intake chamber on the firewall - low down, engine side, a black rubber flap, ~ 3"x1.5". Open this flaps(hinges at top) , check for debris inside. If leaf debris builds up in the chamber the drain can get blocked and water can build up until it gets insider. The hoses on L-jet injectors are notorious for failing.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
#6
Racer
I am going to be immature here, and before anyone says it, you thought it as well..
Every time I read the subject line I think "A visit to the doctor can cure that"
Every time I read the subject line I think "A visit to the doctor can cure that"
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
There is also a drain for the heater air intake chamber on the firewall - low down, engine side, a black rubber flap, ~ 3"x1.5". Open this flaps(hinges at top) , check for debris inside. If leaf debris builds up in the chamber the drain can get blocked and water can build up until it gets insider. The hoses on L-jet injectors are notorious for failing.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
I did know about the L-jet hoses failing, my main concern here was that it wasn't actually how they were supposed to be installed, like somebody swapped the fuel rail out for something else. At least they don't leak now that the weather has warmed up. I will probably be replacing those hoses sometime this summer.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Many owners dont know about that drain flap. I havent had any water inside the car (that I know of!), but I have replaced the original flimsy, only part covering cowl cover with Jerry's more robust one, and am very happy with it. Also the spare wheel cover.
I have seen an English car with L-jet injection which had leaks on most of those short hoses - if any of our vendors offers a kit to replace these, I would jump at it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k CIS, with steel injection lines!
I have seen an English car with L-jet injection which had leaks on most of those short hoses - if any of our vendors offers a kit to replace these, I would jump at it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k CIS, with steel injection lines!