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Hi all, I am ready with my car with ITB for startup and tuning (Shark tuner). My question, I removed the idle stabilizer valve and is there anythong I need to do with the wire that now is not connected to idle stabilizer valve anymore?
No harm on leaving the connector disconnected, maybe putting a protective sleeve/cap over it and secure it out of the way. I'm curious how you plan to manage idle speed beyond the stop screws on the individual TB's.
No harm on leaving the connector disconnected, maybe putting a protective sleeve/cap over it and secure it out of the way. I'm curious how you plan to manage idle speed beyond the stop screws on the individual TB's.
at w
I have no idea how he is going to do that with the factory computers. Aftermarket stuff usually has enough stuff to dial it in to idle, and worst case would be to plumb the ICV in and you can feed vacuum tubes to each ITB.
I'm not planning on using an ICV with mine either.
Thank you, I will put plastic around it. Idle, let us see whats needed 😊! If the idle is too low when cold and too high when warm I will do like suggestion ”hoses after ITBs and before ITBs another hose -connected to original ICV”. The sound, I will let you know!
/Jonas
Last edited by Gulpilen; 01-12-2019 at 03:36 PM.
Reason: Missed icv word
Jonas, I’ve recently been through a similar process although my tuning was for the JDS alpha n. Are you using forced induction?
The static setup is important and can save you time further downstream.. Balancing the throttle plates and getting them to open in sync, setting correct fuel pressure.
As for idle, hopefully others can help. I’ve got the stock ICV feeding vacuum passages through all eight itbs. The JDS idle controller works effectively with this.
Jonas, I’ve recently been through a similar process although my tuning was for the JDS alpha n. Are you using forced induction?
The static setup is important and can save you time further downstream.. Balancing the throttle plates and getting them to open in sync, setting correct fuel pressure.
As for idle, hopefully others can help. I’ve got the stock ICV feeding vacuum passages through all eight itbs. The JDS idle controller works effectively with this.
Not forcera in this setup. My FP is under control with fpr (aftermarket).Yes, thanks for your heads-up, it has been a small worry of having them itbs open exactly the same.
My Idea with the throttle plates is to (not yet tested...) using a vacuum measure by one ITB and adjust the rest with the same. Using a clock, in my setup, seems to be not so easy. Not for me anyway...
Ok, a T connector to vacuum hoses from stock ICV. That sounds good! Will look at JDS idle controller!
Jonas, very crudely I used a micrometer slid down the itb mouth to measure the throttle plate deflection for initial setup. If the car is not street driven then you may be ok without an ICV? Just set the throttle plates for a fast idle and call it good? I’m not sure what others have done..
My setup courtesy of Alex P uses bmw itbs with the vacuum passages cast in place.
There are very many multi-cylinder engines having no ICV out there so why should it not work? The throttle plates have to be synchronized. Set the throttles for good idle when engine has reached operating temperature. The only problem I can see is the idle rpm cold will probably not be the same as when engine is warmed up. Here is how they do it for a bike.
Åke https://pastframe.wordpress.com/2014...nchronization/
Some additional info. http://www.compsystems.com.au/index....whole-ls-range
Having tried to tune a V12 in which the idle speed was controlled by the setting of the 12 throttle plates, I suggest you may end up wanting the ISV. I have found maintaining the sync over time and temp difficult.
Curious, can you fab a manifold or block and distribute air from the ISV equally to all 8 ports after the butterflies as long as there is a 'vacuum' port per each runner?
01-12-2019, 09:35 AM
ITB setup startup - removed idle stabilizer - ok?
