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S3 Intake Refesh Guidance Sought

 
Old 01-02-2019, 08:27 AM
  #31  
Ramp
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Originally Posted by 928S MN View Post
To better clean those electrical plugs I got the smaller bottle of 100% Deoxit instead of the more common 5% Deoxit.
I have the nail polish size deoxit 100 - is it as simple as dabbing it into each connector. I don't have anything I can insert to agitate the connector and not looking to take out each individual wire insert.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:57 AM
  #32  
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Morning Ramp,

All I did was visually inspect the connector for any damage, then dabbed each connector with the 100% Deoxit.

On the new oil baffle, install it before installing the water bridge. Otherwise you won't be able to get it in.
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:46 PM
  #33  
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Thought I would post a quick update. Iím still firming up a parts list and making some decisions. All opinions appreciated.
I will replace all the sensors, all intake rubber and vac lines (with a few exceptions). Iím not going to replace the rubber in take sleeves. Mine are very pliable and look excellent.

- Still on the fence on replacing injectors with Next Gen 4 hole or simply sending OEM to Witchhunter

- Was advised not to upgrade the FPR to í87 until ready to install chip - will run too rich. So, will clean and re-use the FPR and F&R dampers until ready for Porken chips. I did start cleaning and refinishing them and checked that they hold vac (they only have 42K miles and I was not having an issue before teardown)

- Still looking for an answer to whether I can remove 1 spring off he TB, I resurrected a post on this in another thread.

- Any new thinking on plug wires ? Who has the blue ?

- I found that I just couldnít put back the cream color intake manifold even though it was dishwasher clean (there is a dishwasher incident). I didnít want to go powder route at this point so decided I have nothing to lose by trying Eastwood Aluma Block and CAD Paint System. So far, Iím very happy how itís coming out. Not as nice as a proper strip down and PC refinish Ė but good enough for me at the moment.

Water Bridge cleaned, de greased, washed with acetone and then 3 light coats of Eastwood Aluma Block






Intake runners - this is only 1 coat. I cleaned the injector holes with a dremel wire brush and brake fluid then per someone on the forum plug the holes with foam ear plugs - mine are CVS brand are simply the best




The Front Damper with my first attempt at the CAD 3-paint kit fom Eastwood. BTW, AC caps fit perfectly to protect the damper when washed and painted.

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Old 01-07-2019, 07:50 AM
  #34  
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In my experience, even if you do no other mods, the Ford injectors will make such an improvement in the way the car idles, runs and economy. For the sake of $150.00 for a good reman set, it's worth it.
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:56 AM
  #35  
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Old 01-07-2019, 09:50 PM
  #36  
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Umm you might be be adding to running issues with your CLEANING of the injector bores.
These areas that the injectors sit in have to be a certain size to properly seal,
if you remove the powder coating then the hole will be bigger and thus the O ring will quite possibly not seal as well as it would into a smaller hole ,
add to that the addition new injectors with O rings that might not be the correct size.

I have have had to fix a few of these intake refreshes to correct this issue after the PO did a great job on the refresh but unwittingly created more problems than he fixed.
At this point i would strongly suggest that you have the intake pieces properly powder coated,
this means the injector bores get coated as does everything else .

NOTE tell the PC guy the less they mask off the better the PC job will be ,
always mask off bolt holes and bearing holes and studs ,
its OK if the collars are coated and some of the over spray PC gets inside.

NOTE fit original sized lower O rings to the correct injectors for your year car.

NOTE different years take different impedance injectors so this is a critical item.
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:25 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
Umm you might be be adding to running issues with your CLEANING of the injector bores.
These areas that the injectors sit in have to be a certain size to properly seal,
if you remove the powder coating then the hole will be bigger and thus the O ring will quite possibly not seal as well as it would into a smaller hole
Thanks Merlin. The cleaning removed the carbon/grease build up at the bottom where the injector seats. It should be good as the sides retain the PC but I'll be sure to check that the new orings seat firmly. I installed an old injector last night and they were still difficult putting in and pulling out with old orings.

I have new injectors on the list from Roger but don't actually know which one he sells for the 86.5 S3 and assume they will come with the correct orings.
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:53 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Ramp View Post
Thanks Merlin. The cleaning removed the carbon/grease build up at the bottom where the injector seats. It should be good as the sides retain the PC but I'll be sure to check that the new orings seat firmly. I installed an old injector last night and they were still difficult putting in and pulling out with old orings.

I have new injectors on the list from Roger but don't actually know which one he sells for the 86.5 S3 and assume they will come with the correct orings.

They will, he has them made in batches of 1000 out of Yurp.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:57 PM
  #39  
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Here is the original Sctt Yoo's thread, very informative:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rst-timer.html

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Old 01-10-2019, 04:29 PM
  #40  
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Thanks, I have the SY guide printed and on the workbench - that along with a consortium of other guides. So far things are going smoothly.

GB lines are ordered along with the baffle and should be here on Monday - Thanks Greg for the help ! Also looking forward to the free set of Hazet Limited Edition Screwdrivers ! Anyone jealous ?
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:57 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Ramp View Post
I cleaned up the wire harness. The driver side injector plugs are all bent over. I'm assuming this is how they were initially routed and is ok. Look at the Temp 2 plug - I don't think the wires are frayed but should I redo this connector ? What's involved with splicing a new plug on ?





This is a pretty easy job. Roger has the parts - though Im pretty sure you have to go with black. No blue available. Just need the right crimping tool

Amazon Amazon




Note the last picture does not show the new rubber sleeve. Make sure you put that on the cable before you start installing the new pins and plug.

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Old 01-13-2019, 09:06 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by giddyupp View Post
Just need the right crimping tool
How crucial is the right crimping tool. If done carefully, should be able to make sure its snug - no ?

Some goodies arrived.


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Old 02-06-2019, 06:54 PM
  #43  
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Just finished emergency winter run from LI to Catskills - Polar Vortex almost took its toll on my 87 911. I had moved it for the winter to the Catskills. Heater pipe broke and the house flooded. Drove up and moved the car back to LI - Next day, the sheet-rock garage ceiling over where the car was stored collapsed.

I'm putting the water bridge back and know I'm supposed to orient the thermostat but there's no arrow. Do I orient it so the writing is right side up (from front) and the little ball bearing is on the bottom ? - and what's that ball bearing for ? It was not on the OEM I removed.

Take a look at some rubber. The first is from the throttle body and is barely noticeable until you open the crack, that tube is also flat in the middle compared to new. The fuel line looked fine until I bent it back a bit - then it just snapped like a twig.

In the last pic, I highly recommend these little dremel wheels from Amazon - they do a great job of lightly polishing the mating surfaces.








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Old 02-06-2019, 09:08 PM
  #44  
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The little tethered "ball bearing" is a vapor vent. Goes at the top.
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