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Early 1986 Upper Ball Joint Removal??

 
Old 12-08-2018, 02:18 PM
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buccicone
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Default Early 1986 Upper Ball Joint Removal??

Ordered a 928 Motorsports upper ball joint kit for early 1986 (not '86.5). Followed instructions on a couple of tutorials but my joints don't appear the same after I remove the epoxy and top cap. Doesn't pop out of the "A" arm. In the third picture below is what is there after removal of the epoxy and top cap.

Do I have a later model year upper ball joint & "A" arm? How is the rest of the joint removed?






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Old 12-09-2018, 03:52 PM
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Old 12-09-2018, 05:31 PM
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GregBBRD

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Some things just aren't worth the investment in time and effort.

Just order a rebuilt arm from 928 International. New ball joint, new bushings, new studs, no brain damage, no risk.
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Old 12-09-2018, 07:15 PM
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Majestic Moose
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There should be nothing holding it in at this point, did you try tapping it out?
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Majestic Moose View Post
There should be nothing holding it in at this point, did you try tapping it out?
I thought nothing should be holding it but it appears to be pressed in. I've used a certain amount of hammer. May take Greg's suggestion of a rebuilt.
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Old 12-10-2018, 01:18 PM
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dr bob
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The rebuilt buys you all the bushings as new, in addition to the new ball joint. Unless you are otherwise planning on different new bushings of some sort, the rebuilt arms seem like a better option.

That said, have you reached out to Carl for some specific guidance? He takes weekends off from business, but should be back online/ in the office today to answer product questions. Share back what you find please.
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Old 12-10-2018, 03:10 PM
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Dr Bob. I talked to Carl a couple of hours ago and he wanted to know if I had the longer version upper a arms or the shorter version which is the newer. I measured this early 86 and according to the workshop manual I have the early version which is the non-forged A arms which are the longer version. I am about to call him back for further recommendations. In the meantime I held the shipment of the kit from him
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Old 12-10-2018, 03:51 PM
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I don't know what's worse, doing that project or trying to get to those rusted upper A bolts on the inside of the fender with no room...
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:11 PM
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It was nice speaking with you today. I'm still catching up from being at the PRI tradeshow last week and this weekend.

I do agree that as long as you have it apart, give it a tap or two up from the bottom to be sure that the ball isn't just stuck in there. Seems like no harm done to do that at this time.
You might also try heating the aluminum surround with a MAP torch prior to tapping it up. That might help.

Here is a picture of what it should look like when all apart and laid out:


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Last edited by Carl Fausett; 12-10-2018 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 12-10-2018, 06:47 PM
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Problem solved. Mark Anderson emailed me that he had a rebuilt unit that came in one of his wrecks for $100. Since it turned out that I only need the left side, I decided to go that route. Thanks to Carl for information on the the rebuild kit. Never can thank enough the expertise here. Now to get the new boot on the right side and springing retainer.
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