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Fuel Sender Innards. Repair or Replace Unit.

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Old 12-03-2018, 01:44 PM
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Kamilo77
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Default Fuel Sender Innards. Repair or Replace Unit.

Would anyone in their right mind attempt to repair this. My gauge has never really worked and I found out why. Seems the copper has broken off here.
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Old 12-03-2018, 01:57 PM
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Rob Edwards
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For what used (or new....) fuel level senders cost, definitely fix it. You need some silver solder so you can braze it back to the ground lug on the central steel rod.
Old 12-03-2018, 02:30 PM
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Kamilo77
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
For what used (or new....) fuel level senders cost, definitely fix it. You need some silver solder so you can braze it back to the ground lug on the central steel rod.
Wouldn't this be the low light indicator also. Seems like the other two wires probably control the variable level.
Old 12-03-2018, 03:26 PM
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davek9
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Did one of these last week, it was rusted beyond repair even after soaking in CLR.
Roger suggested a 944 part, gave it a try, the new 944 part (less $) is a direct fit, need to block off a vent pipe the 944 part uses as not needed on the 928.

The old one pictured here came out of a 86.5 that sat for 12 plus years, the inside of the fuel return was almost solid rust.



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Old 12-03-2018, 03:28 PM
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davek9
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Originally Posted by Kamilo77
Wouldn't this be the low light indicator also. Seems like the other two wires probably control the variable level.
Correct, there are two pins (contacts) at the base, when the float touches them the circuit is closed, lighting the light.
Old 12-03-2018, 03:46 PM
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Hey_Allen
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If the nut at the bottom of the screw in the middle of the sender can be removed, you can fix it with a piece of solid ground wire from house wiring cable.

I tried to solder directly onto the brass tab at the bottom of the sender, but was unable to get a reliable joint. In a moment of aggravated inspiration, I bent a piece of ground wire into a loop and sandwiched it under the nut that secures that tab on the bottom of the send, and then bent the wire to the right position to solder the thin return wire onto it.


I was considering a 944 sender, but the one that I found locally went up in price once I arrived at the seller's location, so he got to keep it.
Old 12-03-2018, 03:59 PM
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Mark Anderson
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Originally Posted by Hey_Allen
If the nut at the bottom of the screw in the middle of the sender can be removed, you can fix it with a piece of solid ground wire from house wiring cable.

I tried to solder directly onto the brass tab at the bottom of the sender, but was unable to get a reliable joint. In a moment of aggravated inspiration, I bent a piece of ground wire into a loop and sandwiched it under the nut that secures that tab on the bottom of the send, and then bent the wire to the right position to solder the thin return wire onto it.


I was considering a 944 sender, but the one that I found locally went up in price once I arrived at the seller's location, so he got to keep it.
I've got one for $75

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Old 12-03-2018, 05:14 PM
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Hey_Allen
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Originally Posted by Mark Anderson
I've got one for $75
The "fix" is holding for now, so I'm focusing on getting the engine running right on the car.
I'll keep that in mind for later, though.
Old 12-03-2018, 05:49 PM
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Adamant1971
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Buy a new one and put on the shelf for the future. They are not cheap but I bet they will be much much more in a few years.



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