Fuel Sender Innards. Repair or Replace Unit.
#1
Fuel Sender Innards. Repair or Replace Unit.
Would anyone in their right mind attempt to repair this. My gauge has never really worked and I found out why. Seems the copper has broken off here.
#2
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
For what used (or new....) fuel level senders cost, definitely fix it. You need some silver solder so you can braze it back to the ground lug on the central steel rod.
#3
Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
For what used (or new....) fuel level senders cost, definitely fix it. You need some silver solder so you can braze it back to the ground lug on the central steel rod.
#4
Rennlist Member
Did one of these last week, it was rusted beyond repair even after soaking in CLR.
Roger suggested a 944 part, gave it a try, the new 944 part (less $) is a direct fit, need to block off a vent pipe the 944 part uses as not needed on the 928.
The old one pictured here came out of a 86.5 that sat for 12 plus years, the inside of the fuel return was almost solid rust.
Dave K
Roger suggested a 944 part, gave it a try, the new 944 part (less $) is a direct fit, need to block off a vent pipe the 944 part uses as not needed on the 928.
The old one pictured here came out of a 86.5 that sat for 12 plus years, the inside of the fuel return was almost solid rust.
Dave K
#6
Pro
If the nut at the bottom of the screw in the middle of the sender can be removed, you can fix it with a piece of solid ground wire from house wiring cable.
I tried to solder directly onto the brass tab at the bottom of the sender, but was unable to get a reliable joint. In a moment of aggravated inspiration, I bent a piece of ground wire into a loop and sandwiched it under the nut that secures that tab on the bottom of the send, and then bent the wire to the right position to solder the thin return wire onto it.
I was considering a 944 sender, but the one that I found locally went up in price once I arrived at the seller's location, so he got to keep it.
I tried to solder directly onto the brass tab at the bottom of the sender, but was unable to get a reliable joint. In a moment of aggravated inspiration, I bent a piece of ground wire into a loop and sandwiched it under the nut that secures that tab on the bottom of the send, and then bent the wire to the right position to solder the thin return wire onto it.
I was considering a 944 sender, but the one that I found locally went up in price once I arrived at the seller's location, so he got to keep it.
#7
The Parts Whisperer
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If the nut at the bottom of the screw in the middle of the sender can be removed, you can fix it with a piece of solid ground wire from house wiring cable.
I tried to solder directly onto the brass tab at the bottom of the sender, but was unable to get a reliable joint. In a moment of aggravated inspiration, I bent a piece of ground wire into a loop and sandwiched it under the nut that secures that tab on the bottom of the send, and then bent the wire to the right position to solder the thin return wire onto it.
I was considering a 944 sender, but the one that I found locally went up in price once I arrived at the seller's location, so he got to keep it.
I tried to solder directly onto the brass tab at the bottom of the sender, but was unable to get a reliable joint. In a moment of aggravated inspiration, I bent a piece of ground wire into a loop and sandwiched it under the nut that secures that tab on the bottom of the send, and then bent the wire to the right position to solder the thin return wire onto it.
I was considering a 944 sender, but the one that I found locally went up in price once I arrived at the seller's location, so he got to keep it.
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#8
Pro
#9
Buy a new one and put on the shelf for the future. They are not cheap but I bet they will be much much more in a few years.