Need help with mangled drain plug
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Need help with mangled drain plug
I’m in the middle of draining the coolant for the first time so I can do some work on the water bridge. I was able to get the passenger side drain plug out and that has drained. However the driver's side was previously rounded by one of the PO's and my attempts to remove it have made it worse.
It's in there tight! I’m able to get good grip with a visegrip Pliers but it will not budge. The vice grips just turn off the bolt.
I've sprayed it a bunch with PB Blaser and tapped it with a fairly heavy steel hammer. I don't want to hit it too hard for feet of doing some damage to the block.
Thanks for your help in advance!
It's in there tight! I’m able to get good grip with a visegrip Pliers but it will not budge. The vice grips just turn off the bolt.
I've sprayed it a bunch with PB Blaser and tapped it with a fairly heavy steel hammer. I don't want to hit it too hard for feet of doing some damage to the block.
Thanks for your help in advance!
Last edited by Michael Benno; 12-01-2018 at 10:40 PM.
#2
Rennlist Member
I had the same issue and was able to smack on a socket smaller than the original size, I forget the size. I got it loose this way.
#3
Team Owner
will the engine run? if so run it for about 5 mins then use whatever tool you have to loosen the bolt
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tried that too. Had to bust out the sae but no bite
#5
Rennlist Member
Hi Michael,
See if you can get a two foot long steel pipe over the end of the vice grips with the tightening screw. Make sure it's tight and give it one try warm, and with improved leverage. Also, make sure the vice grips are on just like in your picture, so that the loosening torque squeezes the grip closed, rather than forces it open. I'm amazed how well a cheater bar works.
Good luck,
Dave
See if you can get a two foot long steel pipe over the end of the vice grips with the tightening screw. Make sure it's tight and give it one try warm, and with improved leverage. Also, make sure the vice grips are on just like in your picture, so that the loosening torque squeezes the grip closed, rather than forces it open. I'm amazed how well a cheater bar works.
Good luck,
Dave
#6
Team Owner
One other thing I forgot to mention get a big sledge hammer and hit the bolt head into the sealing washer ,
you wont get much of a swing thats OK,
The weight of the mallet should deform the sealing ring a bit so the plug comes free
you wont get much of a swing thats OK,
The weight of the mallet should deform the sealing ring a bit so the plug comes free
#7
Race Car
I think the vise grips are your best bet. Since its tight up there try routing a ratchet strap around the end of the grip handles and wrap the lose end around the stoutest most structure that ends up pulling on the handle in as close to a 90 degree angle you can get. Then use the ratchet to apply the force to grip handle.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Michael,
See if you can get a two foot long steel pipe over the end of the vice grips with the tightening screw. Make sure it's tight and give it one try warm, and with improved leverage. Also, make sure the vice grips are on just like in your picture, so that the loosening torque squeezes the grip closed, rather than forces it open. I'm amazed how well a cheater bar works.
See if you can get a two foot long steel pipe over the end of the vice grips with the tightening screw. Make sure it's tight and give it one try warm, and with improved leverage. Also, make sure the vice grips are on just like in your picture, so that the loosening torque squeezes the grip closed, rather than forces it open. I'm amazed how well a cheater bar works.
will the engine run? if so run it for about 5 mins then use whatever tool you have to loosen the bolt. One other thing I forgot to mention get a big sledge hammer and hit the bolt head into the sealing washer ,you wont get much of a swing thats OK, The weight of the mallet should deform the sealing ring a bit so the plug comes free
Here are the tools I've been using. I was thinking maybe a smaller pipe-wrench would give me the proper leverage, or maybe a more round jaw vise grips.
I am going to take a break tonight and will hit it with PB blaster and tapping for a day or two while I gather options
#9
Team Owner
well your not going to heat it unless you use a oxy ace torch as the coolant is still in the side your trying to drain,
these blocks absorb lots of heat fast when they have liquid in them,
now if the waterpump is off then that could be enough to drain the block.
With no coolant in the block it will heat up pretty well but it still takes lots applied heat
these blocks absorb lots of heat fast when they have liquid in them,
now if the waterpump is off then that could be enough to drain the block.
With no coolant in the block it will heat up pretty well but it still takes lots applied heat
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#14
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
+1 on the left handed external bolt extractors. Tap the correct size one on, add a long extension, turn it out.
#15
Three Wheelin'
Had this happen on the 79. Dont heat the bolt head. Heat around the area. Once hot, like really hot, get a spray can / bottle of dry ice with a spray nozzle and spray just the bolt head. Don't forget all the safety sh$t required for this stuff. Put on whatever tool you have and undo. I used a pressure sprayer and got the ice from a gas supplier.