What Happened? - '81 Euro Blue Smoke
12-01-2018, 10:53 PM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hello I have some good news. I pulled the spark plugs and they were not wet but they were carboned up two more than the other six. I mentioned before that its running a bit rich. The exhaust. tips on this car angle up a bit and I now think some rain water got inside the pipe and made the steam that I thought was a head gasket failure. New plugs and a good drive and she seems to be happy. I think I will change the exhaust tips to something a bit more parallel. Thanks for all of the feed back everyone.
12-01-2018, 10:59 PM
#18
Team Owner
put a bottle of techron in the fuel as well as some marvel mystery oil
12-02-2018, 09:34 AM
#20
Team Owner
FWIW anyone reading this thread in the future you should be aware that if your bringing a 928 back to life ,
On initial startup you should have the engine run for atleast 25 mins and,
preferably have driven it for 50 miles before you start to worry about exhaust smoke.
I have had more than a few cars startup and blow clouds of smoke like it was a bug spray truck.
this is water and oil that have accumulated in the exhaust system.
And if the car has cats the smoke will be incredible and begin smoking almost as fast as the engine starts.
At any rate, unless you see 10 ounces of water or more pouring out the tail pipes ,
just let the engine run it will burn off the stuff in the pipes.
On initial startup you should have the engine run for atleast 25 mins and,
preferably have driven it for 50 miles before you start to worry about exhaust smoke.
I have had more than a few cars startup and blow clouds of smoke like it was a bug spray truck.
this is water and oil that have accumulated in the exhaust system.
And if the car has cats the smoke will be incredible and begin smoking almost as fast as the engine starts.
At any rate, unless you see 10 ounces of water or more pouring out the tail pipes ,
just let the engine run it will burn off the stuff in the pipes.
12-02-2018, 11:03 AM
#21
Drifting
Hello I have some good news. I pulled the spark plugs and they were not wet but they were carboned up two more than the other six. I mentioned before that its running a bit rich. The exhaust. tips on this car angle up a bit and I now think some rain water got inside the pipe and made the steam that I thought was a head gasket failure. New plugs and a good drive and she seems to be happy. I think I will change the exhaust tips to something a bit more parallel. Thanks for all of the feed back everyone.
12-02-2018, 11:38 AM
#22
FWIW anyone reading this thread in the future you should be aware that if your bringing a 928 back to life ,
On initial startup you should have the engine run for atleast 25 mins and,
preferably have driven it for 50 miles before you start to worry about exhaust smoke.
I have had more than a few cars startup and blow clouds of smoke like it was a bug spray truck.
this is water and oil that have accumulated in the exhaust system.
And if the car has cats the smoke will be incredible and begin smoking almost as fast as the engine starts.
At any rate, unless you see 10 ounces of water or more pouring out the tail pipes ,
just let the engine run it will burn off the stuff in the pipes.
On initial startup you should have the engine run for atleast 25 mins and,
preferably have driven it for 50 miles before you start to worry about exhaust smoke.
I have had more than a few cars startup and blow clouds of smoke like it was a bug spray truck.
this is water and oil that have accumulated in the exhaust system.
And if the car has cats the smoke will be incredible and begin smoking almost as fast as the engine starts.
At any rate, unless you see 10 ounces of water or more pouring out the tail pipes ,
just let the engine run it will burn off the stuff in the pipes.
To add to this, if you have a 32v car and just changed the spark plugs but have not done a cam cover refresh. Don't be too shocked if you get a good amount of smoke on start up. It's due to the oil that collects in the plug holes (seeps from the O plug seals) and it's just the oil burning off that poured in to the cylinders. Always fun on cars that have never had the covers refreshed.
12-02-2018, 03:57 PM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
the plot has changed. I went out to drive the car and the brake peddle went to the floor. The car started smoking heavily with strnge smelling white smoke. I think the vacuum diaphragm in the brake booster has ruptured and the engine is pulling brake fluid into the intake and burning it. That's not as bad as ahead gasket failure the funny thing is I drove it yesterday and I had brakes although I did add some fluid.
12-02-2018, 07:01 PM
#24
Team Owner
Well thats a strange failure,
Please make sure that you are replacing
The brake booster, with an ATE booster
NOTE you should have a 10 inch booster if not then you will be getting one,
and you will need the 10 inch booster clevis as its a different size from the 9 inch version.
The inlet check valves both of them, one is big and one is small
Get a new 4 way vacuum tee
The feed hoses to the big check valve, bet yours are original and very hard
The master cylinder and its pressure switches, with an ATE MC
Also order a liter of Gold ATE brake fluid,
A new set of Stainless steel brake lines
Roger has all of this
NOTE to remove the tank put some PB blaster into the inlet grommets then pull the tank free,
use the towels you put under the MC to catch the fluid.
NOTE to clean the tank drain it then rinse it with CRC brake cleaner then drain it
then use some simple green and hot water shake vigorously then drain
a few cycles of this should remove all the old stuff, use a toothbrush to scrub the tank it will look new.
Then pour about 3/4 of an ounce of alcohol into the tank and shake it around,drain it.
Then use a hairdrier to blow warm air into the tank this will evaporate all of the water and the alcohol.
NOTE use Dow Corning 111 on the new MC tank grommets make sure you smear that DC111 on any bare/unpainted surfaces ,
also use it on the MC base gasket where it bolts to the new booster, and the rubber cup over the test port on the tank.
Dont scratch the booster mating surface.
NOTE the DC111 is for rust prevention, when you take your old MC apart you will find the tank inlet bores are corroded,
the DC111 will prevent water from corroding the metal
To bleed it
install the new booster then bolt on the MC,
fit the B nuts from the lines to the MC,
make sure they are tight on the fender side as once you install the tank you cant reach them.
Plug in the tank,
use DC111 on the grommets.
Add in the new brake lines.
Fill the tank open one B nut at a time and let the air bubbles out you cant do this on the fender side of the MC .
once the air is out,
have a helper press the pedal and open the tip bleeder, pump a few times till the air is gone.
Then go back and pump the pedal while cracking open the b nuts work from the booster forwards.
Once no air then go to the wheels and do LF RF LR RR,
this is opposite what you might have done but its posted in the WSM.
NOTE use Gold ATE brake fluid
Please make sure that you are replacing
The brake booster, with an ATE booster
NOTE you should have a 10 inch booster if not then you will be getting one,
and you will need the 10 inch booster clevis as its a different size from the 9 inch version.
The inlet check valves both of them, one is big and one is small
Get a new 4 way vacuum tee
The feed hoses to the big check valve, bet yours are original and very hard
The master cylinder and its pressure switches, with an ATE MC
Also order a liter of Gold ATE brake fluid,
A new set of Stainless steel brake lines
Roger has all of this
NOTE to remove the tank put some PB blaster into the inlet grommets then pull the tank free,
use the towels you put under the MC to catch the fluid.
NOTE to clean the tank drain it then rinse it with CRC brake cleaner then drain it
then use some simple green and hot water shake vigorously then drain
a few cycles of this should remove all the old stuff, use a toothbrush to scrub the tank it will look new.
Then pour about 3/4 of an ounce of alcohol into the tank and shake it around,drain it.
Then use a hairdrier to blow warm air into the tank this will evaporate all of the water and the alcohol.
NOTE use Dow Corning 111 on the new MC tank grommets make sure you smear that DC111 on any bare/unpainted surfaces ,
also use it on the MC base gasket where it bolts to the new booster, and the rubber cup over the test port on the tank.
Dont scratch the booster mating surface.
NOTE the DC111 is for rust prevention, when you take your old MC apart you will find the tank inlet bores are corroded,
the DC111 will prevent water from corroding the metal
To bleed it
install the new booster then bolt on the MC,
fit the B nuts from the lines to the MC,
make sure they are tight on the fender side as once you install the tank you cant reach them.
Plug in the tank,
use DC111 on the grommets.
Add in the new brake lines.
Fill the tank open one B nut at a time and let the air bubbles out you cant do this on the fender side of the MC .
once the air is out,
have a helper press the pedal and open the tip bleeder, pump a few times till the air is gone.
Then go back and pump the pedal while cracking open the b nuts work from the booster forwards.
Once no air then go to the wheels and do LF RF LR RR,
this is opposite what you might have done but its posted in the WSM.
NOTE use Gold ATE brake fluid
12-03-2018, 12:41 PM
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hi Stan before I remove the master cylinder do you have any idea of what part could have failed to allow the vacuum to pull the fluid into the intake. I have not taken apart anything like the master cylinder apart before. I will be looking at the manual..Thanks for any insight.
12-04-2018, 05:01 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
The rear seal inside of the master can fail. Pretty common and is the main cause of booster failures; fluid getting inside of it and destroying the diaphragm.
I'm glad to hear it wasn't a headgasket. They're a pain to deal with in my experience
I'm glad to hear it wasn't a headgasket. They're a pain to deal with in my experience