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Ready to change motor mounts. What else while at it?

 
Old 11-19-2018, 01:46 PM
  #46  
captainOCD
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There's a very slight incline in the garage for the water to drain, but yeah, it took 11 quarts. I'll find somewhere flatter and double check it again. Pretty much every drop of oil was out of the motor by the point it got filled back up.
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Old 11-19-2018, 01:48 PM
  #47  
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You are a fast worker!

No complaints about reinstalling the cross member? And you did it single-handed? Remarkable.
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Old 11-19-2018, 02:17 PM
  #48  
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Getting the crossmember out was a bit tricky because the engine mounts kept getting it wedged. Thinking back I should have left a bolt in each one of them until I got the crossmember down instead of unbolting them ahead of time. Maneuvering it back it didn't give much trouble, especially with the motor mounts bolted to the engine already. Getting the bolts started to hold it in was a bit tricky because of the new mounts being taller. Should have just raised the motor a bit more to make that easier.
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Old 11-19-2018, 05:38 PM
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Damned fine job, captainOCD!
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:22 PM
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Drove the car to work today. Still have some vibration around 75mph, but doesn't seem tied to engine speed. Otherwise the car seems to drive very smooth now. The center console also heats up a lot less now with the engine sitting higher.
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:32 PM
  #51  
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And here's my poor attempt at recording the job.

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Old 11-22-2018, 08:51 AM
  #52  
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Nice Job! About to tackle this myself, and your posts & video help a lot.
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Old 12-09-2018, 03:41 PM
  #53  
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Default Feels like I just gave birth - to Ed China!

Just completed my MM install. No spider eggs, but 3 screws, a nut, 2 washers, and a 1/4" drive socket extension, from the mechanics work, stuck to the oily grime on the cross-member.

I don't have any special techniques to add to all that has been posted on this process, except I changed the shocks at the same time. The coil-overs come out pretty easy with the LCA disconnected from the chassis. You have to remove the wheel well liners to get them out (no need to mess with the upper A arm or ball joints). Also, I didn't remove the oil filter or Alternator - seems to be fine, though one oil sump bolt (front left one) was a challenge to get to with the Alt. in place. Although I bought new rack bushings, the existing ones were solid, so I kept them in place (rack is fairly new - replaced by the PO).

The oil pan had practically no sludge (128K miles), but did have a washer collected at the bottom. I refitted the sump using a cork gasket.

Shocks were all shot. The rears, which were replaced by the PO, had only half of a bump-stop left. The fronts, which I believe were the originals, had no bump stops remaining. The spring height collars all loosened up after hit with some WD-40 degreaser. Working on this 928 from Texas is a pleasure - no rust, corrosion - everything just loosens up. The same garage (in Texas) worked on the car since it was out of warranty (I have all the work orders) - they did a tight job!

When I needed a break from crawling under the car (on jack-stands), I covered over the brake/ABS wiring with 3/8" dia. split plastic wiring conduit that I got at Lowes, Works great and clips right in to where the pulverized rubber wiring grommets used to go. I also purchased the stainless brake hoses, but will install at a later date.

After a quick drive, the low frequency vibration near idle has definitely been attenuated with the new MMs. The engine seems to be running smoother. I haven't noticed too much difference with the new shocks in such a brief ride, and I may never (I've only driven the car ~700 mile since I bought it). But, at least I know the suspension is sorted. Thanks to all who have posted instructions, tips and tricks to help with the process.
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Old 12-09-2018, 03:44 PM
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I also found a washer in my oil pan. Figured it was from a pan bolt or something, but maybe not.
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:52 AM
  #55  
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My washer was larger and thinner than a sump bolt washer - it's gone now...

I just did the final torqueing on the LCA rear bolts. Not having any reasonable ramps, I tried it at ground level - not a problem at all for me.
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:55 AM
  #56  
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My washer was quite thin also. I think it's still sitting on my workbench.

As an aside, my steering wheel is a bit off center now since doing that job, so I'm gonna have to get it aligned. Still drives perfectly straight down the road though.
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Old 12-10-2018, 10:12 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Adk46 View Post
You are a fast worker!

No complaints about reinstalling the cross member? And you did it single-handed? Remarkable.
Just going over this thread and saw your comment - At first, I had a problem getting the cross member back in. I had the MM loosely bolted to the engine, and just couldn't get the heat shields past them (myself - on my back). Then I tried to mount the MM to the cross member first - no go - much heavier and they would go past the oil sump. Then I tried to mount one on and on off - ain't happening. Went back to loosely mounting them to the engine. I lifted the cross member up, then grabbed it by the heat shields, and was able to deflect the heat shields outward so they passed the MM - easy peassy!
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Old 12-10-2018, 10:14 AM
  #58  
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My steering was also off - I just pulled the wheel and moved it one spline for now. An alignment is also in the future.
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:55 AM
  #59  
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Default Warning - Check clearance to P/S hose

On mine, raising of the engine with the new mounts has put the P/S pump pulley in close proximity to the nearby P/S hose. Statically, there is clearance, but when the engine rocks, it makes contact with the hose. I noticed "cleaned surface" on the round on the pulley, and a wear indentation on the hose. Temporarily, I raised up the P/S reservoir to increase clearance, until I replace the hose. Keep an eye out.
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