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Oil filler and crankcase ventilation baffle for supercharger application

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Oil filler and crankcase ventilation baffle for supercharger application

 
Old 12-09-2018, 12:23 PM
  #46  
worf928
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Why don’t you (didn’t you) drill a small divot in the baffle to make room for the OE part?
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Old 12-09-2018, 01:27 PM
  #47  
Michael Benno
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Originally Posted by worf928 View Post
Why donĺt you (didnĺt you) drill a small divot in the baffle to make room for the OE part?
That would have been a decent idea too. However I wasn't sure how thin the aluminum is at the interference point and I didn't want to create an non-anodized area from drilling and frankly I don't have good tooling to hold the baffle and drill into a 45-degree bevel. I figured modifying the plastic was the easiest and cleanest for me.
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Old 12-09-2018, 02:28 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Michael Benno View Post
That would have been a decent idea too. However I wasn't sure how thin the aluminum is at the interference point ... and frankly I don't have good tooling to hold the baffle and drill into a 45-degree bevel. I figured modifying the plastic was the easiest and cleanest for me.
Ah. It wasn't obvious that the plastic weld bump wasn't on the flat part of the insert.
and I didn't want to create an non-anodized area from drilling
That part would be so-bathed in oil that it wouldn't matter.
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Old 12-10-2018, 12:15 PM
  #49  
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Hey guys. Sorry I am late to the party, was at the PRI show.

Yes, a small modification is required to the 87-95 cars in that filing down the driver side plastic weld "bump" on the original filler is required. Drilling a clearance hole on the aluminum part would go through the chamfer, so it was not a very good option. I wanted to make sure there was enough clearance between the wall of the block chimney and the side outlet of the baffle, so that was a small compromise. The modification is quick with a razor, grinder... etc, and will have no effect on the integrity of the plastic filler. The earlier cars with the metal stamped baffles require no modification.

I included o-rings so no goop/sealant is required. They are a full size o-ring, just curl up to look like a lot of smaller o-rings in the baggie. They are a bit of a pain to fit the first time, and may require a bit of stretching, but as soon as they sit in the groove completely, they quickly retain memory and stay in place quite nicely.

I did not use the factory o-ring groove shape, because they cost almost $10 now, and who knows how much in the future (or they could go NLA). These are commonly available for around $1.50

Any other questions, just let me know. I will be around all week.

Thanks
Hans
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Old 12-10-2018, 02:47 PM
  #50  
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FYI Coating the O-ring with oil helped with holding it into the groove while mounting the baffle on the block.
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