UKKid35

Thanks Jon, I have used them before to check a starter motor for me

Going to order a Beru GER004 unless someone advises against

I know this is not Bosch, but Porsche does use Beru as OEM for some parts (I think), however is 14.5V too high?

According to the vendor:

dr bob

-- The 14.5 voltage is marginally too high IMO. IIRC the component ratings in the LH and fan controller boards, for instance, are 15V. It's also tough on flooded-cell batteries. Most folks are concerned about the low-RPM capability while stuck in traffic with cooling fans and AC on high. Unless you have a capability curve that shows a number that makes you happy, waste no time adapting one of these.

-- The cooling hose cover for the back is specific to the Bosch alternator. Unless the proposed Beru replacement is an exact physical match on the rear section, you'll loose the cooling air.

Per my notes the alternator I used is a Bosch AL130X rebuild. I needed to adjust the clocking to get the terminals in the same orientation as the factory piece, which involved removing the regulator and brushes assembly, then remove the four through-bolts, lift the rear case (with the stator windings) and rotate it relative to the front section with the brackets/pulley/fan/armature included.

Do that same disassembly of your old one, looking at the condition of the slip rings on the back end of the armature. If they are way worn, I'd just get the rebuilt unit. If not, replace the two bearings and get a new Bosch regulator complete with new brushes. Clean, assemble, install, good to go with all of the normal wearing parts as new. Less than an hour of work all in if you have the pieces in front of you.

SRaouf

If you want someone to give your alternator the once over you can send it to
https://www.burghfieldstarterandalternatorcentre.co.uk/
near Reading. you can send it by courier for around £10. They charged me around £50 to take it apart, check, clean, paint and test it, and to fit a new regulator (which I supplied)

andy-gts

hmm

dr bob

Re-reading this thread from the beginning, I'll add that you should look carefully at the ignition switch, focusing on circuit 15 contacts. 15 Supplies current to several systems including the instrument cluster and the alternator excitation, on top of the ignition and a few other critical systems. 15 Has several contacts in the switch, all of which need to be working. The telltale symptom of the dash warning lights as if the engine is actually running is a telltale of possible ignition switch issues.

For the regulator with brushes, this link to 928 International online catalog is a good place to start. http://shop.928intl.com/Voltage-Regu...28-603-142-00/

UKKid35

That is extremely helpful, I will have to investigate that at some point

I'm not even sure whether the dash light issue is persisting as the car is not being used as it needs a new windscreen before it will pass its annual roadworthiness test

Thanks for all the other info as well, much appreciated

UKKid35

I'm glad I didn't spend any time investigating the dash light issue

I hadn't used the car at all until the weekend when I needed to get the road worthiness certificate, and now it's managed to fix itself

Sadly the annual test did reveal a few more pressing issues to which I need to attend - oh well...