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S4 LH and Fuel Pump relays won’t engage

 
Old 02-21-2019, 03:28 PM
  #16  
Kevin in Atlanta
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Originally Posted by Shark2626 View Post

ok, I will put it back in. I have a spare of that kickdown relay as well.

in XXII is a 53 relay, I didn’t know that it has a significance???

ETA yes, auto transmission
That is the correct relay. Good. Just want everything in its correct place.
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:31 PM
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Stooopid stuff:

The fuel pumps and the injection relays get power via dedicated power feed wiring direct from battery positive in the boot. Those smaller red wires attach to the positive post with either an extended stud or a piggyback bracket with screws for each wire. Regardless, those connections MUST BE clean and tight. Else the pump will run weakly or not at all, and the injectors won't pull in since the LH relay isn't getting correct voltage. Further, the FP relay feeds the unfused heater in the oxygen sensor too, if you want to get deep into possible causes. Since you were undoubtedly fiddling in the battery well as an early part of the start effort, look again there and make sure the connections are all clean/shiny and tight.
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:33 AM
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Make sure that you don't have any relays in spaces that are meant to be empty. Same with fuses.
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bob View Post
Stooopid stuff:

The fuel pumps and the injection relays get power via dedicated power feed wiring direct from battery positive in the boot. Those smaller red wires attach to the positive post with either an extended stud or a piggyback bracket with screws for each wire. Regardless, those connections MUST BE clean and tight. Else the pump will run weakly or not at all, and the injectors won't pull in since the LH relay isn't getting correct voltage. Further, the FP relay feeds the unfused heater in the oxygen sensor too, if you want to get deep into possible causes. Since you were undoubtedly fiddling in the battery well as an early part of the start effort, look again there and make sure the connections are all clean/shiny and tight.
you’re right I had cleaned everything in there, but I did it again today to be completely sure. went ahead and pulled every fuse and relay to double check everything, didn’t find anything out of order.

still no love from this car!

i had read somewhere on rl that all three crucial relays can be jumpered, I’m considering doing that but I’m a bit nervous. probably shouldn’t be.

also, since the car ran hot, is there something, anything, that could have been damaged to affect the fuel pump or LH ability to receive the correct signals? what do they share in common?

if I pull all of the fuel injector connectors and test with a multimeter (battery connected and or disconnected) will I potentially find the problem?

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Old 02-22-2019, 08:35 PM
  #20  
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before you do anything else remove the bell housing and do a crank end play check.
Make sure to remove the rear pinch bolt and inspect the drive shaft to verify it is centered in the slot,
and the bolt is not damaged. reinstall the rear pinch bolt firt with a drop of blue loctite and torque to 66 ft/lbs,
then tighten the front pinch bolt after you have pried the flywheel to the rear of the car.

Next remove the intake tubes and put the engine to TDC ,
you can look down the cam cover vents to verify the timing marks are correct.
Inside each tube is a small V this will line up close to the indentation on the front side of each cam pulley.

any chance you can post a full picture of the CE panel in your car.

Also go and reclean all of the battery connections.

Last edited by Mrmerlin; 02-22-2019 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
before you do anything else remove the bell housing and do a crank end play check.
Make sure to remove the rear pinch bolt and inspect the drive shaft to verify it is centered in the slot,
and the bolt is not damaged. reinstall the rear pinch bolt firt with a drop of blue loctite and torque to 66 ft/lbs,
then tighten the front pinch bolt after you have pried the flywheel to the rear of the car.

Next remove the intake tubes and put the engine to TDC ,
you can look down the cam cover vents to verify the timing marks are correct.
Inside each tube is a small V this will line up close to the indentation on the front side of each cam pulley.
.
is this recommendation intended for the fellow that is replacing hoses???

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Old 02-23-2019, 07:11 PM
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i don’t have any experience with the car running,
I bought it this way as a project to build up over time.

the previous owner (my neighbor) told me that it started running rich and that that got worse until it overheated so he parked it, then no start.

NOTE If this is your starting info then what i would suggest is this.
Note this is for all 87 S4 on,
check the timing belt is timed correctly.
Next would be a crank end play check.
Next verify the battery is fully charged,
Next verify the 4 running relays are working.
Next would be to swap in another MAF
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Old 02-23-2019, 07:35 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
i don’t have any experience with the car running,
I bought it this way as a project to build up over time.

the previous owner (my neighbor) told me that it started running rich and that that got worse until it overheated so he parked it, then no start.

NOTE If this is your starting info then what i would suggest is this.
Note this is for all 87 S4 on,
check the timing belt is timed correctly.
Next would be a crank end play check.
Next verify the battery is fully charged,
Next verify the 4 running relays are working.
Next would be to swap in another MAF
ah, I follow. iirc the full timing belt service was done by the po abt +/- 5 years ago, pulled the covers first thing to inspect and it looks sharp. the battery is new and always on a charger. the maf is rebuilt. the key 53 relays are all new.

if I can just figure out why the new fuel pump won’t run unless it is jumped and why the (rebuilt) fuel injectors are not firing. it starts with starter fluid (runs like crap, but it starts). I was wondering if I had a bad “out of the box” new bosch cps sensor, as has been noted by several owners on rl, but I don’t think it would start with starter fluid if that was the case.
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Old 02-23-2019, 10:58 PM
  #24  
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If the alarm is tripped, you risk these symptoms. For grins -- close all the doors, hood, hatch. using the LONG alarm key (not the red valet key), cycle the driver's door lock to LOCKED, then UNLOCKED, then open the driver's door. If the alarm had been tripped, this should reset it.
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Old 02-24-2019, 05:55 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dr bob View Post
If the alarm is tripped, you risk these symptoms. For grins -- close all the doors, hood, hatch. using the LONG alarm key (not the red valet key), cycle the driver's door lock to LOCKED, then UNLOCKED, then open the driver's door. If the alarm had been tripped, this should reset it.

i have literally read about every no start 928 on rl that I could find to try to use their ultimate solutions, none have worked thus far. sadly there are many threads that just end with no update on finding the solutions. I did try the door unlock trick, and then went on to jumping the alarm control box to disable it entirely, no luck.

since I have the covers off of the key 53 relays I can close the circuit with a piece of plastic. I tried that a little bit ago with the non functional LH relay, key off & battery connected. I hear a single closing of something from the engine bay (passenger side I think) when I do that. what would engage when the LH relay is engaged? I kind of want to jumper it and the fuel pump relay and give it a go, your thoughts??

Last edited by Shark2626; 02-24-2019 at 06:25 PM.
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