I am in trouble.
 

Dont know what i was thinking but I bought a 928 unseen and apparently it only needed a fuel pump which was provided.
The car has been sitting around for many years so i expected to clean the fuel tank do the timing belt, plugs water pump and all the standard bits that i have been reading about.
Anyway I lift the bonnet and there is a plug just hanging loose on its lead with the hole in the head exposed.
Also there is a puddle of white liquid in the V and a fair bit of oil inside the intake plenum. V liquid looks like more water than oil Is there any water lines there that could have leaked.
I did think the head gasket however the engine oil is very clean on the dipstick yet to drain.
Anyway I was intending to pull all that down but my main issue is the plug not installed.
The car was a runner and not seized before it stopped. But the owner bought as is and now I have the problems.
I am thinking the head needs to come off however if I stick a borescope into that cyclinder and all looks good or even give it a ltittle vacuum can I hope that all might be well.

Besides all the other reasons that I have read many threads about that would mean a 928 wont run.

Greg
1984 928S Auto

Lesson No1: tell us what model/year you are talking about and whether it is a manual or auto tranny.
Lesson No2 - post some pictures- there are a zillion plugs on these cars

By the way as I dive into the manuals can anyone pinpoint what this hose pipe is for or goes to. RHD.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d94f7599d7.jpg

Yes sorry.
1984 928S Auto RHD.
The plug was one of the spark plugs.
Just hanging in the breeze attached to the lead and head open.
I am still thinking boreascope and see whats going on in there then if bad head off if good then move on replacing everything and eventually see if it starts.
If its head off it will be a long time waiting.

When you put the air filter box back in place (assuming you have one) it sits into that hose. It's part of the basic emissions control system.

Greg,

Folks on this list like to see owners brave enough [dumb enough?] to take on these basket cases and bring them back to full running order and better. No car likes to be left like this for long periods of time and the 928 is no exception and then some.

If the engine was left with a spark plug missing that of course will do not good whatsoever. A boroscope inspection would be a good start. If the car was sat in a location prone to high levels of humidity then obviously more to fear. The 928 motor has a number of points where coolant can leak into the Vee, most notably the water bridge at the front of the engine and there are a couple of coolant nipples that can and do fail [there is a thread covering one such item a few days ago].

The open hose on your photo mates into the bottom of the airbox if that is what you refer- part of the pollution control kit of the day.

If you do not know how long the motor has been sat and have no idea of the history then pulling the motor and the heads is no bad things as head gaskets can suffer long term issues and corrosion at the top of the cylinders on the water jacket side is sadly quite common. If you have the capability, pulling the motor and resealing it top to bottom is a good bet long term. This gives you the opportunity to determine more definitively whether the motor has deeper issues. As I recall your motor will have studs fastening the cylinder heads and if correct it means the engine has to be pulled to remove the heads. Many consider this a good thing.

Thats some good news i have a feeling something has seeped in there.
I looked under the air cleaner cover...obviously not hard enough. Unless it was upside down.
The previous owner said he pulled the lead to check for spark but forgot to put it back.
I am assured it does turn over as he has done it. Might be a good or bad thing but i am going to check the cam positions as a first analysis step.
I have been reading about these cars for months and haven't scratched the surface.
I had a game plan for when it arrived that is now on its head. But I will learn heaps and enjoy the challenge.
I just wanted to drive it first before all the big tasks had to happen.
But it was cheap and a conscious decision to go through everything.
My 7 year old has agreed to help otherwise he cant drive it when he is sixteen.
Hope it is running by then.

It seems like there is one of these adventures each week. Is the 928 gaining interest?

Grepin,

I'm in Adelaide as well and can help out whenever needed. I have lots of tools and a fair bit of experience with 928's now.

Cheers
Scott

It can be very rewarding to bring these beasts back from near-death. It can also be frustrating in the midst of a job when nothing seems to work as it should. More pictures though...post up some more pictures!

Not sure what to say about someone who pulls a plug to check for spark and the just...leaves it out? I've done some pretty dumb stuff too but...damn...

Did he take he plug out??

I believe you said you had a hole in your head. That is a prerequisite around here. :)

Welcome to the shark tank.

1984 is likely not an interference engine. However, it might be, so be careful. with what info we have, here's how I'd go at this one.

1. Buy an aerosol can of "carb/fuel inj cleaner" and a can of WD-40 or AU equivalent. Spritz a bit of lube in that open plug hole. Leave the plug out.
2. Take off the intake tubes, and look down the holes to check the cond of the timing belt. Or, take off one side of the cam gear upper cover, and have a good look at the belt and path.
3. Provided the belt and cam gears look ok, try to rotate the engine by using the big bolt and breaker bar on the nose of the crank. Clockwise, as standing in front of the front bumper please. Stop if there is hard resistance, not like compression.
4. If the engine rolls around without any mechanical interference for two revolutions, take the breaker bar off, and crank the engine briefly to clear any schmootz that got into that open cyl.
5. Another small spritz of WD-40(or equiv) into that plug hole and put the plug back in, and the ign wire on the plug.
6. With the air cleaner removed, and while a helper(or son) cranks the engine from the driver seat, spritz the 'carb/fuel inj cleaner' from the aerosol can into the MAF. It may fire up briefly.
7. Stop here for a while an do all the catch-up stuff like fresh oil, filter, coolant, fresh fuel.
8. Remove the fuel pump relay, and jumper the fuel pump pins 30 to 87. go to the rear bottom and listen carefully for the fuel pump buzzing. If it buzzes, go to the engine bay and carefully look for fuel leaks. (all hoses will be replaced sooner rather than later)
9. If no fuel leaks, try to start the car. If it starts, check your oil pressure for 4-5 bar.

This is just to get your mind at ease, still a lot of work ahead, but this is a primer for what comes later.

Doc is always right, but personally I would pull all the remaining plugs to do that test. That way there should be little resistance and you wont have to wonder what is compression and what is something else. Assuming the plugs are reasonably willing to come out.

Hi everyone thanks a lot.
My decision has been made to start pulling the intake side down top end remove and replace all spark plugs and at the same time have a look at all the cylinders.
Pull the injectors and any fuel related devices and have them checked.
Replace all fuel lines gaskets and water bridge related bits and pieces.
Then the top will be done.
Pull the covers off the cams to the point I can check tension and that the cams gears align.
Look for leaks and worn gears etc. Check tension-er (might go Porken later)
Clean the fuel tank its been empty for a long time and replace fuel pump and filter. Remove in tank pump and replace with mesh filter. Car came with a new fuel pump in the boot.
Not going to do the cam belt or water pump at this stage if I dont have to just trying to get to starting phase. To be done later once i know I have a runner.
This is where you may need to throw some technical help my way DeWolf when I suspect she wont fire for some other electrical reason. Appreciate the offer.
With that thought I have a new fuel relay and all fuses to be replaced in the CE panel.
So I am chasing what I need to have checked or just replace related to the top end side CPS, coolant temp sender unit and other stuff that is hard to fault find later or can ruin your day when the key is turned.
Basically a shopping list.
Searching on here so no need to answer unless you feel like it.
But it will be slow going need to be smart with the cash flow.
I will post pics and keep people informed.

Call Roger, he ships to AU. 928sRUS.com. Sounds like a good plan. I hope you don't invest a bunch into an engine that has internal problems. My steps would tell you if you have a V8 or a V7, or internal mech damage with maybe 2 hours work and $10 in supplies.

Do what Doc suggests before you throw lots of $ at it, and Karl as well.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

I have a leak down tester you can borrow.

Is it a twin dizzy engine?

Yep twin dizzy
Leak down tester handy to know.
I guess they are best when engine is warm.

Greg

So a happy day today.
I followed Docs instructions but just phase 1.
Cam belts looked ok..to me anyway pic provided.
I had the missus crank it and it wanted to fire. Took a bit and I nearly gave up but the missus said one more go.
The fuel tank is in need of a clean out it hasn't had fuel in it for years.
I lifted the sender and its a mess in there.
Plus it has a gungy internal fuel pump which I will discard for just a strainer.
I am busy next weekend then away for work so you wont hear from me for a while.
I considered running it from a Jerry can but I dont want to blow the place up.
Also the lights pop up, the windows work, the indicators work the fan works, the sunroof tried to but I didn't want to push it. Better it stays closed.

Thanks again for every ones help.

Greg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3339c8abb6.jpg

Prob time for a couple of pics.
The best I have until I take it out of the garage for a decent clean.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e9dbd5405b.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ebd144f62a.jpg

Off to a good start there! If the fuel looks very grungy, I suggest a cleaning pass. Find something like Caltex Techron fuel system cleaner, coiuple of bottles in less than a half tank, and bridge the pump relay(30->87, short wire with male spade tags both ends) and let it run while you explore other things, for as long as you can, with a fire extinguisher handy. Best relay bridge is a couple of metres of 2 core flex, with male spades one end (to plug into relay socket), and a switch the other end, so you can turn the pump on/off from the engine bay, or at the rear. This will circulate fuel and start cleaning dried crud into the filter - do this before you change filter obviously. Check the insides of the distributor caps, clean well. Ceal the rotors. Clean the ends of the plug leads 1 AT A TIME! Pull the plugs and replace them. Be VERY careful trying to remove the internal pump, it shouldnt take much torque to loosen it, and too much can loosen the threaded insert and you are in lots of trouble - BTDT myself!
jp 83 S

Im going to drop the tank and do it properly then I can best manage getting the old pump out,
Plus do the rear hoses at the same time.
But yeah the switch jumper wire is a good idea with length.

To get the tank out you will need the rear end higher than you might think, because of the length of the filler neck. Check the condition of the short hose from the return line into the gauge unit - it only took a small tug and mine came right off the steel tube, as the crimp was ineffective. I used a new piece of hose and a quality jubilee clip to replace it, while the tank was out. In cars without an in-tank pump, the leads for that pump were just taped up back along the loom at the factory. You will need new foam strips to cushion where the tank rests against the bodywork when you reinstall it. Be careful with the bolt that holds the filler neck up at the filler flap, as the alloy moulded into the filler neck is prone to corrosion. When I did my tank the rear hoses were available, but its a while ago now. One of the engine bay hoses was NLA, but I think it was the return line. I suggest you fit something like Firesleeve over the front hoses to protect them from exhaust manifold heat - take a hose as a sample so you get the right size. Also a good idea on the power steering hoses.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Thanks again. Great tips.

Enzed down at Wingfield have done all my fuel hoses, power steer hoses and oil cooler hoses. Very good at what they do and cheap.

Replace all the fuel hoses under the hood before you drive it or you risk burning the car to the ground. Contact roger at 928srus to get them. Or you can get from Greg brown in California. You'll find him on rennlist.

So it's a goer. Now you can get busy on hoses, pump, oil, filters, and cleaning. I think you're gonna be happy in a few months.

Progress is always good.

The sunroof is likely 'gunged up' by old and gummy lube.

There's a really good writeup on disassembly, cleaning & adjusting it in the 'New Visitor" sticky, last page.

If you want to trade those 928 tele dials for a set of polished 928S manholes...........

Looks Like a great project. It will take a little time to get it where you want it, but it will be worth it. Take your time and stick with it. Work is not that hard, just time consuming. Oh and Congratulations!!

DeWolf- What are these wheels you talk about?
I sent you a PM as well.

These wheels are known as manholes. In my opinion the 928 had tele dials and the 928S has these wheels.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...763514e000.jpg

Think I like the Teles better.

Tank out and clean
 

How clean is clean needed to be.
I have done a lot of scrubbing and pretty much had enough.
There are a couple of dags here and there but they wont budge or are hard to get at.
The internal fuel pump came out ok albeit in bits.
I am not replacing it just sticking in a strainer.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e9c598f9db.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...29276bf4c9.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9fa37c8b8d.jpg

That second photo looks pretty clean enough to me. I soaked mine in Tide and water overnight and power washed the next day for 7 days straight before I got all of the varnish I could see removed.

The concern I would have is that the threaded fitting looks like it was "repaired" using some silicone. Could be a source for future leaks.

Could you throw some abrasive in there and shake it for a while? A buddy of mine made a parts cleaner with a hand sander, a metal bucket, and a couple pounds of walnut shells (or some damn stuff). He was cleaning parts from an old Eclipse he's turning into a hill climb car, and it was doing a bang-up job. So, maybe bolt the sander to a chunk of plywood and ratchet strap the tank to that?

Good ideas. I did wonder about the thread area as it didnt look factory. However it is hard and not soft like silicon and did not leak with water in it soaking.

I had a new fuel hose made up today. The one that attaches to the filter outlet.
Pretty happy for $30

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f5c9de6a88.jpg

Enzed?

Yeah thanks for the tip.

Verify the hose is Ethanol safe. It must be for use with Ethanol fuels or you will be in a world of hurt later.

I can check I asked for the best they had.
I dont intend to use ethanol blended fuel.
But I guess any fuel could have ethanol in it.
Are the original Porsche hoses Ethanol safe?

It's illegal in Australia to sell with fuel with ethanol in it without it saying so at the pump. Any ethanol blended fuel must be labelled as such.


At service stations

All pumps dispensing ethanol blend petrol must clearly display one of the following:

• the words 'Contains up to x% ethanol' (where x is no less than the percentage of ethanol in the petrol); or
• the words 'Contains y% ethanol' (where y is the percentage of ethanol in the petrol).

Didnt think we had to worry about it.

So I am attempting the fuel tank install today and when placing some vibration strips on I noticed 4 gray areas like one seen in my picture.
Are they meant to have padding as well. Looking at other threads its not evident.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...224420a7fd.jpg

Just realized I ordered the wrong fuel hose for the strainer. I knew it was different from the in tank pump version but grabbed the wrong number.
Was hoping to try and run it today. Looks like it will have to wait.

I dont recall where I applied foam cushion on the body now. Can you seen any marks on the tank where the cushioning contacted it? Your shaded area looks like it is in a hollow area, which wouldnt make sense to contact the tank. Looks more like a place where there was a label of some sort?
jp 83 S

Yeah looked at the tank no real signs. And agree must have been a label for your reasons stated.

Can only suggest you apply something wet/sticky to tank top and upper sides, push it up into place, remove and look for where it has left marks....?
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

OK sounds good but I haven't seen anyone else on the threads I have read place padding there.

This thread from Dwayne shows where one strip goes, and on the cradle straps.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...re-w-pics.html
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

So a couple of Hiccups today.
First the fuel hose so I need to reorder.
Then some gorilla has rounded the connection to the fuel filter so its stuck in there.
Finally I would like to ask if the fuel sender should be so hard to seat.
Wont seem to get past the lump around the lip of the sender. I have pushed reasonably hard but wont go.

Cant quite visualize your problems from that info. Which fuel filter connection do you refer to - pump to filter or ? Note that the 'S' pipe (pump outlet to filter inlet) is regarded as consumable because they frequently get twisted and go out of round, so if that happens its not unusual. New copper washers please. You should have a new rubber seal for the gauge sender where it goes into the tank. You may need a little vaseline to ease things in, but I dont recall having any problems. The BIG nut that holds the sender into the tank goes on easier if you warm it up with hot water. If you get the sender in place, but 1/4 turn anti-clock from final position, then put the big nut in place loosely, then you can turn the sender clockwise so you can feed the return hose (clip already on) onto its pipe without stressing it. Do NOT yank on the short return hose, it can easily come off the hard return line, then you need to drop the tank to get it back on - BTDT!
If the gauge sender resists going down fully , check the white cup on the bottom is true - it goes into a weir stuck on the bottom of the tank, and may take a bit of jiggling to get it to fit. Some people have big trouble getting it out because it snags on the weir. There might be a pic or PET diagram in the thread linked above.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Yeah the S pipe.
Copy the weir as pic above it falls into there fine.
I feel like I am talking about minor stuff when others are doing engine rebuilds and full dismantles.
But i guess it all starts somewhere.

84 S AT RHD

I got the sender in. Wouldn't go in with thumb pressure. Put a hammer handle on it and lent on it. Also got the female off the male connection. Removed it from the filter and stuck a rattle gun on it with the other bit in the vice. Its back in but will need a new S pipe next time I do a filter change.

The beauty of this place is that you can get help with almost anything. People who get, or should get $125/hr to turn a wrench, offer their experience here just to keep these cars performing. A simple question may help some first-time shark DIYer to buy a car he wouldn't otherwise consider and save a car that was on the way down.

It all goes into the mix.

Well she ran today.
Only one false start and then she fired up no worries.
I hard wired the fuel pump using a switch through the relay socket and checked for fuel leaks then went for it.
Seems to idle quite nice.

So I stuck a new Fuel relay in today to see if it would run without the jumper in.
I got nothing. Maybe its a wrong relay. Still runs with the jumper switch in.
Pic below. But it does run so happy.
Also interestingly when I removed the block coolant plugs only the first one drained.
I thought both should drop coolant from what I read.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...47c4eb752f.jpg

CIS cars need a signal from ignition that engine is turning (pin31), but L-jet cars use the AFM to trigger the pump - which injection is your car?
Both block drains should give fluid - sounds like one is blocked by crud - poke around with a small screwdriver, file end until you get coolant.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

It is a LH jet injection.
I am thinking the relay is not getting the signal to energize.
The jumper between 30 and 87 does work however.

AFAIK LH only requires a stock '53' relay - try putting the horn relay in there.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

OK. Will do.
I was just reading how the LH ECU is meant to send a signal to the fuel relay to energize it.

When I look at this the horn and the fuel pump relay have different part numbers. Hence why I got what I did.
When I got the car it had no relay in place so I cant go by what was in there.
Is your 83 the same as the 84 I wonder. Mine is a late 83 but has the LH and the 4 speed so basically an 84.
Just wondering if our CE panels are the same.

https://www.928gt.com/default1.htm

Pull the trans relay out and try and start it then. It may be the wrong relay.

So I had a quick play around.
Removing the Auto start relay didnt let the car turn over at all.
I put the horn relay in and it worked. It did need to crank it a bit so I am not sure if it is priming before turning over.
The car starts quicker with the jumper switch in.
However when I look at this relay chart the 83-84 Euro the horn and the fuel pump relay have different part numbers.
What part number do I need then? What gives the fuel pump that initial prime function? Is it the relay?
But all good progress I was thinking I may need to have the LH ECU overhauled.
83-84 Relays
Position
Description
Part#
I-II
Rear Defroster
928.615.115.00
III
US/Not used -Euro/Window WInder
141.951.253.B
IV
Alarm (US 84 Only)
141.951.253.B
V
Indicator(turn) Flasher
1H0.953.227
VI
Window Winder
928.615.116.00
VII
Headlamp Washers
928.618.111.00
VIII
Not Used

IX
Kick-Down Relay - Auto
928.618.109.00
IX
Kick-Down BRIDGE - 5-Speed
928.615.125.01
X
Twin-Tone Horns
141.951.253.B
XI
Not Used

XII
Foglights
928.615.117.02
XIII
Intermittent Wiper Delay
993.615.101.00
XIV
Start-Relay (auto)
141.951.253.B
XIV
Start-Bridge (manual)
928.612.473.00
XV
Intensive Washers
928.618.113.01
XVI
Fuel Injection
928.615.119.00
XVII
Fuel Pump
928.615.113.01
XVIII
A/C Condensor Fan
141.951.253.B
XIX-XX
Combination Headlight
928.618.107.02
XXI
Fresh Air (HVAC) Blower
141.951.253.B
XXII
Defroster
141.951.253.B

Greg,
The 84 Euro uses some different relays than the US 84. One of them is the fuel pump relay. The 84 Euro uses a standard 53 relay. The US model uses the relay number that you have posted. Change your fuel pump relay for a standard 53 relay and you will be on the right track.

Thanks for the confirmation.
Looks like I got confused by the US version.
Its been hard to find a good diagram of a Euro 84 CE relay and fuse panel.

Noticed a leak from looks like the fuel tank strainer. I didnt put it on very tight from the start. I nipped it up a little more and the leak got worse.
Maybe the O ring has been pinched. Think I need to pull it out to check.
I went from an in tank pump to a strainer set up.

The strainer should have a flat rubber gasket under it - at least thats what mine has. An Oring to me has a round section......
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Yeah it is flat.

I am pretty happy in my insignificant 928 world.
I drove around the block today.
I stopped the tank strainer leak by doing it up some more, to 22 NM torque.
The car ran with a normal 53 relay in the fuel pump spot.
Oil pressure started at 5 and dropped to around 3 when warm.
My aircon is not cold (no real surprises).
No great amounts of smoke or anything blowing.
Seems to run ok considering the MAF is saoked in oil, the spark plug that I did see looked average and the injectors are in unknown state.
Next is to pull the inlet side down check injectors, maybe send off the MAF and new plugs.
Fix whatever is leaking into the V (waterbridge etc) maybe an oil baffle to stop the blow bye into the intake (opinions please).
However need to do some house repairs first. That was the Porsche deal from the wife. Get it to running stage then house work.

And Scott if your reading this there are some tele dials for sale in Adelaide on Gumtree.

Good work! Oil pressure is normal - pegged >5 cold, dropping to 2-3bar hot, same as mine. Check every water hose for cracks, replace as needed. Check hose clips for tight. If sump is oily, check all sump bolts , but note that they should only be 7-8 ft/lbs torque - more will squash the gasket out and leak more. I put star washers on my bolts, helps to keep them done up. Replace the plugs with spec Bosch copper, not fancy modern stuff.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k CIS

Congrats. That's the hard part done. Getting it running. Now start by replacing stuff. Again mate, if you need a hand let me know.

Those tele's are only 15". My 79 is a manual so 16" was standard. On another note, just sold the 86 5.0 manual. Going to restore the 79 back to better than factory. Unfortunately had to be realistic and can't juggle work / business, family and two resto's.
I think once the 79 is done I want to build an LS3 Boxster S.

Thats a crazy amount of work ahead of you.
Thanks for the congrats.
I have just been having a closer look at my cam gears and they look a little polished.
The belt is still on but I am thinking the worst. I may be up for some cam gears.
Might as well pursue something that can be adjusted.
I am thinking a good second hand set will be hard to come by.

Hey Grepin - if you need Cam Gears, 928 International (A USA Dismantler) is having their annual 50% off sale. There's a thread here about it.

Thanks I had posted in that thread but no good.
Just having a think about things when i took it for a short drive under load it had a vibration from the rear.
I am now wondering if I have TT issues to go with it. Might be above my capabilities but will need to stress that one once the engine side is all good.
Can the TT bearings be done without dropping the trans?
Anyway I wont be able to get a better feel for it all until I have her properly on the road.

Re rear vibration, I would start thinking about simple stuff - tyres, wheel balance, suspension bushes, drive shaft joints, brake calipers, even wheel nuts before jumping to expensive areas. All these are easy to check & correct . TT bearing failures are fairly uncommon, and usually start with noises - rumbles etc - long before it gets to vibration, based on my readings. If it has sat for some time maybe a tyre has developed a flat spot? Nylon belted tyres are bad for this, and it takes some heat to get rid of it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Yeah cool. I know for a start I need to go through all the brakes. The rears were frozen and I just freed them up enough to go for a short test drive.
It has sat for a few years. I will work with what I can control for now and get the engine all sweet do the brakes get it on the road and see what squeaks and rattles show up.
Visually things look OK but mean nothing I guess. One of the rear drive shaft boots looks a little oily might mean something.

What is your thoughts for cam gears just go for stock or chase an upgrade that may allow timing adjustments.
Also this had a fair amount of oil inside intake shall I get one of the after market baffles.
I am hoping a lot of the V sludge was a result of the water bridge leaking both oil and water.
Just putting a list together of what I need to order.

Thanks for posting.

Post a pic of your cam gears so we can see their condition. Adjustable timing is pretty much unobtainable now that Porken is not doing 16v timing kits. Try to clean the V without killing any electrics and see if there are still any leaks. There were some changes to the drive shaft boots 83-84, so send your VIN when you enquire about new boots. Also lookup CV boot installation tricks on youtube. The left shaft can be a PITA due to the exhaust pipes. If there is visible damage on the working surfaces inside the joints, some recommend swapping the shafts side for side. If you have to undo the shaft hub nut to free the shaft , be ready for big torque figures > 250 ft/lb, 3/4 drive recommended. I undid mine - for LHS, socket on nut, end of bar on ground to the rear, roll car backwards - reverse for RHS.
Do you have soft form manuals?
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Yeah I have soft copies of manuals I downloaded.
Not the best to read but ok.
Here are a few pics different angles and flash on off.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8cd621a730.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4b76823570.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...dc426bfadc.jpg

They dont look any worse than mine - I would slap a belt on, overhaul/clean up the tensioner etc, and just keep an eye on it every few months, depending on the mileage you do. Seems to be running nice and true.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Well my fuel leak came back. Seems to be consistent with running the car.
I think I found the issue. A small slit in the mating lip that pushes against the gasket. Seen around the 0930 mark.
I am hoping to fill it with some form of fuel resistant filler.
Hope not to drop the tank.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a85159fc33.jpg