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Thats a crazy amount of work ahead of you.
Thanks for the congrats.
I have just been having a closer look at my cam gears and they look a little polished.
The belt is still on but I am thinking the worst. I may be up for some cam gears.
Might as well pursue something that can be adjusted.
I am thinking a good second hand set will be hard to come by.
Thanks I had posted in that thread but no good.
Just having a think about things when i took it for a short drive under load it had a vibration from the rear.
I am now wondering if I have TT issues to go with it. Might be above my capabilities but will need to stress that one once the engine side is all good.
Can the TT bearings be done without dropping the trans?
Anyway I wont be able to get a better feel for it all until I have her properly on the road.
Re rear vibration, I would start thinking about simple stuff - tyres, wheel balance, suspension bushes, drive shaft joints, brake calipers, even wheel nuts before jumping to expensive areas. All these are easy to check & correct . TT bearing failures are fairly uncommon, and usually start with noises - rumbles etc - long before it gets to vibration, based on my readings. If it has sat for some time maybe a tyre has developed a flat spot? Nylon belted tyres are bad for this, and it takes some heat to get rid of it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Yeah cool. I know for a start I need to go through all the brakes. The rears were frozen and I just freed them up enough to go for a short test drive.
It has sat for a few years. I will work with what I can control for now and get the engine all sweet do the brakes get it on the road and see what squeaks and rattles show up.
Visually things look OK but mean nothing I guess. One of the rear drive shaft boots looks a little oily might mean something.
What is your thoughts for cam gears just go for stock or chase an upgrade that may allow timing adjustments.
Also this had a fair amount of oil inside intake shall I get one of the after market baffles.
I am hoping a lot of the V sludge was a result of the water bridge leaking both oil and water.
Just putting a list together of what I need to order.
Post a pic of your cam gears so we can see their condition. Adjustable timing is pretty much unobtainable now that Porken is not doing 16v timing kits. Try to clean the V without killing any electrics and see if there are still any leaks. There were some changes to the drive shaft boots 83-84, so send your VIN when you enquire about new boots. Also lookup CV boot installation tricks on youtube. The left shaft can be a PITA due to the exhaust pipes. If there is visible damage on the working surfaces inside the joints, some recommend swapping the shafts side for side. If you have to undo the shaft hub nut to free the shaft , be ready for big torque figures > 250 ft/lb, 3/4 drive recommended. I undid mine - for LHS, socket on nut, end of bar on ground to the rear, roll car backwards - reverse for RHS.
Do you have soft form manuals?
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
They dont look any worse than mine - I would slap a belt on, overhaul/clean up the tensioner etc, and just keep an eye on it every few months, depending on the mileage you do. Seems to be running nice and true.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Well my fuel leak came back. Seems to be consistent with running the car.
I think I found the issue. A small slit in the mating lip that pushes against the gasket. Seen around the 0930 mark.
I am hoping to fill it with some form of fuel resistant filler.
Hope not to drop the tank.
11-30-2018, 06:58 AM
