TB/WP finish up
09-17-2018, 06:20 PM
#16
Drifting
Slide underneath the front and look up. On an 89 you may need to push aside the thin plastic ‘blinds’ - they justbpop back into place when you’re done. With the plastic out the way you should see the underneath of the latch - you need a long screwdriver or pry bar and good light to push the spring over to left side of car. That will release the latch.
09-17-2018, 09:58 PM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Memphis, TN 1987 S4
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Haven’t driven the car but while idling I noticed the temp gage didn’t move after 10 min. I did change the WP and thermostat. Do I need to open thermostat housing back up?
09-17-2018, 11:52 PM
#19
Team Owner
are the connectors clean at the temp sensor?
To swap in a new hood cable,
jack up the LF ,
then remove the wheel ,
remove the inner fender liner,
then the front block off plate.
Look carefully along the top edge of the inner fender you will see the cable and how it routs,
you can then remove the driver side parcel tray and then install the cable from inside the car
To swap in a new hood cable,
jack up the LF ,
then remove the wheel ,
remove the inner fender liner,
then the front block off plate.
Look carefully along the top edge of the inner fender you will see the cable and how it routs,
you can then remove the driver side parcel tray and then install the cable from inside the car
09-18-2018, 08:39 AM
#21
Drifting
If you're lucky the handle assembly has just fallen apart, so you needn't install new cable, but it's likely you will have to. Installing a new cable does involve removing the old latch so you can attach new cable. It's riveted onto slam panel, but the rivets drill out easily with 5mm drill (they are pretty soft aluminium).
You need four new rivets and a hand riveter to re-attch the latch. The rivets are 4.8mm. Porsche part is 999.190.128.30 but very widely available elsewhere. Attachment to the latch is easy — it's just a screw holding the inner cable down.
I've changed handle on both a 1988 and a 1991. They were both RHD, but the 1988 was easier as the bowden cable entered footwell through a grommet accessible from behind wheel liner. In the 1991 the cable entered cabin at rear corner of engine bay. I couldn't get direct access to the grommet, so I had to tie eyelet on new cable to old cable, so I could pull it through from inside cabin. The entire routing was through engine bay so there was on need to remove wheel liner, but I only discovered this with liner off!
Maybe the RHD cars are different in this respect, but follow the cable back from the latch in case you can skip removing wheel liner.
09-19-2018, 07:02 AM
#24
Drifting
The bad news is that the handle likely broke because the cable action was stiff. You can loosen things up by spraying white grease into the lower latch, and also by putting some white grease on wire end of cable just where it exits outer sheaf on its was towards the latch.
