checkmate1996

I restore 928s. The one I'm currently working on looked more like yours when I got it. After trying to pull out leaves, nests, hives, mud from every crevice, it would have been easier to pull the engine. Plus, you will most like to need to replace all the gastkets, rubber, fuel lines, oil pan, engine mounts to sort it right. ... the early 79s are not has hard to pull as their is more space... and since you need to pull the upside down radiator...you are 25% there... ;P

Hey_Allen

Ah, that makes a lot more sense now.

For me, with the whole car landing in my lap as a surprise opportunity, there is no budget for a full restoration, at least not at this point in time.
I did get about 90% of the leaf litter and debris out of the engine bay and cowl using a small hose on a vacuum.
The radiator plumbing was relatively easy, since it didn't need to come out, instead I just removed the drain plug and the hose nipple and swapped them. They share the same thread and o-ring seal design, almost like Porsche intended the radiators to be universal between the generations of cars...

Since it's not a particularly collectable car, being a low powered 4.5L early body, and missing loads of bits here and there, I'm not particularly worried about making it a full bare-metal restoration.
I'm just happy to be playing with it as a project to keep my hands busy for however long it takes to get it running.
If I eventually get to the point that I can budget the shop space and expense to do the in depth detailing and body work, I'll either be sending it off to a shop, or more likely refining my own skills. Since I'm not a bodywork professional, I'll likely snag some practice parts from the same scrap hauling friend and work on my repair and spray technique.
I'm not an automotive professional, needing to turn the cars around for a living, so I don't mind taking my time and doing it slowly.

karl ruiter

According to PET, that should be 928.618.103. Is that possible? It should be in position XI and called 'diode group'. At some point is was superceded by 928.618.105, the ac compessor relay. I assume it does the same thing. You might want a copy of PET for this as it is pretty clear what should be in what slots for different years etc.

Hey_Allen

I knew I was forgetting something...
I'd emailed one of the vendors here about buying one of the CD sets and was quoted a price for the documentation, but was still waiting for the title to show up before taking possession of the car.

Thanks for the info on the "diode group", none of the years of current flow diagrams that I have show the earlier part, and the early years show two relays, one with some smarts, the other a basic SPST relay.

checkmate1996

Roger that! Enjoy!

Hey_Allen

I decided to dig into the various electrical issues a bit further, last night.
I found why the previous owner had removed the ignition switch from the lock assembly as well.
When I reinstalled it, I found that turning the key would never allow it to reach the crank position, but turning the switch alone with a screwdriver would engage the start position and then spring back to the on/run position.

I've searched a bit, but all the threads that I am finding are either the lock getting stuck, or the switch being inoperable.
Does anyone know anything about the lock not moving through the full range of motion, or having to index the switch a particular way to get it to work in the lock?

Other than that, I did get a few more electrical systems back to operation, but the headlights are still possessed of a mind of their own, possibly due to the relay with the pair of diodes being out until I can get a replacement for it.
I eventually disconnected the headlight motor power wire to prevent the constant cycling until it can be pursued further.

Inspecting the radio, it turned out that someone had physically installed it, but it was not wired other than the antenna being connected.
The stock chassis harness had been cut below the radio, and crimp spliced at some point in the past, and then cut on the extended wiring as well.
There was another bundle of what appeared to be aftermarket speaker wires tucked in under the trans tunnel left side carpet, and then also cut off next to butt splices in those wires.

Removing the incorrect and inoperable radio cleared space to more easily inspect the warning display and the HVAC panel above it.
The HVAC panel will take some work or replacement, as the retaining clip for the heat selector cable housing is no longer able to be secured to the housing. The plastic where it was intended to clip into has broken off, so the cable housing just flops around in the dash when the slider is moved. I should be able to reach up in from the left side of the dash and push it into the HOT position to help purge the cooling system, once I get the engine running.
The heater blower does not operate at any speed, but I didn't get to that yet, other than working the connector on the side of the HVAC panel a few times to clear some of the oxidation (but forgetting to apply the DeoxIT D100 while I had it open.)


Today, I'm planning to do some more inspection of the fuel system, hopefully I'll be able to find whether the CIS has any fuel flowing through it, or if it's completely gummed up or corroded.

Hilton

Did you end up verifying whether the car has spark?

Hey_Allen

Yes, the spark was tested, and it has a nice hot spark.

I'm really thinking that the fuel system is plugged somewhere, but I'm not sure where it may be, yet.

The fuel that was in the tank was nasty, but it had only changed color and stunk. It did not appear to have turned to jelly or lacquer yet.

I need to crack one of the lines on the engine loose and see if I have any flow there, or if the system is gunked up back at the filter or accumulator.

Hey_Allen

Further testing found no fuel at the WUR, and electrical testing indicated higher than 10 amps being drawn by the pump.
It looks like I will be pulling the filter and checking for flow there, next.

jpitman2

My CIS (single) pump pulls 7A. You really need to test fuel pressures at the WUR before going much further. Make a pump relay jumper - a couple of yards of 2core flex, 2 1/4" male spade tags one end (to go in relay sockets),. a momentary switch at the other end, so you can remotely turn the pump on/off. Fire extinguisher handy! Crack open the outlet of the WUR, pump on should produce significant fuel - if not open inlet joint. if you get fuel at in;et but not outlet, WUR is blocked - common. If no fuel at inlet, problem with delivery. Disconnect return line at cam cover, run into container with hose , run pump - should get ~1350ml in 30 secs - if not suspect pump, filter.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Hey_Allen

karl ruiter

So, the way the control pressure works is that system pressure fuel passes through a small metering hole inside the FD that provides a fixed resistance to flow, and then to WUR that provides a temperature and load dependent resistance to the flow, which then returns to the tank. The pressure at the inlet to the WUR is then used at the FD to influence the fuel to the injectors. So, if you do not have fuel to the WUR my first guess would not be your fuel filter, but rather the metering hole in the FD. Also, in addition to the fuel filter, there is a secret fuel screen built into the inlet fitting of the FD. This is designed to remove any crud that comes out the lines between the filter in the back of the car and the FD in the front. It easily gums up with old fuel and blocks. This would be my second guess.

jpitman2

Re the headlights - there is a rotary switch inside the motor housing. When the relay says 'raise the lights' the copper wipers are supposed to tell the relay when the lights are up to stop the lifting motor and turn the bulbs on - if this switch is damaged or corroded or fouled with grease this may not happen and the lift motor will keep going. There is a 4 way connector involved - clean the wires and make a note of which colours go where BEFORE separating. Disconnect the motor, remove, open and correct anything wrong inside. NOTE that the link that connects the motor to the light lifting bar is retained by an E clip - if this clip falls off, or the link otherwise comes adrift, it has been known to poke a hole through the radiator!!!
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Hey_Allen

The part that is confusing me on the headlights is that they were going up and down with the switch, before I started working on the CE panel cleaning.
Only once the panel was removed and cleaned and reinstalled did the motor start running continuously, and even then, it didn't start moving immediately.

I have not done anything at the motor other than cleaning and DeoxIT on the connections once the motor had started running continuously.

Hey_Allen

While testing the hazard flasher circuit, I found out that I had switched the M and N harnesses on the CE panel.
​
When I bridged the turn signal relay, the rear turn signals illuminated as expected, but instead of the front signal bulbs the headlights turned on.

I am also getting occasional fuel pump cycling as other circuits (marker lights, switching to the right mirror and back...) are energized, hinting at poor ground connections that I haven't been able to get clean yet.