16vsilverstreak

928S MN

Model year of your car is?

Chalkboss

Broken Y connector at charcoal cannister in passenger fenderwell is another common culprit.

16vsilverstreak

dr bob

The hose you show in the picture is a balancing line that allows vapor in the top of the main/middle section escape to the filler neck. Without that the tank has a capacity limited to the top of the elephant-trunk elbow. That section can easily have liquid in it if the tank is filled up into the neck. Folks commonly cut that hose when dropping a tank, then cry when they find the cost of replacement. It's possible to fit a straight piece of hose, but getting the bends in a straight hose without kinking is more than a casual challenge. Dropping a tank? Remove the clamps and disconnect the hose rather than cutting it. If there's any evidence of checking in the rubber, replace with new. If you smell fuel mostly when the tank is more than about 3/4 full, replace that hose.

The hose going forward in the car passes through a liquid trap then on to the carbon canister in the RF wheelhouse. Similar fabric-covered hoses there connect through a Y fitting to the canister and a purge valve in the engine bay. The plastic Y is a known weak point. Inspect and replace as needed. Support the connecting hoses completely and you'll help that fitting last a lot longer.

The level sender and return line are accessed through a hole in the luggage boot floor. The tank has a threaded collar holding the sender assy in place, and the fuel return line from the engine bay comes to that area with a hose connection between the steel line and the sender nipple. Replace that hose, and inspect the seal where the collar fits over the tank. Leaking fuel leaves a telltale stain on the dirt on the tank there, so you'll know quickly just by visual inspection if that's the source of the fuel fragrance.

16vsilverstreak

docmirror

I've had good success with this stuff;


To slip over standard fuel hose, and make fairly sharp bends. You need to work with it a bit, and form it by hand, but once you have it formed, it will retain the cylindrical shape, even in pretty sharp bends. It also provides some scuff and abrasion resistance if one uses standard fuel hose, with no braided cover. A zip tie near the end of the braid will keep it from unraveling. I did this in an old Lamborghini with 6 carbs, and lots of little bendy hose sections.

dr bob

Nylon or PE marine/RV water hose connectors should be OK for fuel vent lines, but... That hose loops over the right rear "frame rail" next to the tank though a hole. Pass the new hose from the filler neck end through the hole as you lift the tank into place, and make the last connection on top of the main section through the sender access. All before the tank goes up snug into its cavity. new rubber protection strips on top and at the straps will help avoid rub-through.

Petza914

Also check the connections to the Fuel Accumulator in the rear passenger side fender.