It's not just Motul it's the entire industry. So feel free to take on the oil industry and convince them otherwise. Any further banter on this subject in this thread is useless conjecture and you know it.
This debate didn't start with Motul (use Google, if memory serves this all started around the turn of the century) and learn about some history on the subject instead of just trying to stir the pot here.

Start here:
http://www.synthetic-oil-technology.info/
Convince them to update this website around the proper definition of "synthetic" and get back to me.

Go ahead and update the Wikipedia page too:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials.

So again, leave Motul alone since they are simply using industry acceptable terms and go scream at the oil industry windmills instead of dragging this thread down. OK?

One thing I have noticed running Motul 300V oil in different engines is the fact that the Motul oil stays very clean, very amber over time. Most other oils turns black after a rather short time of use. Is not the Motul oil doing its job cleaning the engine?
Åke
https://www.oljemagasinet.se/image/c...4h53O-PuL.webphttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c326208999.jpg

Is that a picture of an engine running Motul?

Yes...but*

(Start from the top)

Yes, a BMW Alpina V8.
Åke

Motul 8100 5W40 Xcess and Max 0W40 VOA
 

Thank you for the introduction and it is great to see someone from Motul here.

I did send two clean oil sample to the lab as per the attached results. i did hand write the % of deviation from published value on Motul website for these oils. not sure why there is diffrences
both samples are from jugs with less than two years date stamp since manufactured . also i did shack the bottles good before taking the samples.

also i have couple of questions please :-
1- the TBN values using the FTIR method are lower than the official TBN values , i am attaching a page of a white paper that might explain the difference but not sure if that apply here.

while searching online came across the issue of Low-Mid SAPS vs Full SAPS and the correlation between that and carbon build up in DFI/boosted engine.
as i am planing on using the 5W40 in the summer month in a 2016 cayenne turbo , with a secondary CAT delete and a piggy Back tune. also installed Denso IKH22 spark plugs and cosmos performance coils.
is it better to use the 8100 X-Clean or X-cess 5W40 . of course both are A40 Porsche approved oils.

or just use the 8100 Max 0W40 year round.

thank you for the help , and looking forward hearing from you.
Hussien

I thought racing oil didn't contain the same amount of cleaning additives hence the oil stays clean.

I am getting more and more confused. You who has followed this thread know what severe problems I have had with oil sludge in a BMW Alpina V8 engine using the Motul 300V 15W50 motor oil.
I have used the same kind of oil in the blue Strosek 928S4 1987 car. Today I removed the valve covers to see how much oil sludge I could find and to my surprise it was no sludge at all, both the valve
covers and the cylinder heads are as clean as they can be. So time for new oil and as I have plenty in stock I will continue using the Motul oil for the Porsche but not for the Alpina. However the question is coming up why did the Motul oil cause so much oil sludge in the Alpina but not in the Porsche? Someone has mentioned the BMW Alpina crankcase ventilation system?
Removing the valve cover from my wife´s old Volvo or my BMW six is a matter of minutes. Removing the 928 valve covers took several hours and I cannot remember when I did swear so much.
Åke
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f1901576d7.jpg

Sorry, catching up and reading through the thread where you discuss the issues. Is it correct that you waited over two years to change the 300V in the Alpina each time? How many miles was it driven? I imagine you drive the other vehicles more?

Sludge is generally caused by contaminants like fuel, water, etc. affecting the oil over time. There can also be a separation of the additives in the oil with changes in temperature after sitting for a couple of years. As Nick mentioned, a racing oil heavy in esters, like 300V, is typically changed after a few track days or around 2-3,000 miles and will be more prone to the separation than a product designed for prolonged street use. If you put less than 5,000 miles on a vehicle in 2 years than I would not recommend our 300V product. Our 6100 or 8100 products are designed for prolonged protection and may be better suited for your use. With regards to approvals, Motul 8100 and Specific synthetic products have approvals from BMW (LL-04, LL-01, etc.). Shoot me a PM if you have additional questions as we have covered all that we can with regards to the Alpina, considering many of the unknowns that could have affected the product over that time period. - Nolan

Hi,

Let me answer about trasmission oil. I have a 928 used as a track car. I wonder what specification oil I should use? I have 90 PA in stock, is it available for tack use? would it be better to use 75W140 spec oil?

Thanks

Stephane

For the manual transmission in the 928, our Gear 300 75W90 would be the best product for track use.

I have to add that I have removed the oil pan on the blue Strosek 928S4 1987 car. Last oil fill with Motul 300V 15W50 was made in May 2006. In spite of 13 years and 17.600 Km the sump was as clean as it can be. I am still confused and do not understand why the same motor oil caused sever oil sludge in the BMW Alpina V8 over a shorter period of time and less driving distance.
Yes I drive this car very little, I spend most of my time in the workshop so very little time for driving. Porsche prescribes oil change every 20.000 Km.
Åke
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8fd4053fc7.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1876158d26.jpg

From personal experience in a 996 GT3 Club Sport fitted with a Porsche Motortsport LSD and a 500hp + 928 GTS race car with a late type LSD substituted for the PSD, Motul Gear 300 75w90 LS is even better. No LSD chatter and very progressive lock up due to the friction modifier present in the lubricant.

As I rarely get around to changing the gb oil, I treated the car to some expensive Gear 300 75W90 last year

My gb has over 240k miles and has some badly worn synchros

The Motul oil seemed to enable smoother changes over a wider temperature range than other oils I have used

Could be a degree of wishful thinking, but nevertheless I will use Motul next time as well

I did use Motul v300 as an engine oil in my other car (AJP8 - flat tappet chain driven aggressive cams) for a couple of years but I found the cost prohibitive

I have been satisfied with Motul Gear Competition 75W140 in my (rebuilt) G50 transaxle.
I am always surprised why 75W90 oil grades keep being mentioned for Porsche transaxles when the ring & pinion share the same oil with the gearbox. I have noticed no downside on gearchanges with a heavier oil grade such as 75W140.