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Introduction: Motul

 
Old 08-10-2018, 03:14 PM
  #31  
SeanR
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I've been a fan of Motul for years but do not use it on my personal car or my customers cars. Availability vs price is my only reason honestly. My go to for customers cars is the Mobil 1 15w-50 (inexpensive and has all the good bits our cars need) and for the guys/gals who drive the **** out of their cars, or are modified I almost always use Brad Penn 20w-50 (always comes back from Blackstone Labs great but the price has gone up) unless they request Amsoil or Redline. I used to use RP HPS but moved away from that over the years. So sell me on Motul.

Why should I switch?
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Old 08-10-2018, 04:23 PM
  #33  
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Thank you for an awesome reply with details. I totally forgot that Worldpac and SSF both carry Motul. I suppose my head is stuck too far on the parts side and not the lubricant side. Will have to check it out since I'm due for an oil change on my car.

Again, thank you.
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:22 PM
  #34  
Wisconsin Joe
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Originally Posted by Motul View Post
...Elevated levels of ZDDP will help protect high lift cams and or flat tappet cams. Overhead-modern cam designs are actually quite easy on oil. The timing system however (chain, sprockets etc) are exposed to the main part of the abuse an engine takes these days...
You do understand that the 928 engine is a 45 year old design, right?

It is a 'flat tappet' cam engine. And, for the 16v motors, there is NO 'timing system' exposed to oil. The 32v motors have a small chain connecting the two cams in each head.

To be a bit blunt, you are a salesman. You can claim anything you want.

Until it's on a data sheet, in writing, subject to the rules and regs of that sort of thing, I tend to be very skeptical of any claim made.
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:54 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe View Post
You do understand that the 928 engine is a 45 year old design, right?
Yup. And...

it is Alusil. Not a lot of Alusil engines out there AFAIK. Modern Porsche engines are Nikasil and Lokasil - which is only on the cylinder walls rather than part of the alloy.

Question for Nick the Motul Rep:

Originally Posted by Motul View Post
300V is also fortified with sulfurized esters (sulfur is also an anti wear compound) for added protection in addition to high ZDDP levels.-Nick
Any word on the effects of the sulfurized esters on Alusil alloy?
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:21 AM
  #38  
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As previously said my memory is vague making me to go back and check my records concerning the BMW Alpina B10 4,6 V8.
On the first day of September 2012 I performed an oil change on the Alpina car. It might have been the last oil out of the old Motul 300V 15W50 60L oil container, oil which seemed to have some kind of lumps, but I am not sure if it went into the Alpina or another car.
During September of 2012 a new 60L container of Motul 300V 15W50 oil was delivered to me.
On the fourth day of September 2013 another oil change. This time for the first time ever the lower part of the sump was removed for inspection. Oil sludge not very much was found, the sump was cleaned and put back.
On the 21st day of March 2015 another oil change. Everything looked alright, the sump was not inspected.
In early April 2017 another oil change was coming up. As for some time noisy lifters had been heard from the engine , the lower sump was removed and heavy oil sludge as can be viewed on several pictures in this thread was found.
I want to be fully open minded, I want to know the cause of the problem with heavy oil sludge. It cannot be aging oil, it must be something else. As a matter of fact, during my fifty years in the business, I have never ever heard anyone mention motor oil having a best before date. Checking oil containers over here no dates whatsoever can be found. My BMW connections in Germany say do not use Motul Oil, it is not approved by BMW nor Alpina. They recommend Castrol Edge or Shell Helix Ultra motor oil. Nowadays it is high fashion to use very thin motor oil 0W20 or 0W30 in order to save the globe. Thin oil will reduce cold start friction and emissions but what will it do to camshaft wear in flat tappet engines like ours especially when high lift cams and stiffer valve springs are installed? Over here in Europe the word ZDDP is never mentioned, I have never seen it on any type of oil container.
┼ke
PS Forgot to say I just had the sump on our old Volvo off, our winter wagon. This is the first time in 720.000 km the sump is removed. This car has never seen Motul oil, I have always been using a low price synthetic 5W50 oil from unknown source. No oil sludge could be found but all the walls of the sheet metal sump as well the rest of the interior of the engine is covered by a thin layer of black carbon deposits. I am going to clean out as much of the deposit as possible. The engine is running good, almost no oil consumption and the goal is to take it to a million km.

Last edited by Strosek Ultra; 08-12-2018 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:34 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Motul View Post
Hi Kurt,
Thanks for the inquiry and using Motul.

Mixing 15W50/20W60: No problem here- you just made your own viscosity. The 15W50 is more than suitable for your application. The 20W60 is primarily used for cars with high fuel dilution. I did a quick viscosity calculation for you as well.- with the mix you're basically at a high viscosity 20W50 :



UOA details: A lot is left out of a UOA especially larger wear particles that get trapped in the filter. They will not show up in the UOA so inspect the filter closely for anything out of the ordinary.
300V choice: Sure if you don't mind spending the money. I think your practice of draining 1x a year is acceptable as 300V is not a long drain product and not meant for long period use as it is a motorsport product.

Hope that helps-Nick
Hi Nick,

thanks for the reply. I usually keep an eye on the oil filter. There are no visible metallic particles, the only thing I find routinely is small black specs, maybe 10-20 pieces in the whole filter and with 0.5mm diameter each. These have a soft and greasy consistency. Any idea what this could be?

Kurt
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:35 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Motul View Post
..........300V has a shelf of 24 months. The ester molecule is quite unstable and will deteriorate (gel) when exposed to long periods of non-use. Having it sit in a non-air tight metal container for possible years will only make this worse This would've been very useful before.
I have never heard of an expiration date in connection with motor oil. Certainly not with dino oil, which is hundreds of millions of years old. Maybe synths are different? I would not want to bother with a product that has an expiration date for my 928. I use non-synthetic oil, as I like the characteristics of it, and I do not believe that these older engines need a synthetic brand to perform and be preserved properly.
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:54 AM
  #41  
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Shelf Life

Shelf life of synthetic motor oil is dependent upon the additives and the environmental conditions. The motor oil quality may deteriorate, and sludge may be formed, if moisture is introduced into the oil due to condensation or mishandling. Water reacts with the oil additives to produce insoluble substances that reduce the oil shelf life. Moisture may also encourage microbial growth in the lubricants.It is recommended that the storage temperature should be stable. Generally, temperatures below 0║F or above 100║F will cause oil degradation, with reduced lubrication capability. Extreme low temperatures may form sediments, and separation of additives. Manufacturers normally recommend an environmental temperature between 40 degrees and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The presence of contaminants in the environment like dust may degenerate the motor oil quality.Therefore, if the oil can is not opened, the oil may be serviceable for long durations. Finally, the shelf life is also influenced by the product design. Elements like copper and iron can act as catalysts to promote the process of oxidation, and consequently reduce the shelf life.
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:38 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by linderpat View Post
I have never heard of an expiration date in connection with motor oil. Certainly not with dino oil, which is hundreds of millions of years old. Maybe synths are different? I would not want to bother with a product that has an expiration date for my 928. I use non-synthetic oil, as I like the characteristics of it, and I do not believe that these older engines need a synthetic brand to perform and be preserved properly.

"which is hundreds of millions of years old"


Not once we've done chemistry with it...oil in the bottle is far from tar from the ground.
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Old 08-13-2018, 07:09 AM
  #44  
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I'll say here that my Indy Mechanic gets their oil delivered every week. They never have stuff lying around.
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Old 08-15-2018, 01:40 AM
  #45  
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