rear wheel bearings tool
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Ferndale, WA
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rear wheel bearings tool
Hello,
Finally getting the motivation to tackle the rear wheel bearings on my '78 928.
Seems like a special and expensive tool is the best way to go to get the bearings out and in. A big expense for a one shot deal.
I called around to the local shops that specialize in German autos and they all said heck no. Even called the local dealer-never returned my call.
Seems like a legitimate option is to pull the A arms (or whatever they are called ) off and take them to a machine shop to have the old bearings pressed out and new ones pressed in.
Before taking that step might there be anyone in Whatcom county Washington (Ferndale to be specific) or perhaps the lower mainland of British Columbia that might have the specialized tool and be willing to pop in and give me a hand getting this job done. Would certainly be willing to compensate for time and trouble with beer or other beverage of choice to swill or even some cash.I have a two post lift that should make the job fairly painless and should have most of the other tools to get the job done.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Craig
Finally getting the motivation to tackle the rear wheel bearings on my '78 928.
Seems like a special and expensive tool is the best way to go to get the bearings out and in. A big expense for a one shot deal.
I called around to the local shops that specialize in German autos and they all said heck no. Even called the local dealer-never returned my call.
Seems like a legitimate option is to pull the A arms (or whatever they are called ) off and take them to a machine shop to have the old bearings pressed out and new ones pressed in.
Before taking that step might there be anyone in Whatcom county Washington (Ferndale to be specific) or perhaps the lower mainland of British Columbia that might have the specialized tool and be willing to pop in and give me a hand getting this job done. Would certainly be willing to compensate for time and trouble with beer or other beverage of choice to swill or even some cash.I have a two post lift that should make the job fairly painless and should have most of the other tools to get the job done.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Craig
#4
Three Wheelin'
Craig,
If I can do this job, anybody can. I only have a 6 ton press and this was more than enough to push the old bearings out. I reckon I paid $100 for the press. You don't need a press to put the new bearing in but you will need one to push the hub back into the carrier. I heated the carrier to 250 in the oven for about 30mins and the bearing in the freezer for 3 hours. Bearing drops straight in.
A cheap press will come in handy for all sorts of suspension jobs.
Scott
If I can do this job, anybody can. I only have a 6 ton press and this was more than enough to push the old bearings out. I reckon I paid $100 for the press. You don't need a press to put the new bearing in but you will need one to push the hub back into the carrier. I heated the carrier to 250 in the oven for about 30mins and the bearing in the freezer for 3 hours. Bearing drops straight in.
A cheap press will come in handy for all sorts of suspension jobs.
Scott
#5
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I reached out to Colin.
Scott I have a cheap Harbor Freight shop press that would probably work. Maybe I just need to work up the courage and get it done!
Thanks all!
Scott I have a cheap Harbor Freight shop press that would probably work. Maybe I just need to work up the courage and get it done!
Thanks all!
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
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gergstuff --
The carrier comes out with some work for the bearing replacement. You get to disconnect the parking brake cable, and ABS and brake pad wear sensors wiring, then pull the bottom pin and the upper link bolts to lift the carrier out and get it on the bench. Take the parking brake bits off the backing plate while it's on the car. You'll press the stub axle out of the bearing, then remove the half of the inner bearing race that came out with the stub axle. Large snap ring is now exposed, remove that. Then press the old bearing out.
Heat the carrier in the oven to 250º, while the bearing is in the freezer (or dry ice bath) for a few hours. The bearing will drop in with no effort. Install the snap ring, the backing plate, and the parking brake bits before you put the stub axle back in. You'll want a section of pipe in your press as you put that back in, so the inner bearing race is supported and you aren't pressing "across" the ball bearings inside to out.
----
I have the B90 tool, but I'm one state too far south to make it convenient for your use. I used to loan it out, but it's suffered a lot of shipping damage so it's now constrained to local loan-out only. When we lived near Los Angeles, it spent a lot of time helping other local owners. The user base here in central Oregon is much smaller, so it's been a placeholder on the shelf for a while now. The tool makes short work of the bearing replacement, with a fraction of the disassembly normally needed. It also eliminates a rear alignment step. There's a sub-set of the tool available from Sir Tools that's just the pieces needed for the Porsche bearing.
Know that others have managed the work on the car with a large axle-pulling slide hammer and one of the aftermarket wheel bearing tool kits intended for front- and all-wheel drive hubs. Andrew Olson showed off the method in a thread here, with pictures and instructions. Search is your friend.
The carrier comes out with some work for the bearing replacement. You get to disconnect the parking brake cable, and ABS and brake pad wear sensors wiring, then pull the bottom pin and the upper link bolts to lift the carrier out and get it on the bench. Take the parking brake bits off the backing plate while it's on the car. You'll press the stub axle out of the bearing, then remove the half of the inner bearing race that came out with the stub axle. Large snap ring is now exposed, remove that. Then press the old bearing out.
Heat the carrier in the oven to 250º, while the bearing is in the freezer (or dry ice bath) for a few hours. The bearing will drop in with no effort. Install the snap ring, the backing plate, and the parking brake bits before you put the stub axle back in. You'll want a section of pipe in your press as you put that back in, so the inner bearing race is supported and you aren't pressing "across" the ball bearings inside to out.
----
I have the B90 tool, but I'm one state too far south to make it convenient for your use. I used to loan it out, but it's suffered a lot of shipping damage so it's now constrained to local loan-out only. When we lived near Los Angeles, it spent a lot of time helping other local owners. The user base here in central Oregon is much smaller, so it's been a placeholder on the shelf for a while now. The tool makes short work of the bearing replacement, with a fraction of the disassembly normally needed. It also eliminates a rear alignment step. There's a sub-set of the tool available from Sir Tools that's just the pieces needed for the Porsche bearing.
Know that others have managed the work on the car with a large axle-pulling slide hammer and one of the aftermarket wheel bearing tool kits intended for front- and all-wheel drive hubs. Andrew Olson showed off the method in a thread here, with pictures and instructions. Search is your friend.