bgrabner

Looks like I wasn't careful enough doing my timing belt and punched a small hole in my radiator on my '88. Does this look repairable or should I be shopping for a replacement? If replacement, any recommendations? I think my radiator has left and right end tank coolers? I'm no expert on radiators so any thoughts or recommendations are appreciated.

SeanR

Someone might be able to fix it. If you get a new one, go with 928 Internationals or 928sRus and get the CSF radiator Mark is having made. It's good stuff that fits exactly as one should.

FredR

Take a look at this website

http://durafix.com/

WALTSTAR

FredR

I have not used such but they sure look impressive in terms of what they can do in relatively novice hands. There are several similar products that seem to produce similar results one of the being HTS-2000 if my memory serves me correctly. Keep meaning to order some just in case needed for whatever transpires.

I had to modify my "custom" radiator that I got from an outfit in the States. Thought I was in deep trouble- took it to a radiator shop in the car souk and some old boy Afghan did a marvellous job of sorting out the issues after I had fabricated a couple of mods - work that is still holding some 10 years on..I suspect the rod he used to braze with was something similar.

davek9

The tube has a cut, break away the fins that are near the break, clean the tube really good and JB weld it, let dry over night, it won't leak again (there .
Never tried that other stuff, but it looks like you may need to have better access to do it, and heat.

Dave K

bgrabner

Thanks for the advice everyone - going to try the fix route for now just to save $$ for other projects - if it doesn't work I'll go the replacement route with the CSF radiator Sean suggested.

Dave K - would JB Weld work on aluminium? I have no problem taking out the radiator if need be for the Durafix route but if you have had positive experience with JB Weld on aluminium i might give that a try first.

Edit: just did my own google research as I should have done - looks like the consensus is that JB Weld is fine for aluminum for a fix like this, not necessarily for anything load bearing. I'll report back with results.

Christopher Zach

JB weld is like God in a Box: I had an oil galley plug that simply would *NOT* seat on my 944S head (back top rear one). Finally I put a bit of JB Weld on the plug, tapped it in, and have not had a micro-drop leak 5 years on.

dr bob

I've watched this thread with a little interest. FWIW, my first suggestion is to take the thing to a local radiator specialist and have them do the repair. They have the facility to completely clean the core, essential for any repair regardless. If you still have original tanks, take the opportunity to replace them. Regardless, have the o-ring end tank seals replaced as part of the effort. The shop will also be able to pressure test the finished unit to verify that it's fit for service. Not suggesting that the DIY JBWeld repair won't work perfectly; It will with proper prep and cure time.. But if it isn't perfect and decised to fail, it won't be in the convenience of the garage. Instead, it will be on a lonely desert highway somewhere, no cell service, vultures circling, etc.

Managing risk always includes an analysis of failure modes and conditions.

----

Folks doing timing belts services should consider removing the radiator during the effort. At minimum, tape a couple layers of cardboard to the radiator to protect the fins from even casual contact with tools and hands. My two cents.

bgrabner

Wise advice Bob - definitely appreciate it. I have another timing belt to do still and I will take extra care on protecting it. I've never taken the radiator out before - how difficult of a job is it?

davek9

Hardest part is counter holding the fittings on the internal Oil and Trans(if an auto) coolers so as not to break them off inside, else they will leak oil into the coolant.
Use the correct size wrench's and extra leverage if possible, when re-installing do not over tighten them, as there is no need to do so.

Dave K

Edit: taking an old Rad like these to a Rad shop is great advice, but do your homework, most shops are in the business of selling replacement Rads and very very few have the correct tools/jig to redo plastic end-tanks and may end up destroying a very good salvageable Rad.
IMO, glue it and $ave up for a direct fit new all aluminum CSF Rad

dr bob

As Dave shares, getting the cooler fittings loose can be a challenge. 26mm wrench for the fitting, with 32mm thin for the fitting nut are essential. then use the two wrenches and a squeeze technique to get the hose fitting free without turning the nut against the tank. I add a plastic bag over the ends of the hoses after disconnect, using some high-tech elastic retainers (rubber bands...) to contain any spillage and protect the hoses from damage or contamination. Remove the two hold-downs and the radiator lifts out easily. It's safest sitting on the floor under the rear of the car, at least in my garage.

Replace the rubber hold-down bumpers with new soft. When reinstalling, the holders just hold the radiator and don't try to clamp it in place. It expands and contracts with temperature, while the body flexes as you drive. Just snug enough to keep it in place, no more.

andy-gts

brazing rods ????

Jason89s4

I'm kind of with Dr. Bob on this one, but also am a JB Weld believer.

If you don't mind taking the tank out, take it to a radiator repair shop and they will easily solder that hole up, plus they can do a power wash and pressure test it for any other leaks. If you do this, look for a "true" radiator repair shop, not some place advertised as "brakes and radiator repair" or something like that. The place I use in Dallas is over on the industrial side of town and a lot of their business is semi-trucks, but they can do any radiator. Cash talks.

I've never used JB Weld on aluminum, but I have patched a very fine 3 inch crack in an iron block that was seeping coolant. Still working. (It was one of those "what do I have to lose" situations, if it doesn't work I'm just back to pulling the engine for repair.) It worked like a charm....to seal an engine block! The key to using it (or any epoxy) is surface prep. With aluminum maybe degreaser of your choice, stainless bristle brush (no power tools) and then acetone. Also, if you have never used JB Weld, you may want to mix up a test batch and apply it to a test dummy on your work bench to get a handle on how the stuff mixes, its consistency and how it sets up. When you do it you will see what I mean. (The $7 package will easily provide enough for practice, your fix, and more.) Go with the original, it is high temp. The stick is not and not as good, unless you have very limited access.