View Poll Results: How I change my oil
I warm the car up and make the change while still warm
40
78.43%
i just change it cold
10
19.61%
i let the shop do it
1
1.96%
Voters: 51. You may not vote on this poll
OIL CHANGE TECHNQUE - Hot or cold?
#16
Rennlist Member
In either case, the hot oil will flow a lot faster than just about any cold oil. Even hot 60 would flow faster than cold 0.
#19
RL Community Team
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I drain it hot and let it drain for an hour. This gets more oil out and leaves a coating of oil on the walls for the restart, which doesn't happen if you drain it cold. I also prefill the oil filter before installing it to build oil pressure as soon as possible.
#20
Rennlist Member
I thought everyone knew this?
YEP, thats what i have seen to and was alluding to on the first post. Did you get the second sentence , mixed up? my undersanding is that the "20" weight part of the 20-50, acts like a 20 weigh when cold. However, contrary to the posts by Jeff and Andy, the oil , regardless is always going to be thinner when hot, than when cold. it sounds funny, but is what ive seen and heard
Yes , i did..................what is your point?
YEP, thats what i have seen to and was alluding to on the first post. Did you get the second sentence , mixed up? my undersanding is that the "20" weight part of the 20-50, acts like a 20 weigh when cold. However, contrary to the posts by Jeff and Andy, the oil , regardless is always going to be thinner when hot, than when cold. it sounds funny, but is what ive seen and heard
Yes , i did..................what is your point?
My point is you're not aware of what a multigrade is, or how what the numbers mean. (Which I posted)
Its a 20 at 0C, and a 50 a5 100C. Clear?
PS: Glass in my 80 is not cracked.
#21
Administrator - "Tyson"
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This is one of those cases where whatever makes you feel the best after the job is done is the correct answer.
It really doesn't matter, getting "most" of the oil out is going to be just fine. All these "tricks" to get that one last drop isn't going to extend the life of your engine. The only way to get every single last drop out would be to run a solvent through the system & that would destroy the motor.
These cars hold an absurd amount of oil compared to modern engines. My 6 liter Yukon XL holds 6 quarts and has a filter the size of a tuna can. These engines easily last 250-300k miles and most are run 10k-20k miles between oil changes.
My sister ran her Yukon with less than 4 quarts in the system for over a year - long story how I determined that - this was 100k miles ago, still running fine. I think she gets the oil changes based on lunar calendars.
Change it on some interval, use a good filter & the proper weight oil and a new crush washer, you'll be fine. No need to over think this.
On that note....why are we still using disposable crush washers? The rest of the planet figured out how to use a rubber seal that is reusable.....
It really doesn't matter, getting "most" of the oil out is going to be just fine. All these "tricks" to get that one last drop isn't going to extend the life of your engine. The only way to get every single last drop out would be to run a solvent through the system & that would destroy the motor.
These cars hold an absurd amount of oil compared to modern engines. My 6 liter Yukon XL holds 6 quarts and has a filter the size of a tuna can. These engines easily last 250-300k miles and most are run 10k-20k miles between oil changes.
My sister ran her Yukon with less than 4 quarts in the system for over a year - long story how I determined that - this was 100k miles ago, still running fine. I think she gets the oil changes based on lunar calendars.
Change it on some interval, use a good filter & the proper weight oil and a new crush washer, you'll be fine. No need to over think this.
On that note....why are we still using disposable crush washers? The rest of the planet figured out how to use a rubber seal that is reusable.....
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
and thanks for the info about the glas....ill have to figure out how to get out there with a glass guy.. probably just have one meet me out there to remove and install in the race car a the same time! THX!!!
Its interesting, that you get the kinematic flow rates on the graph what backs up what Jeff is thinking.. BUT, in reality, related to flow, warm oil always flows faster than cold oil, near regardless of the SAE viscosity numbers. (between 10 and 60 weight) . two different concepts and characteristics.
It was confusing what I said. To clarify: 20W50 is a base oil of SAE 20W and the viscosity grade at running temperature is SAE 50. So, yes, the oil does behave like a 20 when cold, but so would just straight SAE 20 oil. So they are the same at cold but because of the friction modifiers that expand when hot, the oil behaves more like a 50 than a 20 when hot.
In either case, the hot oil will flow a lot faster than just about any cold oil. Even hot 60 would flow faster than cold 0.
How does it leave more of a coating on the walls for restart? that doesnt make sense vs draining and restarting cold. the only difference between cold and warm restart is that the engine is cold or warm. the engine doesnt know its missing oil in the sump pan ether way. yes, i always fill the filter before i install to avoid that momentary lapse in pressure.
#23
#25
Rennlist Member
I suppose you could machine the oil pan to accept that if you wanted to. Then you could likely use it 2 or 3 times, tops.
But if you used an O ring with no modifications, it too would be a one use item as it would be destroyed first torquing down.
#26
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Most never replace them, unless damaged. Except for my truck, since I'm a paranoid 928 owner.
#28
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#29
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#30
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I train my guys to allow the oil to drain until there are only slow drips coming out. The percentage of old oil left is so small compared to the total volume, it's inconsequential.
And if the old oil is so terrible that every tiny bit needs to be removed, the engine probably needs to come apart, anyway.
And if the old oil is so terrible that every tiny bit needs to be removed, the engine probably needs to come apart, anyway.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!