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OK, resolved: I'm starting that tomorrow. No clearance issues for the seats, speakers etc?
Yes, I did have to remove the sound insulation that is mounted on the back of the panel. since I installed the Vinyl sound proofing on the chassis. There isn't room for two layers.
Might want to reference @Speedtoys since this thread is pretty old. That is the stuff he mentioned I think.
Update from me in case anyone is interested: My quarter panels and most of the floor pan are covered with foam/MLV and it is definitely working. I am redoing all the carpet and as I add sections I am laminating the sound barrier underneath.
Ya, thats what Ive used. Rats dont like it, water doesnt like it..use it raw or put it in a bag...an amazing amount of sound can be kept OUT of the car, before adding weight fighting it IN the car.
Might want to reference @Speedtoys since this thread is pretty old. That is the stuff he mentioned I think.
Update from me in case anyone is interested: My quarter panels and most of the floor pan are covered with foam/MLV and it is definitely working. I am redoing all the carpet and as I add sections I am laminating the sound barrier underneath.
Nice thread. Definitely a future job. Any extra info or pics as you go would be much appreciated.
Nice thread. Definitely a future job. Any extra info or pics as you go would be much appreciated.
i packed the inner rear B pillar behind the driver and pax seats today. This stuff really packs and compresses nicely and is clean to use. Tear off a chunk and push, pack it in. Glad i searched this up.
once i get the car off the wheels again i will do the rest.
I am in the middle of soundproofing the rear quarters and I could use some assistance. I have the rear panel off now and there are two large pieces of foam. The rear piece of foam is over the wheel arch, under the window. The second piece of foam is mounted to the panel along side of the B-pillar.
My questions is, should I remove both pieces of foam and just use the sound deadening mounted to the sheetmetal? Or should leave the foam and sandwich the sound deadening in-between?
Michael,
Glad this worked out. Figured that stuff was a couple steps up from the Brown Bread from B-Quiet that I used on the 79.
On my former 94 GTS, I did the entire car (except for the foam rear quarters) and it quieted it down ALOT!!
But,
I did the entire 79 including the rear quarters with Brown Bread (B-Quiet) and it was even quieter.
Looks like The Brown bread was renamed to B-Quiet ultimate. It's sticky back with a foil type top.
The good stuff you used is comparable to B-Quiet Vcomp. This probably works ALOT better to quiet the rear quarters.
Next time I go back into ripping the interior out, I'm going to add your type (Vcomp) to the rear deck, quarters, front and rear floors.
Tony, do you have any pics of the Rockwool in the rear wheel well? Did you just shove it up there or put it in a plastic back and then "install"??
BTW,
For any of you pulling out your interiors to do carpet, door panels, rear quarters or whatever, adding sound deadening to your Shark is a great project!!
It's Not crazy expensive, it doesn't weigh that much, and it makes a HUGE difference in quieting down the car especially "AT Speed".
I've done 2 of these cars now and it made a HUGE difference on both.
i packed the inner rear B pillar behind the driver and pax seats today. This stuff really packs and compresses nicely and is clean to use. Tear off a chunk and push, pack it in. Glad i searched this up.
once i get the car off the wheels again i will do the rest.
nope, thats the only part of the interior trim i left in. Didnt want to damage the area around the sunroof. The material is stuffed up above the opening above the seat belt reel. ..used a small dowel rod to help wedge up as far as i could. Majority of it is down below the speaker hole.
chuck, i stuffed it in in “handfuls” and didnt use a bag....this is on the interior cavities. I will probably uses the same approach on the exterior cavities when in get to it....especially on the upper hollows of that pillar. The lower area may need a bag to either keep it dry or help keep the smaller chunks together, but i can tear it of in larger sections, it comes in long sheets.
just thumping the panel on the inside before and after has gotten rid of the “hollow” sound.
I thought I would share some long term experiences on this sound proofing project. As a refresher when I did the rear quarters with mass loaded vinyl, V_MAX from Cascade Audio, I also did the doors with a vibration block style material, VB2 from Cascade Audio, as well. This was on my 1988 S4. I remember the package shipped weighed about 50lbs figure about 40 of that went into the car.
After the install I was impressed at the change in noise level on the car, and I posted my sentiment above. As time as passed and I have taken some longer trips, I find that I still have quite a bit of road noise. I find I need to turn the radio up quite a bit to hear it over the road noise on the freeway.
Compare to @Speedtoys car 87/88 car which I had the opportunity to drive, his was much quieter. Given he was on a long road trip and it was packed with all sorts sound absorbing gear. But maybe his sound solution is just as good if not better. I would be curious to know the weight comparison of the rock wool. I bet it's lighter and a lot less expensive.
Now that I have a GTS, I cant believe how much quieter the car is compared to my 88. The GTS has molded sound insulation bonded to the bottom of the carpets. It appears to have been injection molded to fit the floor pan. The driver floor-mat is nearly 11lbs! There is also what looks like mass loaded material on the firewall, much thicker than the S4 foil. And of course the GTS has those infamous insulated wheel wheels which I think account for most of the noise in my S4. The GTS has noise levels of a modern luxury car, much quieter than @Speedtoys . But also much heaver.
I am curious to rum my GTS without the floor-mats to see how much more noise that adds. I would be very interested in a much lower weight version of reducing the noise level. But I would need a lot of guidance.
This is my current experiment with MLV.
I bought the MLV without the attached foam.
On the passenger side, I pulled the molded foam, put down ceramic loaded vinyl, 1/4” closed cell foam, then 1# mass loaded vinyl.
On the drivers side, I bonded the MLV directly to the outside of the factory foam, much easier. We’ll see if there is any difference between the sides.
I also treated the hollow in front of the rear wheel wells with the same stuff and added a layer of foam over the MLV for speaker resonance.
The floors also get MLV going over the edges of the factory sound deadener on the center hump.
nope, thats the only part of the interior trim i left in. Didnt want to damage the area around the sunroof. The material is stuffed up above the opening above the seat belt reel. ..used a small dowel rod to help wedge up as far as i could. Majority of it is down below the speaker hole.
chuck, i stuffed it in in “handfuls” and didnt use a bag....this is on the interior cavities. I will probably uses the same approach on the exterior cavities when in get to it....especially on the upper hollows of that pillar. The lower area may need a bag to either keep it dry or help keep the smaller chunks together, but i can tear it of in larger sections, it comes in long sheets.
just thumping the panel on the inside before and after has gotten rid of the “hollow” sound.
Thx for clarifying Tony!
Good luck w the reassembly.
Send pics when you get a chance.
For the MLV to do much good, it really needs to be in glued-on contact with the metal structure. Its purpose is to dampen any resonant nodes in the metal panels. So putting it over the factory foam coating in the rear quarters or trunk floor won't buy you a lot.Follow the correct guidance shared below.
Add foam sound-absorbing materials on top of that. I've had a concern for being able to block the lower b-pillar cavity while avoiding any possible issues with moisture trapped up in there. My instinct says to blow a thin dry-cleaner's bag up in there (shop vac...), and follow with a mist of water and some expanding foam. The water mist "cures" the foam quickly, and prevents creep and bag explosion up top over time. Not an issue in most places, but in our very dry high-desert climate it solves a nagging issue. In a previous car in a similar climate, I had expanding foam bleeding out of lower cavities after I filled the rocker cavities. If you want to find every manufacturing gap in the tub, expanding foam will alert you with yellow streamers and blobs in the oddest places.
In wheel-well cavities, do the same with the plastic bag material or painters film, with edges secured with gaffers tape. Foam them, then sculpt with am electric kitchen carving knife. Close the bag, and you have a molded 'plug' held in by the tape. Removable if/when needed, zero clean-up back to original. getting spray foam off after it's cured to clean painted metal is too much work; use the bag.
09-04-2018, 12:10 PM
