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I wanted to add some info to this thread regarding the combo flap pod linkage.
Some may find the 4 prong stud has tabs that break off and then the arm wont wont attach to the pivot.
I figured out a way to fix it with a long 2mm drill about 6 inches long,
I used a 928 washer pump screw and a few spacers.
I found a thin wall plastic that would fit inside the arm of the actuator for a snug fit and also screw onto the screw.
This assembly was glued /pressed nto the socket so it would not fall off till it was screwed into the pivot arm.
With the glove box parts removed,
I remove the duct tube, then use a flashlight and mirror to see the pivot arm.
I used a long screwdriver to snap off the remaining fingers .
I got a long drill bit on Ebay, I used a 2mm bit.
NOTE my dash was removed so it was a lot easier to see and drill the hole that you will be screwing the screw into.
BUT I think with a small enough drill motor you can do it with the dash in place or use a 90 degree drill motor.
I was also using my Streamlight flashlight,
the best flashlight you can buy to illuminate the interior of the heater box.
Amen! Too often we ASSume that a bit of smarts in a metal case is somehow immune.
In this car's case, the direct contributor to failure is more likely the primary voltage from the alternator that Stan reported. The battery is a great current sink, but has its limits. The unregulated 18V from the alternator will eventually bring the battery terminal voltage up past the ratings of the components in the controllers, then its as much a matter of luck in finding what fails first. According to Fig Newton's Third Law of Electrical Reciprocity, when there's a choice between an expensive of inexpensive component, the more expensive component will always fail first. Meanwhile, this kind of failure is a perfect illustration of why we NEVER lift the battery terminal on a running engine. Absent that battery as a sink, the regulator in the alternator has a tough time managing voltage spikes from the spinning alternator. See the Fig Newton reference above to find out which components suffer first. Hint: it's not the brake light bulbs.
Mr. Merlin,
This is a great thread and I love the global approach to renewing a good, but "with miles" car.
Nice to meet you today Stan, thanks for having me over to say howdy! Very clean cars and a very good excellent standard for me and anyone to emulate in working on your 928 car. His gold color car is killer!!!!
I have been slowly spending time refitting the interior.
I went with a lite colored set of WOOL CoCo mats this to keep the interior from being dragged down with the dark leather .
This was the closest color match I could find to the lite gray Sliverknit carpets.
I added the contrasting door panel inserts and since the center armrest needed to be recovered,
I went with matching leather for the top of the armrest area.
I think the colors look good together, its sanitary and neat, the colors make the cockpit feel relaxing .
The fresh leather on the dash, pod and console and doors and center rest smell great.
The lite carpet color also adds to upbeat feeling of the interior.
the other cool thing about this car is that the engine really feels stronger than most of the S4s I have driven,
and with the GT resonators and the RMB it has just the right amount of rumble to be enjoyable and not obnoxious or irritating
Grab a soft shoe-shine brush or similar, and use it to brush the carpet nap towards the normal viewing position. For the bottoms of the door cards for instance, brush from the bottom up towards the top. Having it all in the same direction on each section will make it look very clean and new.
The whole car looks pretty spectacular. You've done just about everything a prospective buyer would normally need/expect to do in the first couple years of ownership. Should be a great offering for someone who'd rather not be burdened with that stuff as he he/she starts their ownership experience.
Well I am looking for a used coin holder the one that came with the car was damaged so it’s just an empty hole for now
I have one in black, just went down to the shop to check. Looks like the "nickle" slot needs a new spring or something, it's all the way in and doesn't pop out. I don't think I'll ever need it, let me know if you want to give it a try.
PS: What are you doing for a T handle on the shifter?
Just looked at the coin holder a little closer. It's got some JB Weld on the back of the nickle slot (far right). I can't figure how to get the thing out so if you want it hints are welcome. No visible screws. It's loose in the opening.
Well I am looking for a used coin holder the one that came with the car was damaged so it’s just an empty hole for now
Was the carpet delivered from Classic9 with the coin holder cutout in it already? Thanks! If so, I'll have to contact Rob to see if he'll not cut mine out - I've decided the "shave" mine.
No need to answer - Bob Budd got back to me - holes are not precut.
Last edited by Geza; 01-22-2019 at 11:07 AM.
Reason: New info received
Stan: "I just bought this complete basket case for $5. Bones look pretty good. Now I'll just pull apart the motor and put it back together with my eyes closed and one foot tied behind my back. Oh, look! There it goes on BaT for $50,000!"
Shawn: "I just bought this semi-good Shark from $$$. Let me try to tighten a screw after referencing three manuals, two YouTube videos, and three Rennlist threads. Oh, look! I just broke the whole daggone car!"
If I wasn't a pretty good coder I think I'd just throw myself off a bridge. I'd drive myself off that bridge, but I'm not sure my car could make it.
12-27-2018, 07:43 PM
