merchauser

I have another thread running about removing the water bridge to replace a crack in my plastic oil filter.
in parallel, here is another:

if all goes well, I should have access to the front knock sensor. can someone tell if it is worth swapping
ONLY the front sensor? certain it is the original. I can't say that I have any symptoms regarding the knock
sensor, but if its a WYAIT, will replace. could I receive an unexpected benefit???

Speedtoys

Cant hurt...Id say if thats all you can reasonably get to, do it.

Both would be ideal..but I dont _think_ they rely any on each other.

merchauser

do they act independently? in tandem, or in series? or are they redundant?

ammonman

IIRC the system has to see plausible input from both for the system to work. If either is kaput the EZK will pull ignition timing to ensure no knocks.

Mike

Rob Edwards

Beg borrow or buy a Spanner, Theo tool, durametric tester, or a Sharktuner, and test whether the knock sensors are good. Why guess when you can know?

Mrmerlin

I just got a 88 with the peeled knock sensor wires the ends have been silicon ed into the main harness, the engine will not accelerate but it will idle.

FredR

The computer looks for a viable signal from both sensors and the Hall trigger and if one of them is defective you lose 6 degrees of advance in every cell which represents a considerable power/torque loss across the board. The system is designed to protect the engine if circumstances dictate that you have to use witch **** for fuel.

Changing that sensor out because you have [?] access to it reduces the probability of a retardation event occurring but such probability is skewed in that if one goes chances are the other is not going to be far behind it degradation wise. Knock sensors are on my "10 year probability of failure" list- that is to say my expectation is that they will easily last 10 years without failure and in all probability should last longer than that. Just replaced mine as the end connectors were falling apart after about 15 years of service [they were still functional as indicated by my ST2].

merchauser

I have open access to the Bosch hammer, and it does not show any issue with the knock sensors; of course, I am not sure I know how to interpret the results.
I can drive the car conservatively, and get consistent readings of less than 5, and then beat the heck out of the car and see reading in the 30's, so I am not sure
of what that might tell????

the day will come when I need to pull the intake and replace all the common items to replace, but that time is not this summer.....

agreed, but if I am not going to actually realize any benefit, I might wait for that major refresh??

Captain_Slow

If your GT has typical miles or ran in a hot climate I'm 99% sure the sensor wire casing will crumble in your fingers tips...and the male connector at the end of this wire will break off in the female connector and will need to be picked out. It will look something like this... Well, this is how the front one looked after I removed it. Just lifting the wire, removing the bolt, and disconnecting it from the harness. I made no attempt to remove the casing...it simply fell off. If your car runs acceptably well, just put these off until you are ready to do it right during the top end refresh. There really aren't any short cuts.