How to crack/break water bridge bolts
 

have heard these bolts can be a PITA, and wondering if (after spraying with PB), is it best to use good old fashioned
ratchet action, with gentle gradual pressure, or should I, could I, use an impact wrench. thoughts??

Were it mine...

I'd start with a good impact-rated allen driver and a bar. If it doesn't move with reasonable force, I'd use an impact driver to try and jar it loose. That's after a day or three of soaking with a favorite penetrating solution like Kroil or ATF/Acetone.

..and with that nice snug tool....a good hammer on it to break up SOME corrosion down in there...

I used a 12" ratchet extension bar and put the square end on the bolt head and whacked it a few times with a hammer. Came undone quite easily after that.

Clean out the oil and grit in the bolt & seat the allen squarely (not at an angle) and give it a few hard whacks with a hammer. This does 2 things. It seats the tool in the bolt but it also shocks the threads breaking loose any corrosion.

I would NOT use the "gentle pressure" approach. That is why I learned about timeserts when doing my water pump lol.

For the two water bridge bolts I had that were stuck, I tried going back and forth with my very weak impact driver, followed with lots of soaking with PB Blaster, rapping on the bolt heads with a hammer, etc on and off for about a week. I finally said screw it, put the big impact wrench on it and one brief squeeze of the trigger and they came out. They didn't even look too bad, so I don't think they were THAT stuck. My weak impact wrench must be REALLY weak.

Hand Impact tool. 3 lb hammer and long allen socket (to get beyond the intake if it's still in place.)

the problem is getting the tool into the one in the back hole, driver's side.

yeah, that is the one that looks like a lot of fun!!

The long allen socket clears the intake. Darien put a thin sheet of plastic between the allen socket body and the intake to avoid damaging the new refinished intake.

regarding the water bridge, it appears that factory finish is natural: is that correct? the factory finish is NOT
powder coated, or painted, like the intake manifold or cam covers?

That is correct, at least on mine, although a lot of people do finish them (if you do, you need to make sure you don't mess with the ability of the temp sensors to find ground).

Yes the stock WB is not painted/PC.

BTW, there's no way I can get to the driver's side back bolt with the intake in place in my car.
Way too tight.

If it's the first time the bridge is removed, I greatly suggest you remove the intake first.

that is what I am hoping to avoid. my oil filler neck has a fine crack in it, and I would like to replace with intake in situ. I will attempt
to remove that problematic bolt first and hope for the best (and leave the water bridge with natural finish)