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And id be driving home today, except 8 of 9 damper bolts had to be drilled out...kept breaking 3/8" socket heads..so no bolts, plus holiday = Wednesday or Thursday next week now.
Looks as though you dodged a large bullet with that one!
Seems like the belt jumped a tooth at the crank pulley- if so that should not cause any valve damage but once such happens I presume it is a "crap shoot" as to just how many teeth get jumped.
The belt stretches quite a bit after being heated up like that, running over a seized water pump. Could have jumped a tooth, or just changed timing with the extra belt length.
The belt stretches quite a bit after being heated up like that, running over a seized water pump. Could have jumped a tooth, or just changed timing with the extra belt length.
So...if it was just stretch..how would the shop realign this?
If it jump a tooth..same question...
Im almost expecting a "we gotta pull the cam covers and retime it..." which i sure will be another $1000..just because.
8 out of 9 damper bolts drilled out? WTH? wrong kind of loctite?
Ya..well...I would say if they were doing it wrong, they would have stripped out the bolt heads with the allen tool. But breaking _3_ snapon 3/8 socket heads, I cant fault the shop for trying. They spoke with GB, and I doubt that heating with a torch on the superdamper was an option.
So...if it was just stretch..how would the shop realign this?
If it jump a tooth..same question...
Im almost expecting a "we gotta pull the cam covers and retime it..." which i sure will be another $1000..just because.
If the apparent cam timing retardation was down to belt stretch or a jumped tooth I do not see a problem fitting a new pump, belt and whatever else is needed assuming no valves were bent.
'
If it was belt stretch only then the belt must have been well slack given the apparent cam retardation and a stock tensioner - thus the degraded belt would have been "ready to jump" any moment.
What color of loctite was used? I've seen scenario's where loctite blue used on black oxide bolts almost seem to accelerate the oxidation process and chemically weld the threads in place. I wonder if loctite purple would be better.
What color of loctite was used? I've seen scenario's where loctite blue used on black oxide bolts almost seem to accelerate the oxidation process and chemically weld the threads in place. I wonder if loctite purple would be better.
I would guess Blue, but I would leave that to GB to confirm..but I had not heard of that
If the shop has a 32valver tool by Porken then the cam covers dont have to be removed to retime the cam gears.
Otherwise a jumped tooth is not anything to worry about just put on a new belt and align the timing marks
If the shop has a 32valver tool by Porken then the cam covers dont have to be removed to retime the cam gears.
Otherwise a jumped tooth is not anything to worry about just put on a new belt and align the timing marks
I know you trust this shop and i'm sure their patience is thin after the loctite mess but if they're not willing to use the proper tool to time the cams, have them put a timing belt on, get it close to the marks and get it out of there. It'll run acceptably if not optimally, and you can 32V'r it on your own time at your own pace later.
05-24-2018, 09:24 PM
Watching my TB job go farther south..
