Wisconsin Joe

The 'something to shield it better' is the jump post cover & cap.

The cap is just that, a cap that covers the top of the jump post. You do realize that it is a hot 12v post, right? If anything grounded and conductive that touches it will be...

Interesting.

The cover is a boxy plastic piece that goes over the entire jump post and extends over the 14 pin plug.

Roger has them. Less than $20 for both.

You can see a nice pic of them in place in post #35 in this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...problem-2.html

onionpatchkid

Before this thread started I did not know that was live. I do now. I can't leave it like it is. The live post isn't even mounted, it's just floating there. I didn't do that. I bought it that way. I'll get those covers. Thanks for your help.

M. Requin

Another thing for you to do is download an owners manual, a fellow rennlister has them here https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...al-online.html That will explain the "exclamation point" behavior, including what conditions cause it to blink and not turn off. Many odd things about the 928 will become understandable with this in hand.

jpitman2

Update re the hot post - the later versions are better, as the protective hood screws onto the post, so it wont fall off as easily. You need 92861286801 ('stud' - new hot post), and 92861207301 (plastic cap that screws on to stud).. With battery disconnected, undo the current hot post, slip the loop of the plastic cap onto the big heavy cable (so the cap doesnt get lost when its removed), clean the ring end of the heavy cable and any other ronnections under it, screw the new hot post in. Screw the plastic cap onto the small thread. Done.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Ramp

Petza (anyone) - did you resolve this issue ? Assuming it's not the 14 pin connections and the alternator is charging, what could be causing the volt gauge to jump along with the turn signals and drop when brakes are applied ?

jpitman2

Mine did this flicking with indicators, and temp went up when turning lights on. On the early cars with 3 hood connectors onto the pod the contacts in the hoods are soft and easily bent out of good contact, especially if you have probed them with a meter. IMHO the flicking is caused by a bad earth - there are 3 contacts on the Right hood that provide earth to everything, and if these are poor, you see issues. Bend the contact blades in the hoods with a dental pick type pointy object to increase their pressure on the copper on the mylar ; clean the copper contacts with an eraser and apply Deoxit. This fixed my temp gauge rise, but didnt completely remove voltmeter ticks.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Ramp

Could be pod contacts, just don't know as I don't believe they have ever been touched. I have cleaned all the posts and grounds - with one exception. The front ground above the AC drier is unreachable unless I remove the drier, on the list.

Wisconsin Joe

Voltage drop due to current draw.

It's normal.

Speedtoys

You need to clean all contacts in the meter circuit path and clan all ground AND all CE panel contacts and fuse points.