Oil cooling for GT - what to reinstate
05-23-2018, 08:25 AM
#31
Rennlist Member
Is there a car ferry from Edinburgh to France?
05-23-2018, 08:38 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey Fred
Can't see Brexit happening at this rate. On wag said that whilst they appreciated the coverage in the papers and TV they felt that the rate of Brexit progress was more appropriately logged by commisioning a tapestry.
Scottish Independence - who knows, Nicola keeps coming back with the same thing but then I'm not sure she has any other policy idea than Indyref #2, 3, 4 etc...
Plan is to meet family in the Midlands and drive to ferry Dover/Calais then run the gauntlet with French speed traps...
Bring it on..
D
Can't see Brexit happening at this rate. On wag said that whilst they appreciated the coverage in the papers and TV they felt that the rate of Brexit progress was more appropriately logged by commisioning a tapestry.
Scottish Independence - who knows, Nicola keeps coming back with the same thing but then I'm not sure she has any other policy idea than Indyref #2, 3, 4 etc...
Plan is to meet family in the Midlands and drive to ferry Dover/Calais then run the gauntlet with French speed traps...
Bring it on..
D
05-23-2018, 08:41 AM
#33
Nordschleife Master
I've come to the conclusion that air flow is the main limiting factor in the 928 S4 cooling. Just getting more air flow thru the bumper cover and then forcing it to go thru the heat exchangers instead of around them is the most important thing for cooling, in my opinion.
In my opinion, connecting the external oil cooler in series with the main radiator end-tank heat exchanger makes sense. The order in which the oil flow sees them isn't that critical by my logic.
Bigger and more coolers help a little bit by radiating out more heat, but getting more air flow is in my opinion a higher priority. That all said, my car has two external Setrab coolers, which reflects my view that every bit of additional heat exchanger volume helps for a given air flow.
Since the stock system has two independent thermostats, one for oil and one for engine coolant, temperature control shouldn't be an issue as long as there's enough cooling capacity. At least in the New England cold weather, both thermostats are shut with minimal leakage until the oil is at safe operating temperature.
By my understanding, camshafts wear at either very low or at very high rpms. At low rpms, the velocity at the contact point isn't sufficient to maintain oil film and there's no lofting to offset the spring load at the critical point. At high rpms, valvetrain control may be lost and components bounce. If my logic is correct, relatively high idle rpm and appropriately light components for the selected red line rpm and camshaft profile would help.
Oil probably matters, too, but I don't think it's narrowly in the best interest of this thread for me to start an oil discussion. Never mind, someone mentioned the Brexit... Zinc Zinc Zinc, Mobil One, Amsoil, Torco, 0W100, etc.
Caveat lector, as always.
In my opinion, connecting the external oil cooler in series with the main radiator end-tank heat exchanger makes sense. The order in which the oil flow sees them isn't that critical by my logic.
Bigger and more coolers help a little bit by radiating out more heat, but getting more air flow is in my opinion a higher priority. That all said, my car has two external Setrab coolers, which reflects my view that every bit of additional heat exchanger volume helps for a given air flow.
Since the stock system has two independent thermostats, one for oil and one for engine coolant, temperature control shouldn't be an issue as long as there's enough cooling capacity. At least in the New England cold weather, both thermostats are shut with minimal leakage until the oil is at safe operating temperature.
By my understanding, camshafts wear at either very low or at very high rpms. At low rpms, the velocity at the contact point isn't sufficient to maintain oil film and there's no lofting to offset the spring load at the critical point. At high rpms, valvetrain control may be lost and components bounce. If my logic is correct, relatively high idle rpm and appropriately light components for the selected red line rpm and camshaft profile would help.
Oil probably matters, too, but I don't think it's narrowly in the best interest of this thread for me to start an oil discussion. Never mind, someone mentioned the Brexit... Zinc Zinc Zinc, Mobil One, Amsoil, Torco, 0W100, etc.
Caveat lector, as always.