jej3

Hey Everyone! Not trying to start anything but if you're doing an intake refresh and have your oil-fill neck out, do yourself a favor and get an Authentic Precision Motorwerks Baffle. I bought mine from ebay but I'm sure you can just call them, too.

Greg doesn't need my endorsement but everything about the part seemed great. Fit like a glove and included Dreibond plus the seal for the Oil Filler neck. Shipping was quick and I have loads of peace of mind that a real expert engineered this part (I'm not looking to be a guinea pig for anyone).

TIP: Install the baffle before the Water Bridge.

Looking forward to turning the key after the intake refresh is through and knowing the Precision Motorwerks part is doing what it is supposed to do!

Thanks to Greg and his team for a fine product.

skpyle

Agreed! I have one waiting to go into the Red Witch.

The Forgotten On

I put one in my 81's original engine and it worked very well until the headgaskets went.

It is a huge improvement for the 32V cars because it gives you a proper air/oil separator that the 16V cars had.

It sits right above counterweight #2 after all.

bureau13

I have one as well. I just got my intake and filler tube parts back from the powder coater, and they're in the process of being cleaned (and cleaned, and cleaned...) so once that's done, this is next.

I have the cast fill tube with the stock baffle screen thing...when I took off my tube, the baffle was stuck in the end of the tube. However I thought I read somewhere to install by putting the stock baffle screen into Greg's baffle, then mounting the tube. Is that correct? Or do I fit it back up in the tube first? It may not matter, but the requirement to do this before the water bridge has me, umm, baffled

928NOOBIE

Hi guys

Have a question...doing an intake refresh but not doing the water bridge...it isn't leaking and has a new temp II and I just as soon not touch something that doesn't need any attention...it got new thermostat, rear seal, and new coolant last year.

Any thoughts? It looks like it doesn't want to go in unless I hammer or something ugly...

Thanks.

chart928s4

It won't clear the water bridge. I found out just like you did but at least I wasn't the one who had just installed the water bridge.

928NOOBIE

aargh..you've go to be kidding me. OK dumb question...when the vehicle is stone cold..is the water bridge full of coolant..and if yes..can I drain some of the radiator coolant to remove it out of the water bridge?

chart928s4

Yeah, the look on @worf928 's face was worth a thousand curse words.

You can partially drain the coolant down to below the water bridge. The location is pretty high on the engine so you don't need too much drained. But the water bridge stays pretty wet so be careful of it slopping into the oil filler neck or you will need an oil change also.

worf928

Edward928

Can I see a picture of it...

Michael Benno

Curious what sort of sealing technique you used when you reinstalled the filler neck and baffle.

- Did you use a high temp, oil resistant sealant like Dreibond, , or Yamabond? If so which one?
- Did you use the old style paper gasket in addition to the sealant?
- If you used either of the two, which layer did you put them? Between the block and Greg's baffle, or between the filler neck and Gregs baffle?
- Does the Precision Motorworks baffle use an O-ring between the baffle and block?

I am in the middle of my intake refresh I am curious to know what you did. In my research both Greg and Collin recommend using the paper gasket soaked in sealant under the plastic filler neck to seal any warping of deformations that may have occurred.

The Forgotten On

Use Dreibond between the block and the baffle and then the factory paper gasket between the baffle and the fill neck. Easy peasy. Just pray your water bridge bolts come out

C531XHO

Dumb question maybe but is the baffle only needed on the 32v cars. I am working on my 16v and did see a bit of oil in the inlet housing. Will it cure that?

GregBBRD

Hmmm....

I personally no longer use the paper gasket on any model year, but some people continue to do so.

I always use the stock O-ring with the plastic filler necks.

Drei Bond 1209 between the block and the baffle on all model years. Thin layer...about the thickness of a manila folder.

On engines with metal filler necks, make sure the filler neck is flat and BARE metal (no powder coating or paint ). Use Drei Bond 1209. Same thickness as above.

If you have a 1985/1986 model, re-use the stock flat baffle, on top of my baffle. If you have an earlier model year...find that baffle...or contact me. I'm now making a replacement stock baffle. Use Drei Bond 1209 between each layer....thin layer.

On plastic filler necks, thin layer of Drei Bond 1209 in groove for O-ring. Thin layer on top of O-ring (between O-ring and baffle.) If your filler neck is warped (check before) make this layer a bit thicker....two manilla folders thick.


Regardless of year, have everything ready to assemble, with tools, gaskets, seals, and hardware for filler neck and water crossover ready to go.

Assemble quickly. Ideally, you should be able to "smear" the Drei Bond that squeezes out, before it dries, with your fingertip, leaving a 1/4" wide bead around the outside of all the different layers. (The bead will be paper thin.)

Stock bolts work fine, without paper gasket...also work adequately with one paper gasket. I've never tried two gaskets.

Oil leaks from the filler neck are a common 928 problem. If you do the above, correctly, you will never have a leak, again!

Michael Benno

thanks for the update Greg on the paper gasket and other tips/ I had found an old post where you were recommending the paper. Sounds like you've updated your process.