Oil pan screws - proper tightening torque
05-11-2018, 12:32 AM
#1
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Thread Starter
Oil pan screws - proper tightening torque
I’m soon to inspect the oil leak around the oil pan. I’m assuming it is a decayed gasket, but before I get into that extensive replacement project, I want to make sure that all of the oil pan screws are tightened sufficiently. Can someone please share the correct torque tightening for these?
Thanks.
Thanks.
05-11-2018, 01:28 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Snug 
At least that is what my factory trained 928 tech told me. The torque is so low from the factory that the bolts undid themselves when the cars were new and caused leaks. Snugging them up is what the techs did to fix them.
Just get some blue loctite and tighten them to ~ 10ft/lbs. The loctite will keep them from backing out again but allow replacement in the future.
At least that is what my factory trained 928 tech told me. The torque is so low from the factory that the bolts undid themselves when the cars were new and caused leaks. Snugging them up is what the techs did to fix them.Just get some blue loctite and tighten them to ~ 10ft/lbs. The loctite will keep them from backing out again but allow replacement in the future.
05-11-2018, 11:07 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Torque
Pdf attached is titled "S4, etc. . ." for oil pan BOLTS, it is the same, 5 ft lb. which is pretty synon with "snug" I think.
Search threads here, lots of comments on gaskets, process, while you're in there, etc.
Merch: What's a stud kit?
Search threads here, lots of comments on gaskets, process, while you're in there, etc.
Merch: What's a stud kit?
05-11-2018, 11:19 AM
#5
Merch: What's a stud kit?
read on more than one thread, that this is a better way to attach the oil pan and minimize leaks.
spoke to Roger the other day, and he sells them.
05-11-2018, 11:50 AM
#6
Drifting
Mine’s been bone dry for three years using cork gasket, correct torque and method (tightening in a sort of spiral pattern, and creeping up on the final torque over a few passes of tightening), cleaned up pan and block mating surfaces, cleaned up bolt holes.
I couldnt get my 1/4” torque wrench on a few of the bolts, so just ‘calibrated’ my fingers. 7 or 8 Nm is very modest.
I couldnt get my 1/4” torque wrench on a few of the bolts, so just ‘calibrated’ my fingers. 7 or 8 Nm is very modest.
05-11-2018, 12:49 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
VERY CLEAN surfaces, VERY DRY surfaces, cork, loctite and 10ftLbs...and the cork wont yield like the silicone -could- and it will last another 30+yrs, esp with loctite. If the factory did that, we'd all be on cork still.
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05-11-2018, 12:58 PM
#8
in my many receipts (fortunate!) from PO, shows a dealer replacing my oil pan gasket about 6,000 miles ago
and it leaks, I did my best to remove and clean each bolt, one by one, and Loctite back in place, with correct
tightening and immediately started leaking again
fortunately, my leak is just annoying and very minor, there are no spots or even stain in my garage. just a few of the bolts
may have a droplet of oil attached to a bolt, and I guess when I drive the car, the wind force send them rearward.
still, I want this resolved.
[QUOTEIt is slightly easier to do wrong, and have leaks.][/QUOTE]
please explain, thanks.
and it leaks, I did my best to remove and clean each bolt, one by one, and Loctite back in place, with correct
tightening and immediately started leaking again
fortunately, my leak is just annoying and very minor, there are no spots or even stain in my garage. just a few of the bolts
may have a droplet of oil attached to a bolt, and I guess when I drive the car, the wind force send them rearward.
still, I want this resolved.
[QUOTEIt is slightly easier to do wrong, and have leaks.][/QUOTE]
please explain, thanks.
05-11-2018, 01:34 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I have done it both ways. I prefer cork, Hondabond on both sides of the OPG and loctitied bolts tightened to ~7 ftlbs. I've seen more than one over tightened silicone gaskets with pieces missing.
I have a 928 Motorsport stud kit in my tool box. I like the use of a shoulder version. Have not tried it out yet.
Kevin
I have a 928 Motorsport stud kit in my tool box. I like the use of a shoulder version. Have not tried it out yet.
Kevin
05-11-2018, 02:39 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
in my many receipts (fortunate!) from PO, shows a dealer replacing my oil pan gasket about 6,000 miles ago
and it leaks, I did my best to remove and clean each bolt, one by one, and Loctite back in place, with correct
tightening and immediately started leaking again
fortunately, my leak is just annoying and very minor, there are no spots or even stain in my garage. just a few of the bolts
may have a droplet of oil attached to a bolt, and I guess when I drive the car, the wind force send them rearward.
still, I want this resolved.
[QUOTE[color=#222222]It is slightly easier to do wrong, and have leaks.]
and it leaks, I did my best to remove and clean each bolt, one by one, and Loctite back in place, with correct
tightening and immediately started leaking again
fortunately, my leak is just annoying and very minor, there are no spots or even stain in my garage. just a few of the bolts
may have a droplet of oil attached to a bolt, and I guess when I drive the car, the wind force send them rearward.
still, I want this resolved.
[QUOTE[color=#222222]It is slightly easier to do wrong, and have leaks.]
"shows a dealer replacing my oil pan gasket about 6,000 miles ago"
05-11-2018, 08:46 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
If you go with the orange silicone pan gasket, make sure you read the instructions. The torque value is 25 - 30 INCH - pounds. If you overtighten it, the gasket will split.
That torque is so low that a screwdriver handle with a socket on it can reach it. And my grip isn't all that strong.
The stud kit is pretty nice. It does have pitfalls. Make sure all of the holes are clean and use lock tight. Make sure the long and short studs are in the right holes. Keep in mind that the Nyloc nuts add a bit of torque to the 'tightness'. It's not much, but the correct torque is so low that it becomes a factor.
Personally, I found the stud kit to be better. It makes getting the gasket & pan up and on much easier. I used a jack to lift the pan into place and spun a couple of 'regular' nuts on the corner studs to get it started, then got all the Nylock nuts on, then got them to contact, then torqued them into place. There were a couple that I couldn't get my torque wrench on, and I used a regular wrench and got it 'sorta snug'.
So far, so good.
That torque is so low that a screwdriver handle with a socket on it can reach it. And my grip isn't all that strong.
The stud kit is pretty nice. It does have pitfalls. Make sure all of the holes are clean and use lock tight. Make sure the long and short studs are in the right holes. Keep in mind that the Nyloc nuts add a bit of torque to the 'tightness'. It's not much, but the correct torque is so low that it becomes a factor.
Personally, I found the stud kit to be better. It makes getting the gasket & pan up and on much easier. I used a jack to lift the pan into place and spun a couple of 'regular' nuts on the corner studs to get it started, then got all the Nylock nuts on, then got them to contact, then torqued them into place. There were a couple that I couldn't get my torque wrench on, and I used a regular wrench and got it 'sorta snug'.
So far, so good.
05-11-2018, 11:38 PM
#12
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If only the silicone gasket came in black...that orange/red sticking out, all the way around the pan, just makes me nauseous. Looks like someone attacked the pan gasket with a giant tube of red/orange silicone and a caulking gun. Too....American "shade tree" looking, for me.
I also use cork...I torque to 60 inch pounds....multiple times in a cross pattern, starting from the center.
72 inch pounds seems to "crush" the cork too much.
I also use cork...I torque to 60 inch pounds....multiple times in a cross pattern, starting from the center.
72 inch pounds seems to "crush" the cork too much.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
05-12-2018, 11:03 AM
#13
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I wonder if the silly-cone gasket can be died black...
05-12-2018, 12:13 PM
#14
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Am I the only one who paints his air filter black? That's where I find orange most objectionable, especially against the yellow oil cap.
(I think the studs in Roger's kit are stainless steel...)
(I think the studs in Roger's kit are stainless steel...)
05-12-2018, 01:20 PM
#15
Drifting
Each to his own. Just this morning I was admiring the orange stripe of a nice new filter sandwiched by the air box!