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NOTE this engine was filled with coolant and oil mixed due to a bad cooler tank leak and the oil coolant mixed.
the engine has run for about 600 miles since this issue then the oil pressure dropped to Zero.
at this point here is the plan of attack.
Remove oil thermostat and springs and clean it .
Pull the belt off and remove the oil pump pulley.
inspect for woodruff key being installed,
and then pump removal to verify the outer gear is correctly positioned with the dot facing the block.
then fit new O rings to the pump and a radial seal.
use a generous amount of STP to fill the pump and gears and then fit it to the block.
Remove the oil filter.
use a air ratchet to spin the oil pump see if oil comes out of the oil filter mount.
if so fit new oil filter.
Then run the oil pump again for atleast a minute to verify constant loading of the pump
String the belt and start the engine.
If no or little oil flow then drain the oil and remove the cross member and oil pan to inspect the oil pickup seal to the block.
Replace this and clean the oil pick up,
then reassemble.
then fill with oil,
then spin the pump again to verify oil flow.
Please report your results
I would be more concerned about the intake refresh and powder coat - little glass beads into the engine.
Tom assures me the intake was clean.
Given the sequence of events, that's the first thing I'd suspect and be looking for.....simply because nothing that is done with the intake refresh should have anything to do with oil pressure.
I've got another engine apart, right now, that suffered destruction from glass beads (Van's was the last one we did.) This is the worst one, yet....the beads made it past the oil filter and into the "clean side" of the oiling system. We had to pound the pistons out of the bores (literally, with a hammer)...the damage was that bad! We couldn't remove the wrist pins without pressing them out.
It's really ugly.
The "hard" pieces block, crank, rods, heads, camshafts are all at the machine shop to see what can be saved....it's a GT, so we'd like to be able to salvage the block and the cams.....I don't have much hope for the heads and the crankshaft may not make it.
Tom: Pull the side covers from the intake manifold while it is installed on the car.....see if there are trails of "grit" running down from the built in venturis. It's really obvious if there is grit there....you can run your finger through the trails and feel it. It will also settle into the little "valleys" on the ledge just below the venturis....like tiny sand bars, with oil surrounding them.
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
I will look at that tomorrow.
When the manifold was powder coated it was also done on the inside as well. It look really clean. Blew it all out with air and I didn't see any signs of sand left over from blasting.
I will look at that tomorrow.
When the manifold was powder coated it was also done on the inside as well. It look really clean. Blew it all out with air and I didn't see any signs of sand left over from blasting.
Trust me, it would be fantastic if this isn't the issue....I wouldn't wish this on anyone.
I allow (and bill out) 3 hours to clean a manifold after powder coating. Many times, this is not enough!
Powder coating the inside makes such a mess and is so tough to cleanup afterwards that I absolutely will not allow it.
Almost all powder coaters have a giant tank of chemical paint remover that they "soak" things in, to soften and remove most of the old paint. They will then bead blast the manifold, blow off the big chunks, and powder coat it.
Sounds perfect, right?
Well, the chemical stripper loosens the paint above the veturis just enough to make it sticky. The bead blast debris sticks in this "goo" in huge amounts. Them they powder coat the manifold...and if they do the inside, this "seals" the grit into these areas. A few engine heat cycles later, the "sealant" cracks and breaks loose. The "goo" is now hard and has shrunk down. The grit simply pours down into the intake.
It is so fine, it gets down the valve guides and turns the valve stems into 6.5mm (instead of 7mm) shafts that look.like someone ran them on an 80 grit belt sander. It also goes down into the cylinders. The piston rings will literaly be "sanded" away to nothing. It goes into the oil return holes in the pistons and turns the wrist pins (one of the hardest pieces of metal in the entire engine) into "pigmy" pins. The wear is absolutely incredible.
From there, the abrasive slurry falls to the bottom of the oil pan (with the metal it has removed) and is sucked up by the oil pump
The pump is destroyed and the block where the pump sits against is destroyed. If the volume of "grit" is low enough the filter will stop MOST of it, bit enough will get by to keep the hydraulic lifters from pumping up with oil and they will clatter like crazy.
Oil pressure quickly drops and the "end" occurs pretty quickly.
Like I said...I sincerely hope this is not your problem.
I hate to be a pessimist but the engine not turning in the original post over is reminiscent of TBF. when was the last time you observed the crank end play?
I have never checked the end play.
I have pulled all the plugs and it is really hard to turn the motor over with a long breaker bar. I think this motor is a goner! Not something I'm going to mess with anymore. It's a real shame, so many new parts and all the hours. I'm just not going to pull the engine on this and spend anymore money at it. I have never given up on a car before and I have swapped motors before and done some ruff jobs on BMW's but I'm afraid I don't have the stomach for this one. If someone want to make me a offer or might just part it out. Sad day.
04-25-2018, 07:07 PM
