captainOCD

Currently have most of everything out of the way to change the belt (still need to remove pulleys and lock the engine at 45°).




As you can see there is some wear on the tops of the cam sprocket teeth. None in the valleys of the sprockets.




So I know everyone is going to scream replace them, and I will, but I want to see if this motor is even going to run first. So if I use these sprockets again and don't run the car for super long, will I be ok? I just don't want to spend $800 on sprockets if it turns out the motor won't run or something once I get the belt replaced.





On a side note, according to the kempf tool, the current belt is too tight.



Also, I'm not sure how the belt tension sensor works, but does this one look ok? It looks kind of bent up to me.

FredR

You can reuse the cam sprockets to see if the poor thing runs but it sure looks as though you are in for a barrel full of fun getting to such position. Just remember if it does run you have to go through the whole process again to change the cam sprockets in due course.

When checking the timing belt tension I presume you understand that you have to do this at TDC on No 1 firing stroke. Your photo and the position of the rotor arms suggests you are in the position when the photo was taken

Good luck with the rehab.

captainOCD

It wasn't too mad of a job getting to this point, so I'm not too worried about doing it again in that case. Tension was checked at TDC with no 1 on the compression/power stroke.

After getting this belt done I need to refurb the fuel lines (waiting on materials from Carl to do that), change fluids, and hopefully try and start it. The outside of the car and motor are definitely dirty, but so far all signs are pointing towards the motor being in good shape internally. Turns over fine and has compression. No slop in the crank. All accessories turn. Coolant that came out looks new. Oil is at the right level on the dipstick, so not full of water or anything.

I'm sure everyone is thinking I'm crazy, but I think this thing will run after its 15 year rest.

DR

Hi Matt,

Looks like you have a great grasp on what you need to do, I only have one suggestion, unfortunately I may be a little too late unless you want to back things up a little.

IF, you can get it back to "waterproof" condition, I would take a pressure washer, or engine cleaner etc, to the engine and clean off all of that crap. You gonna want to do it anyway, but if you do it after you put all the shiny new parts on you will end up contaminating those, at least visually . Also there is much less chance of the crud falling into places where you don't want it. One simple little thing is like the dipstick tube being out and the likelihood of the surrounding crud going into the oil pan. Same goes for Cap/Rotors, etc, etc. PLUS, it will make for a slightly more enjoyable work area.

Keep at it, as I said you obviously have a great grasp on what you are doing.

Cheers,

Dave

captainOCD

I actually was thinking about cleaning that up too. Right now I think other than a couple bolts that might go into passages I'm sealed up in the front of the engine. I can pull the distributor caps out of the way and can clean off some of that crud.

captainOCD

Got the vast majority of the grime off the front of the engine.







Cleaned up the timing covers and the fan shroud too.




I'll have to do a better job of cleaning things up by hand as I go, but the pressure washer cleaned up a ton of it. It worked as a good excuse to call it a night too since the ground is all wet now. I think I'm going to have to wire wheel the crank accessory pulley and then paint it. I think I'm gonna have to repaint the timing cover too since the pressure washer took off some of the paint (it must have been peeling already). I'm trying to go by the put it back in better shape than it was taken off rule here.



Dave, I was reading around about the crank pulleys and saw that there might be updated ones with a better coating (anodized vs coated)? Do you have these? Once I figure out if it's running I'll be needing some of those.

DR

Hi Matt,

Looking much better, glad I gave you an excuse to take a break. As you know it is important to pace yourself on a long project like that.

Shouldn't be a problem to get you a nicer pulley. If you can hold off on some of that stuff until Sharks in the Mountains I am going to my storage barn in Canton, NC (just slightly west of Asheville) and I have a pristine 91 S4 Engine there that has lots of shiny parts on it. Due to some internal damage it is now only a parts motor and you can get some nice goodies off of it. Will be there a day or 2 and maybe you can come buy and see what you want. Have lots of goodies there, like new Rotary Asymmetrical Lift, Glass Garage door, 89 GT chassis and some of the parts that go with it, and on, and on and....

Touch base with us on Monday and we will see what you need now.

Have a great weekend,

Dave

gomez123

Lot's of rust look's like a mess. After waiting 5 minutes for the photo' to download.

captainOCD

I don't think waiting until then is much of an issue for me, but it's not looking like I'll be able to make it to that. My youngest brother is graduating from highschool on June 1st in Pittsburgh, so I'll be driving up there the day before most likely and then have some plans to visit my grandparents while they're in from AZ the days right after that. If plans change I'll definitely try and make it to the mountains though.

I've got a list of other parts to get from you. I'll send that in Monday.

captainOCD

The air pump pulley looks easy enough to remove to clean the rust off of at least.

Mrmerlin

for the Kepmf tool best to place the center timing belt cover on then engine,
then slide the tool onto the groove of the belt that it fits on closest to the top of the center timing cover.

NOTE in your picture it looks like you may be a few teeth too close to the right cam gear thus it will increase the belt tension reading ,meaning your belt tension is probably OK.

Keep up the great work.

DeWolf

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-85-95-PORSCHE-928-TIMING-CAM-CAMSHAFT-GEAR-PULLEY-SPROCKET-HIGH-QUALITY-PAIR/292076770249?hash=item440121d3c9:g:OjcAAOSwTM5Y5AtQ

captainOCD

So maybe those are the anodized sprockets I saw mentioned. Anyone here running them?

captainOCD

This brass or copper strip that seems to be part of the tensioner sensor looks a bit worse for wear. I don't know how the tension sensor works so I don't know if this one is going to work or not. Any thoughts?

jcorenman

Change it. It was replaced by a wire jumper, see this post: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post14958495