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Good stuff Seth (and Jeff!) Ordered for the toolbox, so much better than using my favorite jeweler's screwdriver.
I very much agree, Martin! I have taken apart many of a connector using a jewler's screwdriver. I wish I had found these keys earlier.
Jeff's illustration is excellent! Very well illustrates how it all works.
Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Great write-up.
Thanks,
Dave
Dave, you are quite welcome!
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Thanks Seth K. Pyle I ordered 2 sets of these tools, great pictures and description and it took lots of your time to put this together,
thanks again
Stan, you are very much welcome! I am glad to have been a help. Yes, it did take a few hours to put this together, but judging by the response, well worth it. I am now back to putting the B3 clutches and front pump back in the A28.07 transmission for the Red Witch.
Originally Posted by x98boardwell
Great write up and great deal. Just ordered a set as well! Thank you for taking the time with all the photos as well!
You are very welcome! I am trying to give back to the forum. It has been a GREAT help to me in dealing with the Red Witch.
I could tell you, but I would then have to send the zombies after you.
If it makes you feel any better, I am making an absolute mess of reinstalling the B1 brake band and K1 clutch drum in the A28.07 automatic right now...
I agree completely on your assessment of the terminals supplied with the Bosch connectors (the ones you called "New" style), without the extra spring they are not reliable and will leave you stranded. Springs and electrical contacts have different requirements, and are best made from different metals.
However the OEM-style (with the separate spring) are readily available from --- wait for it -- Porsche. Highly recommended.
I agree completely on your assessment of the terminals supplied with the Bosch connectors (the ones you called "New" style), without the extra spring they are not reliable and will leave you stranded. Springs and electrical contacts have different requirements, and are best made from different metals.
However the OEM-style (with the separate spring) are readily available from --- wait for it -- Porsche. Highly recommended.
This may be helpful:
Cheers,
WHooHOOOOO!!!
DING DING DING!!!
Jim, thank you! That makes me feel much better. I will add those to my next order. Very good to have on hand. As well, I will edit my original post with this information.
This, gentlemen, is how you do it! One person posts an idea, and everyone else chimes in with additional information that makes it better. Damned glad to be part of this forum.
Thanks, Seth. I think we'll all be fussing more and more with the damn wires in our cars.
Originally Posted by jcorenman
... Springs and electrical contacts have different requirements, and are best made from different metals. ...
Long ago, I came perilously close to working for Brush-Wellman, producer of beryllium alloys in Cleveland. During the interview, I learned all about berylliosis, but also about their biggest product: so-called beryllium copper, which has just a little Be in it to make it age-hardenable but retain the conductivity of copper (unlike, say, adding lots of zinc to make brass). Not considered dangerous. I just read that it makes a good seat for titanium valves, but its main use is for springy electrical contacts.
Excellent write yp Seth - another keeper! Thanks for continuing to move the knowledge pool further!
Hacker - this should be copied in the 928 DIY section too!
Thanks, Ed! I am trying to be a reliable source of information for this community. Not for the sake of, but just relaying what I have done, learned, and screwed up.
Originally Posted by Adk46
Thanks, Seth. I think we'll all be fussing more and more with the damn wires in our cars.
Long ago, I came perilously close to working for Brush-Wellman, producer of beryllium alloys in Cleveland. During the interview, I learned all about berylliosis, but also about their biggest product: so-called beryllium copper, which has just a little Be in it to make it age-hardenable but retain the conductivity of copper (unlike, say, adding lots of zinc to make brass). Not considered dangerous. I just read that it makes a good seat for titanium valves, but its main use is for springy electrical contacts.
You are quite welcome, Curt! I very much agree, wiring will be a bigger and bigger problem as time marches on. The fuel injection harness in particular will become the deciding factor on whether your 928 runs or not.
Because I am a 'Curious George', I googled "berylliosis". YIKES!
I must respectfully disagree with you on a point, though. I am led to believe the adhesive lined heat shrink is OEM from Porsche for the 928, or whomever they subcontracted the harnesses too. Every connector under the hood of my 928 had this on it. I have spoken to, and read posts from other 928'ers who have found the same thing. I don't know how much this matters, but my 1986.5 has LH-Jet instead of L-Jet.
Seth, thanks for the follow-up. No L-Jet harness I have ever seen (in hundreds that I have disassembled and built) has had this adhesive shrinkwrap under the boot and I have verified the condition on my 1981 928 which has its original harness and does not have it either. It does not hurt to have it I suppose, but I cannot understand any substantive benefit that it provides and as you learned - what a pain to remove to redo the wire terminals! I wonder if the shrink wrap was a later model 928 thing and if so, at what point did the change occur that they started doing this? L-Jet, LH-Jet up through todays FI Bosch-based FI systems, these FI harness hardware parts are mostly interchangeable and pretty much universal in all engine FI systems these days because they are proven reliable for connectivity. Hondas, Toyotas...everyone uses this hardware type nowadays.
Jeffs correct. All of the pre-85 harnesses I have here are clear of that. On the post 85 harnesses they have that crap. It's not really a heat shrink as its more of a hardened goo that they filled all the connectors with.
04-10-2018, 06:52 PM
