Z plug
#1
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Z plug
Where is the Z plug in the CE panel, or is it behind it? A picture would be awesome too!!!!!
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Team Owner
you dont have a Z plug it was dropped off the program after MY1984
From Landseer
Whoa, stop.
First of all, for CE panels up thru and including 84, characterized further by having cylindrical fuses, the Y and Z plugs are located out of sequence from the alpha progression. Y and Z are short, having 6 electrodes instead of 8, and are located in the center of the panel, not at the right side. 83 and before are bridged Z1 to Z6. 84 is bridged Z1 to Z4. Bridge wrongly and you will likely immediately see sparks and start melting wires. Make sure you know what you are doing, ie, terminal labeling verified, beforehand.
For 85 and up, with the modern flat fuses, nothing in this thread applies. Totally different. The alarm interfaces with the CE panel in a different place entirely. Best way to bridge alarm is via a flat 8 electrode plug that is tucked somewhere behind the CE panel. There are a few ways to make the bridge. Safest way is actually cut and splice the correct wires. Instead, the connector can be unplugged and a bridge inserted into the plug on the CE panel side of the circuit. That is tricky because its hard to find a bridge wire that can be stuck into the plug and stay there.
From Landseer
Whoa, stop.
First of all, for CE panels up thru and including 84, characterized further by having cylindrical fuses, the Y and Z plugs are located out of sequence from the alpha progression. Y and Z are short, having 6 electrodes instead of 8, and are located in the center of the panel, not at the right side. 83 and before are bridged Z1 to Z6. 84 is bridged Z1 to Z4. Bridge wrongly and you will likely immediately see sparks and start melting wires. Make sure you know what you are doing, ie, terminal labeling verified, beforehand.
For 85 and up, with the modern flat fuses, nothing in this thread applies. Totally different. The alarm interfaces with the CE panel in a different place entirely. Best way to bridge alarm is via a flat 8 electrode plug that is tucked somewhere behind the CE panel. There are a few ways to make the bridge. Safest way is actually cut and splice the correct wires. Instead, the connector can be unplugged and a bridge inserted into the plug on the CE panel side of the circuit. That is tricky because its hard to find a bridge wire that can be stuck into the plug and stay there.
#4
Rennlist Member
Joe,
You must be having an alarm problem, right? (hence the question) What kind of problem are you having? There may be another workaround once we know the nature of the problem.
You must be having an alarm problem, right? (hence the question) What kind of problem are you having? There may be another workaround once we know the nature of the problem.
#5
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Car will run fine, then just quit, won't restart. Let it sit for a while , and it'll restart, then go thru the same scenario all over again. All the usual suspects, are new, just replaced. I did a search, and the symptoms my car is displaying fit the alarm scenario. Once the alarm is bypassed, if the symptoms persist, that wasn't it. Easy enough to hook back up. Thanks John, tell Rhonda, I said "Hi!"
#6
Here's the bypass on the alarm plug Joe, great talking to ya today.
#7
Rennlist Member
Car will run fine, then just quit, won't restart. Let it sit for a while , and it'll restart, then go thru the same scenario all over again. All the usual suspects, are new, just replaced. I did a search, and the symptoms my car is displaying fit the alarm scenario. Once the alarm is bypassed, if the symptoms persist, that wasn't it. Easy enough to hook back up. Thanks John, tell Rhonda, I said "Hi!"
When I first got my 89, it would do the same damn thing. Driving along, feeling good about the world and the damn thing would just die and not restart. I went through EVERYTHING. It ended up being the main engine ground under the car on the passenger side. I removed it, cleaned it, tested continuity, cleaned the mount points, reinstalled it and never had trouble again. I will still never understand how a #0 braided cable attached to both the engine and the frame/body with bolts had an intermittent connection, but it did. Cheap and easy instructions/fix but YMMV.
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#8
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
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Thread Starter
Joe, I'll even kiss her for you!!
When I first got my 89, it would do the same damn thing. Driving along, feeling good about the world and the damn thing would just die and not restart. I went through EVERYTHING. It ended up being the main engine ground under the car on the passenger side. I removed it, cleaned it, tested continuity, cleaned the mount points, reinstalled it and never had trouble again. I will still never understand how a #0 braided cable attached to both the engine and the frame/body with bolts had an intermittent connection, but it did. Cheap and easy instructions/fix but YMMV.
When I first got my 89, it would do the same damn thing. Driving along, feeling good about the world and the damn thing would just die and not restart. I went through EVERYTHING. It ended up being the main engine ground under the car on the passenger side. I removed it, cleaned it, tested continuity, cleaned the mount points, reinstalled it and never had trouble again. I will still never understand how a #0 braided cable attached to both the engine and the frame/body with bolts had an intermittent connection, but it did. Cheap and easy instructions/fix but YMMV.
I do appreciate the suggestion! The old bitch, fired right up today, like nothing happened. WTF?
#9
Rennlist Member
Mine would do the same damn thing! Run like a bat when it ran, then just die and not restart at the most inopportune times.
I swear that electricity and automatic transmissions are magic.
Give Dee a big hug from Rhonda and I!!
I swear that electricity and automatic transmissions are magic.
Give Dee a big hug from Rhonda and I!!
#10
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#11
Burning Brakes
You say all the usual suspects have been addressed...
Does that include the crank position sensor? My '89 exhibited similar symptoms.
New CPS cured it (actually, it was the disintegrated connector for the CPS that was causing the problem).
Does that include the crank position sensor? My '89 exhibited similar symptoms.
New CPS cured it (actually, it was the disintegrated connector for the CPS that was causing the problem).
#12
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
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Thread Starter
If that don't cure it, I got a can of gas, and a box of matches. Just kidding.