How do you remove REALLY stuck-on WP gasket?
 

Permatex gasket remover, and a plastic scraper. It might take a few applications. Hopefully you can get the good stuff, i heard that it was being phased out in the US.

+1

That's what I used.

Thanks guys, I'll give Permatex a go. I see CRC also makes a gasket remover (acetone based) so I'll try that if Permatex doesn't get it. I've never had one this bad before - I'm seriously re-thinking about putting the new one on dry.

Razor blade,carb cleaner, wire brush in that order.

hold the blade perpendicular to the surface, https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...80973642fb.jpg

PTFE bolt sealant and some blue silicone for both sides of the gasket, the gasket will come off in one piece and the silicone and PTFE will keep the bolts from corroding

Thanks, Stan, et al. I'm sure I'll use the blue RTV when I put the new one on. To say this is frustrating would be an understatement. The only silver lining is I'm doing it rather than paying a mechanic $100+ an hour to pick away at this. It's weird that none of it stuck to the WP - it's all on the block.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0efb441ab9.jpg

That could be a picture of mine that I took apart this weekend. No gasket on the pump, stuck very well to the block. I haven't started the removal process yet so I am looking for any pointers I can find.

I too found that gasket remover product to be almost worthless. It sure smelled like it would work based on the volatile aromatic compounds going into my lungs. Just tossed it and used a razor as described, being very patient and going slow.

Hi Roger - It took about 3 hours to get it off and cleaned up. The perpendicular razor blade and carb cleaner (1 & 1/2 cans) worked best. Once the top layer is scraped off, the paper absorbs the carb cleaner and then it started coming off easier. I then did final light cleanup with a scotch bright soaked with carb cleaner.

I'm pretty sure any business that rushes their work would have said "screw this" and grabbed a gasket scraper and used RTV to fill the gouges. God knows it crossed my mind. A lot. Like every couple minutes.

There were no short cuts for me when I replaced the original water pump.

Lots of patient scraping with a razor blade while being careful to not gouge the block.

​​​​​​Break the job up over several days, that way you won't lose patience.

I may catch flack for this but this is what I used. It is made by 3M and I did not find that it removed much material other than the gasket..https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...30090d90b4.jpg

For reassembly, if you decide that you -MUST- use something, consider one of the non-hardening sealers like Hylomar, or maybe Hondabond or the Porsche equivalent Driebond on any non-smooth sealing face. Otherwise a thin film of silicone grease or even spray may be all you need. Anti-seize is also a [messy] option.

FWIW, I've been putting factory Porsche gaskets on clean and dry to the original unsanded/unscraped block flange, and they peel off easily when it's time. No leaks or other problems. Our vendors usually know to ship a Porsche gasket instead of the one that comes in the pump box. Verify when you buy a pump. Use the mini torque-limiting wrench (84 lbs/inch) with new anti-seized bolts and you'll be golden.

Used a 1/4" angle grinder with fine grade surface preparation disc at very slow speed. Took about 5min and sealed with ThreeBond from Nissan. Works like a champ and no leaks.

I would call a dry ice blaster and let them remove it. It will come off and not harm the surface at all. I own one of these machines and use it all the time at my shop on tight tolerance surfaces.