TIMING CAM GEARS 45 DEGREES HELP
#1
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TIMING CAM GEARS 45 DEGREES HELP
The Engine is a 32v 5.0L 86
Please see the picture and let me know if the next step is to turn the cams clockwise until I get to TDC mark
and then turn the crank to O/T and install my timing belt. In the online video on youtube from the factory and the WSM it looks like I should be closer to the TDC mark.
My cams are in the correct bank with chain marks lined up with triangles on the cams. I have the appropriate timing cutout tools on both cylinders 1 and 5.
Thanks to all for any help you can provide.
Please see the picture and let me know if the next step is to turn the cams clockwise until I get to TDC mark
and then turn the crank to O/T and install my timing belt. In the online video on youtube from the factory and the WSM it looks like I should be closer to the TDC mark.
My cams are in the correct bank with chain marks lined up with triangles on the cams. I have the appropriate timing cutout tools on both cylinders 1 and 5.
Thanks to all for any help you can provide.
Last edited by Ryan Thompson; 03-09-2018 at 02:33 PM. Reason: picture in the middle of text
#2
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With an interference engine you cannot turn the crank independent of the cams. The cam indexing tool exists to index the inlet cam to the exhaust cam relative to the cam chain. When mounted with the crank locked at 45 degrees you can then rotate the cams safely to the correct timing position. Thus if the cams have been indexed the index tool can now be discarded.
The aim now is to position the cams so that the TDC mark is 3 teeth before the index mark on the casing. Each cam tooth is worth 7.5 cam degrees or 15 crank degrees thus 3 teeth equals 45 crank degrees. The belt is thus strung from this position and when you have done this and taken up some of the belt tension, you can then forward the engine to TDC and the index marks on the cam should align with the notches on the casing. The belt tension is to be set with No1 cylinder at TDC on its firing stroke. From this position you can then do the precise cam timing either with a dial gauge or possibly the 32VR tool.
If by any chance you get the belt installed 1 tooth out you simply return the engine to 45 BTDC and repeat the process but do not try to correct the setting at TDC..
The aim now is to position the cams so that the TDC mark is 3 teeth before the index mark on the casing. Each cam tooth is worth 7.5 cam degrees or 15 crank degrees thus 3 teeth equals 45 crank degrees. The belt is thus strung from this position and when you have done this and taken up some of the belt tension, you can then forward the engine to TDC and the index marks on the cam should align with the notches on the casing. The belt tension is to be set with No1 cylinder at TDC on its firing stroke. From this position you can then do the precise cam timing either with a dial gauge or possibly the 32VR tool.
If by any chance you get the belt installed 1 tooth out you simply return the engine to 45 BTDC and repeat the process but do not try to correct the setting at TDC..
#3
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Wow, this is EXACTLEY what I needed. Thank you!
I do have a Porken Tensioner installed, and if I understand correctly, I don't need to worry about tentioning. Pull the pin and wait for it to extend/tighten and done.
I do have a Porken Tensioner installed, and if I understand correctly, I don't need to worry about tentioning. Pull the pin and wait for it to extend/tighten and done.
#4
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If you have a PKT then I suspect you will have the 32VR tool and possibly the PK Bumpstick- if you do not have them just get them and be done with it- makes cam timing child's play..
Also remember when moving the cam train move them using the large hex washer not the sprocket bolt. I always move the cam train clockwise when viewed from the front but as I understand you can move them either way no problem. What you do not do is move the entire engine backwards with the belt strung.
Hopefully some other kind soul will verify my comments [or correct them as necessary]. As long as you work from the 45 BTDC position you cannot really go wrong unless you do something truly stupid. If you are a tooth out it will do no harm- just go back to 45 BTDC and adjust. Some folks play around with cam tooth adjustment at TDC on the interference motors but personally I think that is tempting fate and just plain dumb..
#5
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Yes pull the pin then put some positive pressure on the PKTensioner (stretching the belt) then rotate the crank several times by hand for it to find it's happy place, and end up (stopping) at TDC and recheck your marks.
I string the belt and gears at the 45 mark, then final setting at 0 TDC after several rotations by hand, always Clockwise (as one would tighten the crank bolt), as Fred stated do it all at 45 and little to no risk.
Some say to spin w/ the starter to seat the belt, I've never used the starter.
Dave K
I string the belt and gears at the 45 mark, then final setting at 0 TDC after several rotations by hand, always Clockwise (as one would tighten the crank bolt), as Fred stated do it all at 45 and little to no risk.
Some say to spin w/ the starter to seat the belt, I've never used the starter.
Dave K