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The last two parts i need to clean before i can start the real work on the engine is the cleaning of both engine heads. Worked on V1 with brake cleaner, gasket cleaner and a plastic tool. Top end worked out great, but @#$%#@#^ its a lot of work.
The end facing the engine is quite a challenge....The dark looks and feels like its in the metal, i constantly have to stop myself of using scotch brite pads But seriously: it feels like i am almost digging into the aluminium whats better a collor or a taking away material?
What do you think, should i just continue and have more patience, is this about clean enough? And what about the dent i run into i am a bit worried is that a showstopper? Thanks again,
Take a razor blade and hold the edge perpendicular to the cylinder head surface. Use the razor blade to scrape the surface clean. Do NOT try to use the razor to "shave" the debris off as you will gouge up the aluminum.
to answer your question those are nowhere near being ready for a new gasket.
take your heads to a machinist to get "decked" and spend your cleaning time on the block surface.
use the perpendicular razor to get the big stuff off, then use green scotch brite dry to get the medium stuff off, very light hand pressure.
then put some oil on some green scotch brite and use it to sort of "finely clean" the surface, it will start to look like you're in the middle of polishing it (takes the big scratches out).
wipe oil away with clean rag, then use acetone on another rag to degrease/fully clean the surface to prepare for new gasket.
If it were my engine, those valves all need to come out before wasting time cleaning anything as new valve seals and valve lapping are a must do if the heads are off an old engine.
A shop will most likely charge about 200 to 300 per head to do it on a 16v a bit more for 32v and depending if new guides are required, but it will be ready to install all nice and pretty.
If you are stuck on DYI, than: Remove the valves and seals, clean all parts of carbon, scrape the heads w/ a clean new large razor blade as described above by Mike, clean then lap the valves, re-clean head and valves to remove Lapping paste, fit new seals.
If you never Lapped a valve use YouTube and watch some vids
Use a valve condom(s) when reinstalling the valves through the New seals.
It will take a few hrs per head, more if you never done one., but clean, clean, clean before installation.
I don't think that is a dent, instead it looks like corrosion, so your new head gasket may not seal in that area. Get both heads surfaced or decked and go from there. The machine shop will do all the cleaning before they start any work. I agree about the valves too. Whether you DYI or send it to a machine shop is up to you.
that corrosion isn't that bad, I've seen much worse.......the heads that were on the Estate engine had made new cooling passages!!!!! Most of the headgasket was gone...only the fire ring was solid
+1 on what everyone else has said. Figure that the heads will be installed for years (for either you hopefully or ANOther to enjoy) so the logical thing is to strip them. My 16v heads are 88k miles old, some corrosion outside the clamped areas but could have probably cleaned and put back as is. Instead I had a local shop in the UK strip them, check vales - OK, clean with emery in a lathe, change the guides, recut the seats, clean the head casting ultrasonically, skim and reassemble with new seals, approx. £750. Cheap for piece of mind...
03-08-2018, 05:34 PM
Cleaning the cilinder heads - bit worried
But seriously: it feels like i am almost digging into the aluminium whats better a collor or a taking away material?
