Question re: hard "rubberized" coating on interior floor panel
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Question re: hard "rubberized" coating on interior floor panel
I'm in the process of swapping in late-model seats to my '84 and noticed on the driver's side the "hard rubber-like coating" on the floor panel beneath the seat has crumbled and lifted in a small patch (maybe 7-inches X 6 inches). The rest of it seems to be solidly adhered to the floor with no evidence of crumbling ot lifting.
Any opinion whether I should coat this area with anything (undercoating? metal conditioner/preservative? some other type of brush on coating?) or just leave it? I'm guessing it was intended to provide sound insulation but not sure.
Any opinion whether I should coat this area with anything (undercoating? metal conditioner/preservative? some other type of brush on coating?) or just leave it? I'm guessing it was intended to provide sound insulation but not sure.
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Floor insulation typically cracks where the floor is dented from a misplaced jack or lift etc. I left mine as it was as I don't think there is a suitable replacement that will look the part
#4
More important is the function of this material, rather than any appearance. Nobody is going to be
looking under your seats and carpets
I have always had good results with Dynamat products for sound deadening and heat resistance.
http://www.dynamat.com/
looking under your seats and carpets
I have always had good results with Dynamat products for sound deadening and heat resistance.
http://www.dynamat.com/
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks.
#6
The gold standard in the old days was POR, single stage, brush on, usually advertised in Hemmings. Excellent product. I recently tried a two can combo from VHT,
first a clear rust converter followed by black epoxy. I like it a lot. That said, there are a lot of new products being offered now that could be as good or better.
I'll go with VHT again on the underparts of a late model car. Stay away from rubberized products/bedliner goop. They hold in moisture once the barrier is breeched.
first a clear rust converter followed by black epoxy. I like it a lot. That said, there are a lot of new products being offered now that could be as good or better.
I'll go with VHT again on the underparts of a late model car. Stay away from rubberized products/bedliner goop. They hold in moisture once the barrier is breeched.
#7
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#8
Drifting
Hans recommended this to me years ago and it made a huge difference... of course, I did all the floors, firewall (as best I could), B pillar, and hatch area.
http://www.raamaudio.com/
I doubled down on the torque tube hump not only hushed noise but also reduced heat influx significantly.
http://www.raamaudio.com/
I doubled down on the torque tube hump not only hushed noise but also reduced heat influx significantly.