Steering rack woes
#1
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Thread Starter
Steering rack woes
I'm in the process of installing a new rack in my 81. All is good except I cannot get the steering U-joint to line up. I took it completely out and tried to pry it open a bit. Got it back on to the shaft but I can't get it to slide over the spline in the rack. Also the power steering lines don't exactly line up and I'm afraid of cross threading by forcing it. I'm going to pull it out again and start over. Any suggestions for the knuckle? I'm the knuckle head
#2
Under the Lift
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Hi Van:
Take a close look at the splines inside the joint and on the rack shaft, clean them up and make sure the ends of the splines are not damaged. A little filing with a fine file may get rid of burrs and other irregularities preventing it from sliding on. Also, it can be very difficult to get the joint to align with the shaft if the rack is already bolted in. There just isn't (nor should be) much flexibility in the steering shaft. So, I usually slip the joint on the rack before it is bolted into place. A bit of a juggling act. Finally, since the steering wheel end of the steering shaft is splined half as fine as the rack end, you can end up off a spline and will be unable to center the steering wheel with the rack centered. Some people correct this by adjusting the tie rods unequally, but this ends up with the rack off-center. So, with the rack installed and centered, check the steering wheel. If it is off-center, remove the steering wheel and try to recenter it. If it cannot be centered, then you need to go back and move the rack end joint over one spline tooth.
Also, you may have to temporarily loosen the brackets holding the PS lines to the inner fender to give you some flexibility to line up the connections on the rack.
I'm available this week to help out.
Take a close look at the splines inside the joint and on the rack shaft, clean them up and make sure the ends of the splines are not damaged. A little filing with a fine file may get rid of burrs and other irregularities preventing it from sliding on. Also, it can be very difficult to get the joint to align with the shaft if the rack is already bolted in. There just isn't (nor should be) much flexibility in the steering shaft. So, I usually slip the joint on the rack before it is bolted into place. A bit of a juggling act. Finally, since the steering wheel end of the steering shaft is splined half as fine as the rack end, you can end up off a spline and will be unable to center the steering wheel with the rack centered. Some people correct this by adjusting the tie rods unequally, but this ends up with the rack off-center. So, with the rack installed and centered, check the steering wheel. If it is off-center, remove the steering wheel and try to recenter it. If it cannot be centered, then you need to go back and move the rack end joint over one spline tooth.
Also, you may have to temporarily loosen the brackets holding the PS lines to the inner fender to give you some flexibility to line up the connections on the rack.
I'm available this week to help out.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Bill, Good to have you around, missed you. I will take your advice and re file the spines. First I will pull the rack out again and start over. If I get into a pickle I'll give you a shout. Remember it's a 3 hour job for most. I can easily make it into a 30 hour job....trade secret
#5
Under the Lift
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Wayne reminded me there is a flat on the steering rack shaft to guide installation position, but in my experience you can be off at least a spline in either direction and the bolt will still go through the u-joint. So, sometimes you have to do trial and error.
#6
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Thread Starter
Today I am going to pull it out and work over the splines and test fit. I have an extra knuckle, as I have beaten the crap out of the first one. Also do the power steering connections have crush washers on both sides?
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
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The lines do have seal washers both sides. Smear a little Teflon thread sealing paste (home depot plumbing supply item) on the washer faces before you assemble, and they are more likely to seal with less chance of galling/wiping as you draw them snug. Hylomar is a second choice.
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#8
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Hi
Had a similar issue doing mine and battled it for 2 days with much frustration. Released the ignition steering lock and it was on in 2 minutes.
Hope that helps, its all I've got.
If I solve your problem do I get to drive your car?
Had a similar issue doing mine and battled it for 2 days with much frustration. Released the ignition steering lock and it was on in 2 minutes.
Hope that helps, its all I've got.
If I solve your problem do I get to drive your car?
#9
Rennlist Member
When I replaced the rack on the Stepson many moon ago, when I installed the new rack, it slid into place on the very first try and I started bolting it up. I then decided that something was wrong, it wasn't lined up right, this was too easy, it just couldn't go this well. I unbolted the rack and removed it to verify that all was as should be. It was. It took me the rest of that day and part of the next day to get the darn thing back on in the same position it had originally taken me 5 minutes to do the first time.
As Bill says, "Sometimes its easy. Sometimes its a bear"
As Bill says, "Sometimes its easy. Sometimes its a bear"
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The biggest issue has been the spline connecting to the new rack. I took it out again and took the (knuckle, aka spline) out as well. Now making sure it will slide on when on the bench. At least now I know it will go on. Now to try it again.
#14
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I spent some more time working the knuckle and it's starting to work with me. Now my focus is getting ready to drive to Tucson so it will have to wait for my return. Thanks Frank for the offer, I might take you up on it. It's one thing to get it on when it's on the bench, different ball game when it's in the car.